sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Neead a pair of handle index parts for an HP 833A Spectrum Analyzer
mainframe. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/330ac96f90300ead?hl=en
* Technics SL-1350 tonearm does not drop vertically. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/275776b57680ec4f?hl=en
* Help identifying components - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a66446e99cc4d03?hl=en
* TV turns off plugged into surge protector - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/755764111f5ddb2a?hl=en
* Small Engine Carburetor Rebuild or Replace? - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3eed186303139b0?hl=en
* SATA-to-USB Adapter - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1e62af80c95de41c?hl=en
* My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Neead a pair of handle index parts for an HP 833A Spectrum Analyzer
mainframe.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/330ac96f90300ead?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 6:11 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Don Lancaster wrote:
>
> On 9/25/2010 9:52 PM, WallyWallWhackr wrote:
> > On Sep 25, 4:38 pm, Don Lancaster<d...@tinaja.com> wrote:
> >> On 9/25/2010 9:51 AM, WallyWallWhackr wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Sep 23, 10:14 am, Don Lancaster<d...@tinaja.com> wrote:
> >>>> These attach to the carrying handle and let you adjust the position.
> >>>> Need both the handle part and the chassis part.
> >>
> >>>> The handle part is cylindrical and about an inch in diameter.
> >>>> The chassis part is a rectangular square with machined rings in it.
> >>
> >>>> Used condition fine.
> >>
> >>>> Also need a new lid if the price is reasonable.
> >>
> >>>> Many thanks,
> >>
> >>> Ebay has kits like that. Folks that insert equipment into rack
> >>> mounts and the like never use those kits and some of them are
> >>> smart enough to sell them. You can also buy it from HP as a kit,
> >>> but I assumed that you knew that already and posted looking for
> >>> a cheaper route. After spending not to many personal hours
> >>> looking though, you could have simply bought the HP kit.
> >>
> >> Thanks for the tip, but this is the pivot for the tilt handle, and is
> >> not involved in the rack mount stuff.
> >>
> >> Also HP has discontinued all parts support for this item.
> >> But possibly the same handle pivot is used on something newer.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Many thanks,
> >>
> >> Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
> >> Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
> >> rss:http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: d...@tinaja.com
> >>
> >> Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site athttp://www.tinaja.com
> >
> > Silly. Folks that do the rack installs have the HANDLE KIT as
> > surplus.
> >
> > There are hundreds if not thousands of them out there.
>
> All I need is ONE.
> Price and availability?

|----||----|
| DO NOT |
| FEED THE |
| TROLLS! |
|----||----|
||
||
||
/|\\|/||||//|||/\???\\//\\\\/|?\/\\\\/\/\/\||||\

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SL-1350 tonearm does not drop vertically.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/275776b57680ec4f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 6:25 pm
From: whit3rd

On Sep 26, 5:47 pm, "David Farber" <farberbear.uns...@aol.com> wrote:
> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote in message

> > While the arm is being lowered, it should be in contact (somewhere, above-
> > or below-deck) with the lifting mechanism, right? Should there not be
> > sufficient friction between the arm and the lifter...

> Yes, that is the crux of the problem. The rubber portion of the arm lifter
> which contacts the tone arm seems to have lost its grip.

Sometimes a rubber item can be rejuvenated with ... brake fluid.
The stuff in your auto brake lines is intended to keep the rubber
seals all flexible. A few cotton swabs and a few drops of brake
fluid
might be useful. Give it a few hours to 'soak in' then re-apply.
It's a glycerine-based product, wipes up with a damp cloth.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help identifying components
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a66446e99cc4d03?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 6:58 pm
From: Randy

On Sep 26, 3:56 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> DaveC wrote:
>
> > > I may have the answer, but No, I can't help you....
>
> > ???
>
>         |----||----|
>         |  DO NOT  |
>         | FEED THE |
>         |  TROLLS! |
>         |----||----|
>              ||
>              ||
>              ||
>  /|\\|/||||//|||/\???\\//\\\\/|?\/\\\\/\/\/\||||\
> --
> Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
> enough left over to pay them.

Fix the sign or for pete's sake, Do Not Use It Again.
R.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 9:12 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Randy wrote:
>
> On Sep 26, 3:56 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > DaveC wrote:
> >
> > > > I may have the answer, but No, I can't help you....
> >
> > > ???
> >
> > |----||----|
> > | DO NOT |
> > | FEED THE |
> > | TROLLS! |
> > |----||----|
> > ||
> > ||
> > ||
> > /|\\|/||||//|||/\???\\//\\\\/|?\/\\\\/\/\/\||||\
> > --
> > Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
> > enough left over to pay them.
>
> Fix the sign or for pete's sake, Do Not Use It Again.
> R.

