sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 26 2010 10:28 pm
From: Y Knot

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:59:10 -0700, larry moe 'n curly wrote:

> How about ToyotaNation.com?

I fixed the $250 Toyota digital clock, for free!
The problem was the power connection is flaky.
I removed four silver springs.
I then pulled the pins off the harness connector.
I soldered those pins onto the Toyota digital clock circuit board.

When I put it all back together, the clock magically works now.

Here's the DIY I followed.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67508-3rd-gen-dash-clock-
fix-3.html

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 1:32 pm
From: Hachiroku

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:59:10 -0700, larry moe 'n curly wrote:

>
>
> Y Knot wrote:
>
>> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
>
> The experts at sci.electronics.repair do. How about ToyotaNation.com?
>
> I'd check solder joints and electrolytic capacitors. Clocks have one
> voltage regulator for the logic, and it could be a 5V linear one or a
> switching regulator. The display uses either high voltage DC for
> fluorescent displays, a low voltage (roughly 15V) AC source for LCDs.
> Any switching regulator can have electrolytic capacitors wear out.
> Replace them with Japanese ones from Mouser.com, BDent.com, or
> DigiKey.com.

LMC, is that YOU?!?!

--
It says Last...In...Kadora
Gimme that! "La Stinkadora"

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 1:32 pm
From: Hachiroku

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 05:28:57 +0000, Y Knot wrote:

> On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:59:10 -0700, larry moe 'n curly wrote:
>
>> How about ToyotaNation.com?
>
> I fixed the $250 Toyota digital clock, for free!
> The problem was the power connection is flaky.
> I removed four silver springs.
> I then pulled the pins off the harness connector.
> I soldered those pins onto the Toyota digital clock circuit board.
>
> When I put it all back together, the clock magically works now.
>
> Here's the DIY I followed.
> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67508-3rd-gen-dash-clock-
> fix-3.html

Excellent.

--
It says Last...In...Kadora
Gimme that! "La Stinkadora"

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SL-1350 tonearm does not drop vertically.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/275776b57680ec4f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 1:39 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

There are also rubber rejuvenators, but that might be too much trouble for
this particular problem.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 8:42 am
From: Chuck

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 12:28:03 -0700, "David Farber"
<farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

>This Technics SL-1350 had a misadjusted set down point and needed some
>damping fluid. The arm now has a slow and smooth descent but the anti-skate
>force is pulling it outward as the arm is slowly lowered. I've cleaned the
>arm lifter but the tonearm occasionally still will pull to the right as the
>arm drops. Sometimes, it misses the lead in groove and record completely.
>Since the customer likes to stack his records for convenience sake, the lift
>arm height cannot be lowered too much. The tonearm lift is no longer
>available, part number SFPRT13003K. Anyone have a fix for this?
>
>Thanks for your reply.

We used to use a product called Fedron to rejuvenate the lift rubber.
Chuck

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 9:53 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> We used to use a product called Fedron
> to rejuvenate the lift rubber.

Seconded. It works well.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 2:19 pm
From: "Shaun"

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote in message
news:i7o70g$gr3$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> This Technics SL-1350 had a misadjusted set down point and needed some
> damping fluid. The arm now has a slow and smooth descent but the
> anti-skate force is pulling it outward as the arm is slowly lowered. I've
> cleaned the arm lifter but the tonearm occasionally still will pull to the
> right as the arm drops. Sometimes, it misses the lead in groove and record
> completely. Since the customer likes to stack his records for convenience
> sake, the lift arm height cannot be lowered too much. The tonearm lift is
> no longer available, part number SFPRT13003K. Anyone have a fix for this?
>
> Thanks for your reply.
> --
> David Farber
> Los Osos, CA
>

It's a delicate instrument... I'd suggest hitting it with a big hammer.

BTW records are dead, get with the times and buy some CDs and DVDs or should
I say blu rays.

Shaun

==============================================================================
TOPIC: repairing of LCD 32 INCH T.V
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/145982d78110d189?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 2:40 am
From: ABDELHAMID ELRAFEI

I have a 32 inch wide screen LCD T.V exposed to a crash impact by my
youngest child ( he threw his shoes to the LCD T.V monitor. how could
I repair that LCD monitor crash . thanks a lot .

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 3:27 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 02:40:57 -0700, ABDELHAMID ELRAFEI wrote:

> I have a 32 inch wide screen LCD T.V exposed to a crash impact by my
> youngest child ( he threw his shoes to the LCD T.V monitor. how could I
> repair that LCD monitor crash . thanks a lot .

If the LCD screen is damaged it cannot be repaired it must be replaced.
Unfortunately replacing the screen is usually equivalent to the entire
cost of a new TV.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 9:38 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"ABDELHAMID ELRAFEI" <aelrafei1@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:eb6cbac0-bb74-4e25-a7ae-43988c0512f2@e14g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> I have a 32 inch wide screen LCD T.V exposed to a crash impact by my
> youngest child ( he threw his shoes to the LCD T.V monitor. how could
> I repair that LCD monitor crash . thanks a lot .

