- audio buzzing after PC is turned off - 4 Updates
- Rewiring an antique Torchiere lamp. - 15 Updates
- KVM power - 1 Update
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 16 09:59PM -0700 >Velcom bag Yeff! >RL Hopefully, you don't talk like that. Thanks. The only problem is that I didn't go anywhere. I spent much of my spare time in rec.bicycles.tech discussing arguing except bicycles and technology. I recently decided that a change would be nice and tried to answer a few questions in other groups. So far, I haven't lost my ability to mangle my answers, which I demonstrates that I haven't completely degenerated. Around October 2020, I closed the office and moved everything to my house. I'm now living in a cardboard box jungle. I'm still doing computah repairs working out of my Subaru. It's an interesting experience driving around in a nearly empty car, and having to carry everything I might need for a service call down 50 stairs, throw the boxes into the Subaru, do the rap air, haul the stuff back up the 50 stairs, and replace the contents to their former hiding places. I should probably retire, this time for real. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 17 06:56AM -0400 On Wed, 16 Jun 2021 21:59:44 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >stairs, throw the boxes into the Subaru, do the rap air, haul the >stuff back up the 50 stairs, and replace the contents to their former >hiding places. I should probably retire, this time for real. I figure my 'retirement' costs about $10K a year - to keep working and house 500sq feet of lab and storage. Under-achievment at it's finest. Seeing as any kind of potentially humorous attempt at dialect is considerd as cultural theft, I'b develobing by owd web slang, widg iz basigly stuufed node togging. RL |
| Wond <lost@the.ether.net>: Jun 17 04:09PM On Wed, 16 Jun 2021 21:59:44 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > boxes into the Subaru, do the rap air, haul the stuff back up the 50 > stairs, and replace the contents to their former hiding places. I > should probably retire, this time for real. Just wait 'til you forget what stuff is in which box! |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 17 09:36AM -0700 >considerd as cultural theft, I'b develobing by owd web slang, widg >iz basigly stuufed node togging. >RL Have you considered learning Newspeak, Speedtalk or Klingon, instead? <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newspeak> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speedtalk> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klingon_language> There are also a large number of dead languages which were popular in their day. They could be modernized (like Hebrew). However, web slang seems to have a rather short lifetime. Idioms and phrases that were popular when I was learning computers have all but disappeared, to be replaced by incomprehensible gibberish of unknown origin, similar to what you're proposing. Also, your proposed web slang language is lacking a key component required for any technical discussion. It lacks acronyms, which are the foundation of today's technobabble. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 16 09:51AM -0700 OK - a bit more complicated, then. First piece of advice would be to lose the extra socket and lamp at the bottom of the fixture. However, if you must use it (and there is no really safe way to do so), I suggest that you get some epoxy putty and fill in the gnawed area at the base (duplicate the grooves if you wish), smooth out the socket (looks like cardboard?) and then use brass paint or some such to make it look 'of a piece'. Either way, you can fill in the gnawed area and duplicate the grooves even if you lose the socket. Then you need to separate your wiring efforts into two categories: That which is pretty - from the wall socket to the lamp base, and that which is utilitarian. The pretty wire should be the cloth-covered wire of you choice such as (From Amazon): https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81UjoxggqPL._AC_SL1500_.jpg The other wire (also listed, and from Amazon): https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71CqHJCmX4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg could be this stuff, good for 600V. and which will allow will allow you to color-code if you wish. Going back down to the lower socket (again, not recommended), you could twist a pair from this same kit. When I do this kind of work (we are on our third pre-1900 house), I use ball-chain for fishing, and I tend to use heat-shrink tubing over the wire-nuts to make sure there is no change of them coming loose. I will also tin the leads that connect to the various sockets so that there are no stray strands. Best of luck with it! Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 10:35AM -0700 On 6/16/2021 9:51 AM, Peter W. wrote: > Best of luck with it! > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Hi Peter, I would definitely like to lose that socket at the bottom of the fixture but when I asked the owner about that possibility, I was told that was the specific reason the lamp was purchased. I'm going to play it safe here and tell him that no matter how pretty it looks, it's not safe. Period. Regarding this Amazon link: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71CqHJCmX4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg I see the image but I cannot find the webpage that links to that product. Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 16 10:45AM -0700 https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-different-Insulated-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07G2GLKMP/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=UL+listed+hook-up+wire&qid=1623865445&sr=8-18 FYI |
| David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 11:46AM -0700 On 6/16/2021 10:45 AM, Peter W. wrote: > https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-different-Insulated-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07G2GLKMP/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=UL+listed+hook-up+wire&qid=1623865445&sr=8-18 > FYI Very nice. Thank you! -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Jun 16 04:22PM -0400 On 6/16/2021 4:34 AM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA Very nice! I have almost the same one in use in my front room daily. It's on a switched outlet. It uses the larger mogul base bulb in the center, I eventually put an adapter in to use a standard medium base bulb. I'll be sure to follow this, because the original wire cored is cracked up and rotten... I honestly shouldn't still have it plugged in as is. |