Responding just
encourages them!
\
>')
( \
^^`
--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV turns off plugged into surge protector
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/755764111f5ddb2a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 7:06 pm
From: bud--

westom wrote:
> On Sep 25, 1:24 pm, Archon <Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> You seem to be missing the point.
>> OP wanted to know whysurgepower strip ceased to work
>> I had direct experience of same and explained
>
> When a power strip surge protector circuit fails, it leaves the load
> (TV) still connected to AC mains and the surge. It only disconnects
> protector circuits to protect them; not the appliance.

MOVs normally fail by starting to conduct at "normal" voltages and go
into thermal runaway. In the US, UL has required thermal disconnects for
failing MOVs since 1998.

Many suppressors have the protected load connected across the MOVs, and
the load is disconnected if the MOVs fail. If I remember right, UL
listed suppressors are supposed to say if they are not connected that way.

And Michael is right.

--
bud--

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Small Engine Carburetor Rebuild or Replace?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3eed186303139b0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 8:11 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:13:19 -0700 (PDT), Jon Claude Killy
<myomassage@gmail.com> wrote:

>How do I know to replace a carburetor on a small engine instead of
>rebuilding the carburetor?

Sorry, but my crystal ball is in the shop and therefore I can't devine
what you have and what problem you're trying to solve.

I have five chain saws and fix about a dozen more for the local wood
chucks. Also weed whackers and blowers. Most of the fuel related
problems I see are not caused by a tar and varnish clogged carburetor.
It's the [deleted expletive] filter on the end of the fuel line at the
bottom of the tank that gets clogged. There are also plenty of carbon
encrusted reed valves (old saws) and intake and exhaust outlets that
get clogged. I give the carb a blast of carb cleaner to remove any
varnish and gum, and then fix the other likely candidates, such as a
clogged air filter, crud on the spark plug, magneto problems, dirty
points, etc.

However, I have one Husqvarna 136 where the problem really was in the
carburetor. The previous owner torqued down the needle valves causing
the soft aluminum valve seat to deform. I could make it run, but it
wouldn't stay adjusted as the difference between lean and flooded was
about 1/8th of a turn. $50 for a new Walbro carb was a bit much, but
a rebuild kit would not have helped. By the time I was done, I had
put more into this old saw than it was worth.

If you must learn by destroying(tm), a rebuild kit costs about $15 and
an hour of your time. Try rebuilding first. If that doesn't work,
look again at the obvious other problems. Last, buy a new carb. If
that doesn't work, buy a new saw.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 8:28 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 19:38:19 -0500, Jeffrey Angus
<jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote:

>On 9/26/2010 7:13 PM, Jon Claude Killy wrote:
>> How do I know to replace a carburetor on a small engine instead of
>> rebuilding the carburetor?
>
>Rebuilding works 98% of the time.

Yep, on chain saws. However, I'm zero for 5 attempts on automobile
carburetors. After 5 disasters, I gave up.

>What to look for to determine if replacement is needed.
>1. missing parts.
>2. broken parts.

Assuming a chain saw or lawn mower:
3. Brass needle valve with a circular grove and a matching grove in
the seat.
4. Clogged intake to the cylinder.
5. Clogged fuel line.
6. Clogged fuel filter.
7. Clogged air filter.
8. Debris in the carb after the air filter was punctured.
9. Wrong fuel or bad fuel/oil mix.
10. Far too much Sta-Bil in the fuel.
11. Water in everything.
12. Mangled throttle linkage.
13. Automagic choke stuck either open or closed.
14. Timing adjustment on magneto position.

and the winner that took me several days to find.
15. Permanently shorted cutoff switch.

>Running swill like Arco gas through it will certainly cause any
>soft parts to degrade and need replacement a lot sooner.

You should see what's left of my Homelite EZ when my semi-brilliant
neighbor used Coleman camp fuel (naphtha) and a 50:1 oil mix. Worked
great until the piston froze in the cylinder. I'll fix it one of
these days when I feel like relieving my frustrations by pounding out
the piston with a 2x4 and a sledge hammer.

However, you're right. Some solvents, cleaners, and gas additives
attack rubber parts. The same neighbor mentioned that the saw seemed
to be leaking oil, which I confirmed. What he didn't tell me is that
he put some kind of solvent in with the chain oil to "clean it"
resulting in all the rubber seals turning to slimy goo.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SATA-to-USB Adapter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1e62af80c95de41c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 9:40 pm
From: isw

In article <pan.2010.09.26.11.20.37@lmao.lol.lol>,
Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

> On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 22:13:09 -0700, isw wrote:
>
> > I have one that works fine with a 500 GB hard drive, but will not work
> > at all with a DVD burner I just got. Another SATA-USB adapter runs it
> > just fine.
> >
> > So is the first one "for hard drives only", or is it defective?
> >
> > Isaac
>
> What do the user instructions say?

There are none.

> Did you visit the manufacturer's website for additional information on the product?

There are no markings on the board (it was inside a case before I pulled
it out).

> Are you trying to adapt an eSATA to external USB drive or visa versa?

