- Wired, outdoor PC cameras? - 12 Updates
- How to open the battery lid on the backside of Beolink 5000 - 1 Update
| Char Jackson <none@none.invalid>: Dec 24 01:33PM -0600 On Fri, 23 Dec 2022 22:14:11 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote: >They will come out under a bed or between the bed and the desk. I did >this before in the other room for the FIOS optical cable and it works >well. If you decide on IP (Ethernet) cameras that need POE, where do you plan to locate the Ethernet switch that will power the cameras and aggregate their video feeds? Not outside, I hope. >**The ethernet cable and the power wire for the switch. So this part becomes "**The ethernet cables" |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Dec 24 03:53PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Dec 2022 13:33:35 -0600, Char Jackson >If you decide on IP (Ethernet) cameras that need POE, where do you plan >to locate the Ethernet switch that will power the cameras and aggregate >their video feeds? In a waterproof box, outside, under the overhang, like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT6NWTR/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3 I don't know how big the box should be until after I get the switch. (Too often Amazon just says how big the package is, not the item.) > Not outside, I hope. Oops. Well maybe not. What should I do? If I have the switch (or the hub in the case of USB cameras) inside, then I have to run 3 cables through the wall (or the floor) and I don't think I want that. When it's outside, I need one ethernet cable and one thin power cable for the switch. In eiher case the length from inside to the outside is now about 18 feet. >>**The ethernet cable and the power wire for the switch. >So this part becomes "**The ethernet cables" Okay. Right. |
| "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Dec 24 10:13PM +0100 On 2022-12-24 21:53, micky wrote: > (Too often Amazon just says how big the package is, not the item.) >> Not outside, I hope. > Oops. Well maybe not. What should I do? Outside has two problems I can think of. The obvious one is theft. Rain water I'm sure you have covered. But there are temperatures, too high or too low. The cameras sold for outside surely contemplate this, but not switches. > think I want that. When it's outside, I need one ethernet cable and one > thin power cable for the switch. In eiher case the length from inside > to the outside is now about 18 feet. Placing the switch inside is just 3 cables instead of two. I seem to recall the term "thin ethernet" — ah, no, that's coax. Was. -- Cheers, Carlos. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Dec 24 06:44PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Dec 2022 22:13:30 +0100, "Carlos E.R." >> Oops. Well maybe not. What should I do? >Outside has two problems I can think of. The obvious one is theft. Rain >water I'm sure you have covered. Yes, it will be out of the rain in a waterproof box, under an overhang 8 feet high. > But there are temperatures, too high or >too low. The cameras sold for outside surely contemplate this, but not >switches. The switch I greatly preferred** has specs: Operating Temperature: 0–40 C (32–104 F) Storage Temperature: -40–70 C (-40–158 F) Operating Humidity: 10–90% RH non-condensing Storage Humidity: 5–90% RH non-condensing https://www.tp-link.com/us/business-networking/poe-switch/tl-sf1005p/#specifications https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PRM2C5/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Over the year, maybe 90-95% of the time it's 32 degrees F or higher here. Can I assume if the permitted storage temp is -40, that when it warms up it will work again? Can I expect that it will actually work a few degrees below 32? The devices's lower limit is 32 and even in January and February the average low is just a little lower, 30 and 31.9 but I"m a little higher elevation and it's a little colder than downtown. Still that leaves days all year long and nights 10 months of the year when it's within operating temperature. **It was the only*** one using a wall wart, out of the selection that Amazon sells. ***TL-SF1005P V2. There is one other with more ports than I need, also by TP-link. And a more expensive one by some other company. All the others used the heavy 3-conductor power cable like are used in the back of a desktop computer. For appearance in the bedroom/office and for running through a hole to the outside, a thin flexible wall-wart wire seems better. Interestingly, with some of them, there are lots of pictures but no picture of the back (so I could be sure what sort of power cord was used). Even on the manufacturer's webpage, one I looked at it had a picture from the front, a little to the left, a little to the right, even more to the right, but none of the back! All of their pictures looked pretty much alike. |
| Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Dec 25 03:28AM -0500 On 12/24/2022 6:44 PM, micky wrote: >>>>> **The ethernet cable and the power wire for the switch. >>>> So this part becomes "**The ethernet cables" >>> Okay. Right. The operating temperature of 0C to 40C, is a "computer operating range". That's not reflective of chip operating temperature or SMPS operating temperature. I would expect you could squeeze -5C out of it. Just based on the minimum chip simulation temperature margin. Of more concern, would be condensation or frost buildup inside the switch box. Using a Kill-O-Watt meter, you can plug the power adapter for the switch into the Kill-O-Watt and get a watts reading, which gives you some idea whether the switch box has a significant self-heating effect. You would test, with the proposed three camera loads connected, for an accurate simulation before install. GbE switch boxes, generally have power saving per channel. If the LED goes off, then the channel could be sleeping, and not contributing to box-heating. The very first GbE switches (8 ch) for consumers, ran hot enough that some people Dremeled a hole in the plastic chassis top, and fitted a 40mmsq heatsink on top of the main IC. Modern switches probably aren't quite that bad now :-) The Dremeling started, after initial reports of premature failures of the product -- fitting cooling was an attempt to extend product life. My little four port switch, does not have perceptible heating on it right now. There's no need to Dremel that thing. Paul |
