Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 4 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Nov 06 06:31AM

Why is it in DVD players the first thing to fail is always the screen and not
the motor? Well, at tleast the screen shows stuff but all fuzz and
stuff. THis has happened to me with maybe four portable DVD players in the
past fifteen years. Whereas portable TVs always seem to die by losing
audio. I had two pocket one inch BW LCD TVs that lasted two decades. It this
really progress?
 
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 11:39PM -0700

vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
==================================
> past fifteen years. Whereas portable TVs always seem to die by losing
> audio. I had two pocket one inch BW LCD TVs that lasted two decades. It this
> really progress?
 
** I have a CD player that I bought in May 1983.
An original model Sony CDP101.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sony_CDP-101#/media/File:CDP101a.jpg
 
Use it regularly and it works great with CD ROMs too.
 
Paid A$1100 for it back then.
Maybe you *do* get what you pay for.....
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 11:07PM -0700

Hi,
 
this is what our OP has got:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDUf0Pqi8Do
 
See how it precariously it sits while in use ?
 
A real " Humpty Dumpty " event waiting to happen.
 
Nice, sharp image but.
 
 
.... Phil
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 05 06:20PM -0700


> > > ..... Phil
> > the 470k resistors are good, and i have the 350v at the rail. still stumped.
> Check R39, 40, 48, 50 all 22K each and check R45 and 47, 100 ohms each. The 12BH7 could be bad.
i checked every resistor, all check good. i checked the pots, all good. i checked the voltage to a and b terminals on the crt, close to whats listed on the schematic. whats makes this different than a bench scope is it has no internal trigger. it is only triggered externally by an inductive pick up. same for the vertical , another pick up. one problem is i dont know how to induce anything to get it do do something on the bench other than a dot. however, if i turn it on, you can see the dot dive bomb to the right, and then come back from right to center. seems to me that indicates the crt is working ok. i posted a video on youtube.
 
https://youtu.be/be-Nae-sIYQ
 
still , when hooked to an 8 cyl engine, i get a normal image from left to center. from center to right it appears to be collapsed or squished toward the center. where the pattern ends at the center, the line is fairly thick and intense, like a partial collapse of a cga crt.monitor. thanks for any input.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 06:36PM -0700

mhoo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
=======================
 
** Why did you tell us you had an IO-10 ???
 

> > > > > have an old heathkit io-10 auto ignition oscilloscope.
 
 
.... Phil
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 05 07:42PM -0700


> ** Why did you tell us you had an IO-10 ???
> > > > > > have an old heathkit io-10 auto ignition oscilloscope.
> .... Phil
it was either a typo or lack of sleep. not from this problem though.
sorry bout that
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 08:19PM -0700

mhoo...@gmail.com wrote:
=======================
> > ..
> it was either a typo or lack of sleep. not from this problem though.
> sorry bout that
 
** Start again - the io-20 is a COMPLETELY different animal !!!
 
If all the tubes are OK and the voltage too - not much is left but the CRT.
 
Two possibilities:
 
1. Because of being used around cars, it is likely to have fallen onto a hard surface once or twice.
 
2. The steel case is magnetised - deflecting the trace.
 
See if removing the cover makes a difference.
 
BTW I could not find any internal pic on the net.
 
 
 
... Phil
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 05 09:28PM -0700


> See if removing the cover makes a difference.
 
> BTW I could not find any internal pic on the net.
 
> ... Phil
i considered it may have been dropped. did you look at the video? im thinking if one of the defectors was damaged, the trace wouldnt move the way it does when it starts up, but maybe im off on that.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 09:36PM -0700

mhoo...@gmail.com wrote:
=====================
 
> i considered it may have been dropped. did you look at the video?
> im thinking if one of the defectors was damaged,
> the trace wouldnt move the way it does when it starts up, but maybe im off on that.
 
** I see nothing unusual for a tube scope start up in your vid.
 
What you claimed in you OP and now is false.
The dot quickly centers then moves off to the left slowly.
Perfect.
 
 
..... Phil
prc1@woh.rr.com: Nov 05 05:18PM -0400

I have two of these amps that exhibit either digital noise bursts on
the outputs or no sound at all. I've looked everywhere but can't seem
to get schemataics or a service manual. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 02:32PM -0700

pr...@woh.rr.com wrote:
======================
 
> I have two of these amps that exhibit either digital noise bursts on
> the outputs or no sound at all. I've looked everywhere but can't seem
> to get schemataics or a service manual.
 
** Behringer are very secretive about their products - no schems or manuals are published nor are any spares available to the public.
 
I have seen one of the " iNuke" amps on my bench a while back and deemed it as being next to unrepairable.
You need to track down a Behringer repair agent and see what they say.

Saying "digital noise bursts on the outputs " makes no sense at all.
Did you means high frequency bursts?
Pretty normal for Class D stuff.
 
 
..... Phil
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