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Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Jun 13 12:10AM -0400 > Zerox (ok, it was Savin then) copy of the service manual, but it says nothing > about this. Yeah, it's nostalgia and prolly not worth the effort. But would > appreciate any tips from anyone who has done anything like this before.   Would that be anything like the CRT "cataracts" that tend to plague older CRTs? I've seen this type of issue clean back to post-war televisions, possibly earlier. I've seen some that look different from others.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zKnRoNc9Q0

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Jun 13 10:37AM +0100 On Sat, 12 Jun 2021 14:57:57 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >face shield that protects your eyes and neck when working with picture >tubes. They can be very dangerous, in close quarters, if broken...   >John :-#(#   I worked on a TV production line for a few years. Nobody had protective clothing. Just occasionally a CRT would implode when it was lifted out of the delivery box. It was seen as a loss of production time rather than a potential injury.   Steve -- http://www.npsnn.com

John Crane <john_crane_59@yahoo.com>: Jun 20 08:40AM -0500 On 6/13/21 4:37 AM, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote: > lifted out of the delivery box. It was seen as a loss of production > time rather than a potential injury.   > Steve   Oh yes, this is true. Glass shards are not sent flying everywhere. It's a very clean neat process and results in a little pile of glass on the floor. Almost as if someone had swept up the debris! After the glass breaks, the external atmospheric pressure pushes the glass pieces into the inner vacuum void. Impressive to watch.   -John

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 16 10:30AM -0400 On Tue, 15 Jun 2021 14:21:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:     >[1] I carry some of these in my toolbox. They mostly get used to >break the audio ground loop between the TV earphone jack and amplified >speakers.   Velcom bag Yeff!   RL

W Pulaska <nsd@nda.net>: Jun 13 09:23AM -0400 Pretty simple set up. I have my phono output from my desktop Audiofile 2496 sound card driving an Altec Lansing speaker set. Works fine when everything is on, but when the desktop is turned off I am getting a buzz/ hum from the speakers and loud enough that I power them off. Why is this and how to remedy? Thanks.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 13 09:42AM -0400 >everything is on, but when the desktop is turned off I am getting a >buzz/ hum from the speakers and loud enough that I power them off. Why >is this and how to remedy? Thanks.   I think your desk-top has a soft and a hard power switch. There may also be other peripherals that are still running plugged into the desktop.   If the humming is still there when the hard power switch is off, try terminating the signal lines from the PC with 600R. The PC may go high-Z when turned off - becoming a hum antenna.   Fool with cables to see if any movement modulates the amplitude.   Check grounding on the PA - are these active loudpeakers?   The source volume should be high, the amplifier's gain low, for best S/N performance.   RL

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jun 15 07:52PM -0700 On 6/13/2021 4:54 PM, Dave Platt wrote: > audio.   > A similar unmute-upon-power-on system is used in many commercial audio > components (e.g. tuners and preamps).   You could just put a several K ohm resister across the audio signals. It might drop the signal level some, but would pull the noise level down. Adjust the ohms to opimize results.

bje@ripco.com: Jun 12 05:16PM > of power. Therefore, there was NO need for a battery (does NOT have one).   > After the VCR failed to record at the appointed time, the time and date > was checked and was correct.   Doesn't matter.   If it does have some kind of power backup device, either battery or supercap, after 35+ years it's probably chemically broken down and is likley holding one of the lines to the cpu low.   You might think you are programming a record event but the cpu is ignoring it.   If you are absolutely sure there is no such device, take my other suggestion and go visit the nearest Salvation Army or Goodwill outlet store.   There are two of those on ebay now, one for $12.50 and the other for $20 (or best offer) but of course there is $20 in shipping charges on either.   Overpriced.   Assuming everything else is working correctly and it is just a timer problem, it's so unlikely to find a replacement clock/timer board these days and probably priced at 10x what the machine is worth, there really is no other solution except to replace the whole machine.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 10:35AM -0700 On 6/16/2021 9:51 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > Best of luck with it!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Hi Peter,   I would definitely like to lose that socket at the bottom of the fixture but when I asked the owner about that possibility, I was told that was the specific reason the lamp was purchased. I'm going to play it safe here and tell him that no matter how pretty it looks, it's not safe. Period.   Regarding this Amazon link:   https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71CqHJCmX4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg   I see the image but I cannot find the webpage that links to that product.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 11:46AM -0700 On 6/16/2021 10:45 AM, Peter W. wrote: > https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-different-Insulated-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07G2GLKMP/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=UL+listed+hook-up+wire&qid=1623865445&sr=8-18   > FYI   Very nice. Thank you!   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 16 09:19AM -0400 On Tue, 15 Jun 2021 14:43:27 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:     >According to several web pages and listings the power supply is 9VDC >500ma. However, if you have the correct cables, you shouldn't need an >external power supply.   There's no USB on KVM3304 model. Power is drawn from PS-2.   RL

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