| Arie de Muynck <noreply@ademu.com>: Jun 16 10:59PM +0200 On 2021-06-16 18:51, Peter W. wrote: > When I do this kind of work (we are on our third pre-1900 house), I use ball-chain for fishing, and I tend to use heat-shrink tubing over the wire-nuts to make sure there is no change of them coming loose. I will also tin the leads that connect to the various sockets so that there are no stray strands. Do NOT tin the leads. The tin will flow under pressure, making the contact unreliable. A perfect starter for sparking and fire... Arie |
| "Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Jun 16 02:16PM -0700 I have a couple of 1950's lamps in use. They only have the center mogal-based bulb and they are still availabe at the hardware store down the street. It has the modern zip cord, but a non-polarized plug. Generally, the stuff used is 18 AWG appliance wire. Teflon insulated insn;t generally used, but probably could be. My "Plans" are to convert this lamp to a dimmable 6000 lumen mogal base LED lamp and be able to convert back by changing the external "pigtail" that will use a CPC connector. This currently gets way too much use as it illuminates a hospital bed. Currently, there is a 300W Credenza dimmer with a "LOCATOR" LED on it. That LED follows the lamp intensity inversely. I have obtained the bulb, a mogal base extender, the dimming module (sold with the bulb) and a bunch of other stuff. The credensa dimmer consists of a triac dimmer circuit, a LED, a slide pot and a switch. It will be canibalized such that the potentiometer exits with one wire through the switch. The other 3 leads will go to 3 pin bi-color LED. The potentiometer will got to a PR Electronics module where I will use the alarm setpoints to turn on power to the dimmer. I need to get the right signals out. the 0-10V output has very little current output. and I have to dim the LED reverse acting The initial design will use one color. With an add-on option the PR module can be controlled with RS-485, thus the potential use of the other color and the "potential" for home automation. Maybe, something like use another color when the lamp is controlled by the home automation system and just moving the slider changes it back to "manual". I think it would be "neat" if the lamp responded to touch. e..g. if an unsuspecting sole reached for the switch near the lamp, the lamp would turn on. Maybe three levels of on. This is wishful thinking. |
| Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Jun 16 10:32PM +0100 David Farber wrote: > Regarding this Amazon link: > https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71CqHJCmX4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg > I see the image but I cannot find the webpage that links to that product. e.g. <https://amazon.co.uk/TUOFENG/dp/B07G72FZCR> |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 17 03:39AM -0700 > Do NOT tin the leads. The tin will flow under pressure, making the If one uses the correct solder (37/63), that does not happen. Further, those clamps should be TIGHT! Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Arie de Muynck <noreply@ademu.com>: Jun 17 02:58PM +0200 On 2021-06-17 12:39, Peter W. wrote: > If one uses the correct solder (37/63), that does not happen. Further, those clamps should be TIGHT! > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Some background info on my statement: https://cdn.thomasnet.com/ccp/00142951/263810.pdf https://reprap.org/wiki/Wire_termination_for_screw_terminals https://www.eptac.com/ask/when-to-tin-and-not-tin-wires/ IPC-A-610 Rev E, page 4-10, Section 4.1.4.2, states under defect conditions, 6th bullet down, "Stranded wire is tinned (not shown)" this is a defective condition for any wire going under any threaded fastener. IPC/WHMA-A-620, page 4-10, Section 4.4, same criteria as J-STD-001 as above. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_terminal While wires may be crimped, they should not be heavily tinned with solder prior to installation in a screw terminal, since the soft metal will cold flow, resulting in a loose connection and possible fire hazard. Screw connectors sometimes come loose if not done up tightly enough at fitting time. Verifying adequate tightening torque requires calibrated installation tools and proper training. In the UK, all screw connectors on fixed mains installations are required to be accessible for servicing, for this reason. Also, the technique is rejected by European certification organizations for mains connections. Which I fully support, after finding and repairing lots of bad connections that were done this way. A modern workaround is using spring clamping instead of screw clamping. No problem with cold flow there. And yes, THEN the tinning of stranded wire is even preferred by me... Arie |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 17 07:54AM -0700 > Some background info on my statement: Thank you for that, and as a routine, I do not tin wires when connecting to circuit boards with screw-down connectors. But I think that you are missing the context here. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/8133OQYBg9L._AC_SL1500_.jpg This is a device similar to those in question here. Often they are in close quarters with tight clearances. The purpose of tinning fine-stranded wiring is to reduce the possibility of a stray strand getting where it should not. The proper method is to tin the wire to 'tame' the strands, then treat it as if it is a solid wire by crimping it around the screw, then screwing it down - TIGHT. This is not for corrosion or even for longevity (but the latter is a fortunate by-result). As I understand it, and if you are in Europe, Wire Nuts are not permitted, and these sorts of things are used routinely in household wiring: https://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc%7Cpcrid%7C72935675177%7Ckword%7C%7Cmatch%7C%7Cplid%7C%7Cpid%7CCB15474%7C&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE (Chock-Block connectors). They are not NEC approved here as free connectors (a wire nut is a 'free' connector as it is not screwed down), nor would I tin wires into such were they an option (and screwed down). Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 17 08:27AM -0700 On 6/17/2021 7:54 AM, Peter W. wrote: > They are not NEC approved here as free connectors (a wire nut is a 'free' connector as it is not screwed down), nor would I tin wires into such were they an option (and screwed down). > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Peter and Arie, Earlier Peter linked to this Amazon product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2GLKMP/ In the product's description it says: "High-quality *tinned* copper inner core, can maintained copper wire for a long time does not oxidize .protecting them from corrosion and making it easier to solder." Does this tinned copper wire have any relevance to your discussion about tinning wires? Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| Arie de Muijnck <eternal.september@ademu.com>: Jun 17 05:32PM +0200 On 2021-06-17 16:54, Peter W. wrote: > Thank you for that, and as a routine, I do not tin wires when connecting to circuit boards with screw-down connectors. But I think that you are missing the context here. > https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/8133OQYBg9L._AC_SL1500_.jpg > This is a device similar to those in question here. Often they are in close quarters with tight clearances. The purpose of tinning fine-stranded wiring is to reduce the possibility of a stray strand getting where it should not. The proper method is to tin the wire to 'tame' the strands, then treat it as if it is a solid wire by crimping it around the screw, then screwing it down - TIGHT. This is not for corrosion or even for longevity (but the latter is a fortunate by-result). I see your problem. No way to use stranded wire there without at least tinning the tip. In my youth (I'm 68 now) small eyelets were used for such problems, wire twisted around it, then the eyelet pressed close. I cannot even find an example picture any more... I'm in Europe (Netherlands). Your construction here still appears in wall outlets and wall switches, but is only allowed for solid wire. In equipment, like terminal blocks on switching power supplies, I always use a crimp terminal on the wire. All mains connected stranded wire must be terminated in a bus with a screw, like in the terminal block you mention: > As I understand it, and if you are in Europe, Wire Nuts are not permitted, and these sorts of things are used routinely in household wiring: > https://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc%7Cpcrid%7C72935675177%7Ckword%7C%7Cmatch%7C%7Cplid%7C%7Cpid%7CCB15474%7C&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE (Chock-Block connectors). > They are not NEC approved here as free connectors (a wire nut is a 'free' connector as it is not screwed down), nor would I tin wires into such were they an option (and screwed down). They are officially only allowed here between the solid wires sticking from the pipe in the ceiling, and the stranded wires going into the lamp. Not allowed for solid to solid mains wiring (or any other mains connected use). In Dutch, a chandelier is a 'kroonluchter' hence the name here is 'kroonsteentje' (chandelier stone, since it used to be made from porcelain). Thanks for the insights! Arie |
| Arie de Muijnck <eternal.september@ademu.com>: Jun 17 05:38PM +0200 On 2021-06-17 17:32, Arie de Muijnck wrote: > tinning the tip. In my youth (I'm 68 now) small eyelets were used for > such problems, wire twisted around it, then the eyelet pressed close. I > cannot even find an example picture any more... Found something that looks like it, but not for electricity of course: https://www.hornbach.nl/shop/Oogtang-incl-oogjes/8067143/artikel.html The inner diameter used to be 3.2mm, fit for our usual M3 bolts. Arie |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 17 09:16AM -0700 > Does this tinned copper wire have any relevance to your discussion about > tinning wires? David - the discussion with Arie is peripheral to the pointed wire material. That material is factory-plated with a very tin tin coating. He and I are generally in agreement for electronics work, but in this case, we are dealing with practicalities and materials that are not specific to his concerns. "Tinning" in your context means using a small amount of solder at the ends of the wire to prevent loose strands. Then, crimp the wire around the screw before tightening - hard. 37/63 solder (eutectic) has no plastic state, so you do not have to be concerned about crumbling solder if the wires move during the cooling period. I have done a lot of these over time, including one 16-lamp (candelabra-base) crystal chandelier in our present house. That took nearly 12 hours of work to get just right - and including color-coding and removing many of the crystals for safe-keeping. I learned the ball-chain trick from a restorer back in the 1980s when he showed me how he did it. Did you know that one can still get the 'fake candle-wax' socket covers? and in multiple styles? https://i.etsystatic.com/13547198/r/il/a525df/1815436283/il_1140xN.1815436283_78js.jpg One more thing on that particular chandelier ( I wish I had a picture, but I am at work). It is a sad story, but when we purchased our house in 2008, it had been empty for 2 years as the previous occupants lost it to foreclosure. They had sold off all the appliances, some of the vintage hardware and other strange things, but not the three fairly massive chandeliers. When we had our insurance inspection, the inspector put a rider on our policy calling them out as we had the 'full-in-kind' restoration option. I won't state the imputed value, other than I thought it was absurd at the time. Not so much now. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 16 09:43PM -0700 >>external power supply. >There's no USB on KVM3304 model. Power is drawn from PS-2. >RL Oops. I managed to mangle the PS/2 connectors into USB. Sorry. However, my comments about not having the cable still apply. Plugging in an ordinary male to male HD-15 cable isn't going to work. It needs the "$pecial" cable, with the PS/2 connectors to deliver power to the switch. <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PLYAAOSw4f9f9g8k/s-l1600.jpg> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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