Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Oct 10 10:25AM -0700

In the past, I have had problems with certain system settings changing
if the power to the receiver got disconnected. For months, I have had
the zone 2 output enabled, and have been disconnecting the power at
night because normally turning the receiver off with the remote leaves
the zone 2 amplifier on, wasting power.
 
When I turned on the power in the morning, zone 2 would come on, then
the remote would turn everything on. I tried an experiment with the
A.P.D. settings setting the zone 2 to 30 minutes rather than off,
thinking that maybe that would turn the zone2 off after 30 minutes with
no audio, but found instead that it would turn off zone 2 after the unit
had been ON for 30 minutes.
 
I reset the A.P.D. zone 2 setting to off. Ever since that experiment,
whenever I cycle the power to the unit, it turns on with the A.P.D.
setting for zone 2 at 30 minutes, causing it to turn off the sound in
the kitchen after 30 minutes. Resetting the A.P.D. for zone 2 to off
does not help. it is still 30 after the next power cycle.
 
My suspicion is that the setting storage memory is failing. Some
receivers, I have read, have had similar problems because of a failing
supercap supplying power to a memory chip when power is disconnected.
Has anyone had any experience with this problem that could assist me in
finding a solution.
 
I have not opened it up yet as this is my everyday sound system, and
want to inform my self as well as I can whether I am heading the right
direction, and how to locate the failing part if I am right.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 10 03:18PM -0400


>I have not opened it up yet as this is my everyday sound system, and
>want to inform my self as well as I can whether I am heading the right
>direction, and how to locate the failing part if I am right.
 
Can it remember settings for shorter time intervals of being off?
 
RL
abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Oct 11 05:13AM -0700

On Sunday, October 10, 2021 at 3:16:43 PM UTC-4, legg wrote:
> >direction, and how to locate the failing part if I am right.
> Can it remember settings for shorter time intervals of being off?
 
> RL
 
I would check the service manual at the link below. There may be a capacitor used to retain the settings rather than a battery and this could be failing.
 
Dan
 
Link: https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_sc-63_sc-61_sc-1227-k_sc-1222-k_rrv4324_av_receiver.pdf/download.html
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Oct 10 12:07PM -0700

On 10/3/2021 8:50 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
....
 
> I bought most of mine at a garage sale, where the former owner somehow
> killed most of the 18650 LiIon cells. They were moderately easy to
> replace with a (borrowed) spot welder and some nickel flat wire.
 
Why would anyone propose any other solution when that ebay url points
you straight to a 2000 amp hour solar usb charger for $17.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224104772302?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item342daf72ce:g:kFgAAOSwVe5fKHqU&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSvtkx670Z0mbyfWqmxLFLYZu8mkqWS37d7xCC4Rrv3jesxSBWWk%252FwIv3bQIjqLn9G07VEBc73LRdrUnrFiFtTwii70%252B36nJHnAzK0%252FK3rEjEmMaE8CAxUBEV7k2QgSxZ5Z3FsR7QKR9EjGNt6Qq%252BseJzW%252Bs5rEZiA8bezG4Ai43qgvJfEVBj%252FgEGnByb6hUsl13LIfl26uylGPEe01Mn7TVG4oJMiwEo97gDv0voW40eDfc2ifzAAO71UjP0yNoLNugd3DkjVGLabEZPIWl1YWUe6edo7p03obQbQzUWGjq8KYgCR4oxHrEjiOlzSzTeYR51jRiqguDe%252BREd1TWnimnr6ddo7sticIkFyhPgJGjuIWsEoH4w3Of828aJXcAhHjVoyeh9B05PRqeKctEqauJA6mQMUuPv%252FHJkUOwOjfPqogY29kx%252B07nysQvSPHhAalVtjpgn%252BFUpoiY3bWROGAewrlzkhBmNbJg8DcuQTACaUM63q2%252Fje%252BxvRZXzTGo%252BEOs43guxLDwkHsAgOQ9hTztaN%252Bx2LeLG9tzb90J9dxfxgaRAAfPn3NVHNGjQShV0biqejWJnb4Qmf%252B5OnoCoU0vPwxmTs8XpsvssZezERrOL0ikErQSqWX5X Y0pKywGzZ07qfL2qYRYIfYAePyLC4vQWPj8%252Bs7xJLnIabxFZevzDFE1oA6fZvtxI6JCU0RkQDwSPqPBc8W36gYfnRWI9fezPtLoFPrqHuOUqScluS9kXvjwsROHJ1lP7yAXeE11GoMLmMTgmxynHHAyB%252F11mJ3IJ5qS7yeALXaq6Yr8mzYE7phkP6gUM6BSMrVxYstJu7Z5rPPVbODvGUmY%252FXdCLgwg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 02:26PM -0700

> Why would anyone propose any other solution when that ebay url points
> you straight to a 2000 amp hour solar usb charger for $17.

Because the sun is not always readily available.
 
2,000 amp-hours. Really?
 
The typical solar panel (good utility-grade devices) make roughly 300 watts at very roughly 37.8 volts and is a bit under two square meters. That is just under eight (8) amps. To create 2,000 amp-hours of capacity at cell-charger voltages (say, 6 volts), you would need in excess of 12,000 watts in total. Making 40 panels. All that for $17.00. And from Brooklyn, NY, no less.
Now, the typical LiPo 1,200 MaH battery @ ~8VDC weighs a few ounces. A mere 1,666 of these would get you there as well.
 