My ATA disc burner died. I could not find another ATA drive, so I got a
SATA. The SATA to USB card has been working just fine just fine on a 500
GB hard drive. When I stick it on the DVD burner, I can open and close
the tray from the Mac, but the burn software always reports that there
is an "unreadable" CD-RW in the drive, no matter what is actually in
there. When I stick a disc in, the laser traverses a few times, but
that's all that ever happens.

It's probably an older adapter, so I was wondering if it might not be
able to handle a burner.

Isaac

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 9:46 pm
From: isw

In article <slrni9upaj.d3n.aznomad.3@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
AZ Nomad <aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

> On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 22:13:09 -0700, isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
> >I have one that works fine with a 500 GB hard drive, but will not work
> >at all with a DVD burner I just got. Another SATA-USB adapter runs it
> >just fine.
>
> >So is the first one "for hard drives only", or is it defective?
>
> >Isaac
>
> It's probably a device driver issue. If it has never worked for you than
> it is a setup issue, not a repair issue.

As I already said:

The adapter works fine with a different drive (a standard hard drive,
not an optical one).

The new DVD burner works fine with a different SATA-USB adapter.

> Try posting to an approrpiate newsgroup. If there's software involved,
> a good place to start would be with a newsgroup for the particular
> operating system you use.

No software is involved.

> Hint: driver advice for linux or mac won't help you if you run windows,
> advice for windows version 7 won't help you if you run windows xp,
> 98, etc.

Well, that's sort of stating the obvious. Of course, often *nothing*
will help you if you run Windows.

> Also, in the history of computing, believe it or not, there's been
> more than one SATA-USB adapter sold. Why do you think knowing
> the maker and model wouldn't be useful information?

Well, it might. If the card had happened to have anything like that on
it, I would have mentioned it. Sadly, it did not.

Isaac

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 10:07 pm
From: AZ Nomad

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:46:47 -0700, isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
>In article <slrni9upaj.d3n.aznomad.3@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
> AZ Nomad <aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

>> On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 22:13:09 -0700, isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
>> >I have one that works fine with a 500 GB hard drive, but will not work
>> >at all with a DVD burner I just got. Another SATA-USB adapter runs it
>> >just fine.
>>
>> >So is the first one "for hard drives only", or is it defective?
>>
>> >Isaac
>>
>> It's probably a device driver issue. If it has never worked for you than
>> it is a setup issue, not a repair issue.

>As I already said:

>The adapter works fine with a different drive (a standard hard drive,
>not an optical one).

>The new DVD burner works fine with a different SATA-USB adapter.
Both irrelevent.

Has the adapter in question *ever* worked with an optical drive?
I don't care if it works with hard drives.
I don't care if optical drives have worked with other adapters.

If not, it is most likely a setup issue or design issue. How the
the hell can you say it is in need of repair if you've never seen it
work?

>> Try posting to an approrpiate newsgroup. If there's software involved,
>> a good place to start would be with a newsgroup for the particular
>> operating system you use.

>No software is involved.
Bullshit. Do you even know what software is?
My god, how can anybody be this stupid.

>> Hint: driver advice for linux or mac won't help you if you run windows,
>> advice for windows version 7 won't help you if you run windows xp,
>> 98, etc.

>Well, that's sort of stating the obvious. Of course, often *nothing*
>will help you if you run Windows.

Well, what the hell are you running? You've managed a mild whine about
windows. Are you using windows? What version? Linux? What distribution?
What version? Ditto for mac, bsd, solaris... what the fuck are you running?!??

>> Also, in the history of computing, believe it or not, there's been
>> more than one SATA-USB adapter sold. Why do you think knowing
>> the maker and model wouldn't be useful information?

>Well, it might. If the card had happened to have anything like that on
>it, I would have mentioned it. Sadly, it did not.

What the hell are you babbling about? You're saying there's no chipset
on the card at all? That's amazing! No software. Now, it's doesn't have
hardware either. wow! NO maker. No model. Too bad you didn't mention what
operating system you run; you could have been told how to query the the USB
bus and find out via a simple software query. Oh, wait a minute. It one
of those magic devices that has no software, not even a single byte of firmware.

You continue the stunning behavior of not posting what make and model you're
talking about. You continue the stunning stupdity of believing that all
usb-sata adapters are identical. You can't be helped. You're simply
too stupid.

I'm through with you.
Go bank your head against a wall. It is all you are capable.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 10:28 pm
From: Y Knot

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:59:10 -0700, larry moe 'n curly wrote:

> How about ToyotaNation.com?

I fixed the $250 Toyota digital clock, for free!
The problem was the power connection is flaky.
I removed four silver springs.
I then pulled the pins off the harness connector.
I soldered those pins onto the Toyota digital clock circuit board.

When I put it all back together, the clock magically works now.

Here's the DIY I followed.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67508-3rd-gen-dash-clock-
fix-3.html

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