| wasbit <wasbit@nowhere.com>: Dec 25 09:18AM On 24/12/2022 23:44, micky wrote: >>>>> **The ethernet cable and the power wire for the switch. >>>> So this part becomes "**The ethernet cables" >>> Okay. Right. When you have mounted your box, to get the cables in, you then have to drill holes & add sealing glands (UK terminology). The holes will have to be large enough to allow whatever is on the end of the cable to pass through or you will have to cut & rejoin the cables. IMHO not a good idea. -- Regards wasbit |
| Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Dec 25 09:22AM wasbit wrote: > enough to allow whatever is on the end of the cable to pass through or you will > have to cut & rejoin the cables. > IMHO not a good idea. I would expect a weatherproof box that was good enough to keep a switch protected from the elements to cost a lot, cables are cheap in comparison, run them indoors and keep the switch there ... |
| Piet <www.godfatherof.nl/@opt-in.invalid>: Dec 25 11:22AM +0100 Andy Burns wrote: >> IMHO not a good idea. > I would expect a weatherproof box that was good enough to keep a switch > protected from the elements to cost a lot A plastic lunch box, silicone sealant and a bit of home work would do the job in a cheap way. I'd take care though that the box doesn't catch bright sunlight, but that goes for an expensive weatherproof box too. -p |
| "Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Dec 25 03:40AM +0100 On 2022-12-25 00:44, micky wrote: > Over the year, maybe 90-95% of the time it's 32 degrees F or higher > here. Can I assume if the permitted storage temp is -40, that when it > warms up it will work again? You can not assume it is safe to power up electronics beyond the working temp range, anything can happen. It is not "it just doesn't work but it is safe if I power it up out of range, and it will start working when temp is in range". Like, some current could be higher than supposed, this could have an unforeseen effect on another part of the circuit, and the device could permanently self destroy. Then, maybe nothing happens, but you simply do not know. You can not assume it has been designed with safeties that work and secure the circuits when temps are out of range. Rather, nothing has been calculated beyond the design range, and anything could happen. It might even work perfectly outside of range. Or catch fire. Anything goes. ... -- Cheers, Carlos. |
| Graham J <nobody@nowhere.co.uk>: Dec 25 01:12PM micky wrote: [snip] > (Too often Amazon just says how big the package is, not the item.) >> Not outside, I hope. > Oops. Well maybe not. What should I do? [snip] Remembering an earlier post, you were complaining that WiFi from your house to an outbuilding used as an office was unreliable. So a suggestion: Run Cat5 (i.e. Ethernet) cable from your house to the outbuilding. Terminate each end (inside the houe and inside the outbuilding) with sockets so that you then use (easily replaceable) patch cables from those sockets to other equipment. (As previously mentioned, the barbs on RJ45 plugs do break off, rendering them useless. They break because of inexpert handling - don't blame yourself, it happens to all of us!) In the house connect to your router; and in the outbuilding connect to your PoE network switch. The switch then connects to whatever computers you have in the outbuilding (and if necessary to a wireless access point to provide for those devices whoch don't have an Ethernet socket). The switch should be left powered up continuously which in an outbuilding will almost certainly keep it above its lower temperature limit. In summer it mught be worth arranging some natural ventilation. You run cables from that switch to your cameras. Ethernet cables run outdoors should be either outdoor grade (so will tolerate years of sunshine) or run in protective ducts - the PVC used to make them is very attractive to rats which will chew through them. -- Graham J |
| Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Dec 25 02:04PM Graham J wrote: > the barbs on RJ45 plugs do break off, rendering them useless. They break > because of inexpert handling - don't blame yourself, it happens to all of us! When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you're not tempted to re-use it later "just temporarily" ... |
| Ken Blake <Ken@invalid.news.com>: Dec 25 09:38AM -0700 On Sun, 25 Dec 2022 11:22:36 +0100, Piet >> protected from the elements to cost a lot >A plastic lunch box, silicone sealant and a bit of home work would >do the job in a cheap way. I But if a hungry thief sees the lunch box... |
| Deichgraf <11b7587b1bff1a6c58aab2a44933315c@example.com>: Dec 25 05:00AM How to open the battery lid of the back side of the beolink 5000 remote control? -- For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/repair/how-to-open-the-battery-lid-on-the-backside-of-beolink-5000-3367872-.htm |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 2 topics"
Post a Comment