Does anyone read for content?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 10 02:18PM -0700


>Why would anyone propose any other solution when that ebay url points
>you straight to a 2000 amp hour solar usb charger for $17.
 
>https://www.ebay.com/itm/224104772302 (Tracking junk removed from URL)
 
2,000,000 milli-amp-hr solar charger? It might work if it were a
2,000,000 micro-amp-hour charger (same as a 2 Amp-hr charger). What's
a few decimal points anyway? Inflation must really be getting out of
control. The eBay page says that 6,165 customers bought one. Looks
like it's already obsolete. Here is the 30,000,000 ma-hr version:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/401747105665>
More zeros are better for sales. 10,282 sold.
 
Incidentally, the 12V to 5V(USB) adapter gizmos arrived and were
immediately put into service when the local power died for about 4
hrs.
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/321645899181>
It doesn't work any better than my tangle of gel cell battery,
cigarette igniter to USB adapter, hose clamp, and clip lead kludge,
but is much neater and less prone to falling apart. The phone display
says "charging rapidly" which is what I would expect from a 10 watt
charger. This might be a problem if I wanted a Quick Charge or Power
Deliver fast charge that I was getting from my cigarette lighter to
USB adapter.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
bud-- <null@void.com>: Oct 10 09:49PM -0600

On 10/2/2021 12:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>>> Melrose Park, PA
 
>> As I understand, surge protectors are useless
 
> **There. I fixed it for you.
 
Excellent information on surges and surge protection is
<http://lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf>
"How to protect your house and its contents from lightning: IEEE guide
for surge protection of equipment connected to AC power and
communication circuits" published by the IEEE
 
A much simper guide is:
<https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/Legacy/SP/nistspecialpublication960-6.pdf>
"NIST recommended practice guide: Surges Happen!: how to protect the
appliances in your home" published by the US National Institute of
Standards and Technology
 
Both say surge protectors (plug-in and service) are effective. But, as
clearly explained in the IEEE guide, for plug-in protectors all
interconnected equipment needs to be connected to the same protector and
external connections, like coax also must go through the protector.
Peter guessed that was the problem. A common cause of damage is high
voltage between signal and power wires. As explained in the IEEE surge
guide (starting page 30) plug-in protectors work primarily by limiting
the voltage from each wire to the ground at the protector. To do that
all wires must go through the protector.
 
Service entry protection can also work. Again, the voltage on ALL wires
entering the building is clamped to a common ground with SHORT wires.
 
In both cases the voltage of "ground" and the wires may lift thousands
of volts from the earth potential 100 ft distant, but the voltage
between the wires is safe for the connected equipment.
 
-----
The surge expert at the NIST looked at the maximum surge that has any
reasonable probability of occurring (US). It is 10,000A per power
service wire. This is based on a 100,000A lightning strike to an
adjacent utility pole in typical US urban overhead distribution. The
IEEE surge guide has recommendations for surge amp ratings on page 18.
Ratings far higher than 10,000A per wire mean the protector will have a
long life.
 
-----
The NIST surge expert also investigated how much energy can reach the
MOVs (the major voltage limiter) in a plug-in protector (with no service
panel suppressor). Branch circuits were 10m and longer, and surges
coming in on power wires were up to 10,000A (which is the maximum
probable surge, as above). The maximum energy was a surprisingly small
35 joules. In 13 of 15 cases it was 1 joule or less. Plug-in protectors
with much higher ratings are readily available. (This is US, and there
are a couple reasons that may be different. One is the neutral-ground
bond in services. The other is arc-over described below.)
 
There are 2 reasons the energy is so small. One is that at about 6,000V
there is arc-over from the service panel busbars to the enclosure. After
the arc is established the voltage is hundreds of volts. Since the
enclosure/ground/neutral are connected to the earthing system that dumps
most of the incoming surge energy to earth
 
The second reason is the impedance of the branch circuit wiring. A surge
is a very short event. That means the current components are relatively
high frequency. That means the wire inductance is more important than
the resistance. The branch circuit impedance greatly limits the current
to the MOVs, which greatly limits the energy that can make it to the MOVs.
 
The maximum was not even for the largest surges. The largest surges
forced the voltage at the service above 6kV and arc-over. For some
smaller surges (with the shortest branch circuits) the MOV at the
protector held the voltage at the panel below 6kV and there was no
arc-over. One of them resulted in the maximum energy of 35 joules. The
voltage at the panel was higher than the stable arc-over voltage but
lower than 6kV
 
-----
Antennas can be protected from a direct strike - hams do it. It involves
much more than most people are interest in doing. Protecting a building
from a direct strike requires a lightning rod system.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Oct 05 01:42PM -0400

In article <lpuolg948p5oqen6jm8ddvsl9cd4t3l5m5@4ax.com>,
jeffl@cruzio.com says...
> with 2000 incoming minutes and 250 outgoing minutes included. That's
> a net savings of about $420/year. I can also switch to all cellular
> (cutting the cord) for which I alread pay $28/month.
 
I like the POTS but my bill was similar to yours for just basic service.
I Switched to internet phone and the internet together is $ 99 per month
for the basic 200 speed download. I don't upload very much so do not
care how how fast that is but do get 10 speed upload. With the
internnet phone I get lots of what would be extra on the POTS like
caller ID and long distance. I can even have it send the incomming call
to my cell phone if I do not answer the home phone.
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