Sadly, by buying a new TV ...

Arfa

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 12:00 pm
From: Jeroni Paul

On 27 Set, 12:27, Meat Plow> If the LCD screen is damaged it cannot be
repaired it must be replaced.
> Unfortunately replacing the screen is usually equivalent to the entire
> cost of a new TV.

I still wonder why these delicate LCD screens are not protected with
some glass or hard plastic. I have seen many broken.

I can remember my grandgrandfather throwing shoes to the TV when some
political appeared. But he knew the tube front glass was very hard.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SATA-to-USB Adapter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1e62af80c95de41c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 3:26 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 00:07:09 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:

> On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:46:47 -0700, isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
>>In article <slrni9upaj.d3n.aznomad.3@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
>> AZ Nomad <aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
>
>>> On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 22:13:09 -0700, isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
>>> >I have one that works fine with a 500 GB hard drive, but will not
>>> >work at all with a DVD burner I just got. Another SATA-USB adapter
>>> >runs it just fine.
>>>
>>> >So is the first one "for hard drives only", or is it defective?
>>>
>>> >Isaac
>>>
>>> It's probably a device driver issue. If it has never worked for you
>>> than it is a setup issue, not a repair issue.
>
>>As I already said:
>
>>The adapter works fine with a different drive (a standard hard drive,
>>not an optical one).
>
>>The new DVD burner works fine with a different SATA-USB adapter.
> Both irrelevent.
>
> Has the adapter in question *ever* worked with an optical drive? I don't
> care if it works with hard drives. I don't care if optical drives have
> worked with other adapters.
>
> If not, it is most likely a setup issue or design issue. How the the
> hell can you say it is in need of repair if you've never seen it work?
>
>
>
>
>>> Try posting to an approrpiate newsgroup. If there's software
>>> involved, a good place to start would be with a newsgroup for the
>>> particular operating system you use.
>
>>No software is involved.
> Bullshit. Do you even know what software is? My god, how can anybody be
> this stupid.
>
>>> Hint: driver advice for linux or mac won't help you if you run
>>> windows, advice for windows version 7 won't help you if you run
>>> windows xp, 98, etc.
>
>>Well, that's sort of stating the obvious. Of course, often *nothing*
>>will help you if you run Windows.
>
> Well, what the hell are you running? You've managed a mild whine about
> windows. Are you using windows? What version? Linux? What
> distribution? What version? Ditto for mac, bsd, solaris... what the
> fuck are you running?!??
>
>
>>> Also, in the history of computing, believe it or not, there's been
>>> more than one SATA-USB adapter sold. Why do you think knowing the
>>> maker and model wouldn't be useful information?
>
>>Well, it might. If the card had happened to have anything like that on
>>it, I would have mentioned it. Sadly, it did not.
>
> What the hell are you babbling about? You're saying there's no chipset
> on the card at all? That's amazing! No software. Now, it's doesn't
> have hardware either. wow! NO maker. No model. Too bad you didn't
> mention what operating system you run; you could have been told how to
> query the the USB bus and find out via a simple software query. Oh,
> wait a minute. It one of those magic devices that has no software, not
> even a single byte of firmware.
>
>
> You continue the stunning behavior of not posting what make and model
> you're talking about. You continue the stunning stupdity of believing
> that all usb-sata adapters are identical. You can't be helped. You're
> simply too stupid.
>
> I'm through with you.
> Go bank your head against a wall. It is all you are capable.

The OP thinks that the adapter should be compatible with any device
that follows the ATA / ATAPI command set. Obviously there are some
commands issued by the software that are not being interpreted properly
by the adapter and then sent on to the optical device. These commands may
be outside the list of interpretable commands that particular adapter
recognizes. That's not too hard to vision knowing the ATA/ATAPI command
set was outlined and implemented before optical storage on DVD media.

I tend to agree with the OP. It should work. But that doesn't mean it
will.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Power mosfet question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b411ba653c75dcef?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 3:26 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:M0Tlo.61858$y85.831@newsfe13.iad...
> Michael Kennedy wrote:
>
>> I have a power mosfet that was shorted.. Due to my carelessness...
>>
>> A very fine sliver of solder bridged the gate to the drain. Would this
>> usually destroy the said mosfet? Or something else in line with it??
>>
>> Its a K3556... Is there a simple test for these? The drain pin was cut
>> off, but enough left to make a very fine solder bridge... ughh...
> yup. That would pretty much forward bias that fet beyond max!
>
>
>

Actually I got lucky.. It was ok after all.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Small Engine Carburetor Rebuild or Replace?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3eed186303139b0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 3:32 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:13:19 -0700, Jon Claude Killy wrote:

> How do I know to replace a carburetor on a small engine instead of
> rebuilding the carburetor?

Why in the hell would you think asking this question in an "electronics
repair" news group would be the right thing to do?

That aside, if you cannot answer the question yourself you should take
the entire motorized mechanism to a qualified small motor mechanic for
advice.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony PSP 3003 plaything
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/576a529ee137b8b7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 4:20 am
From: "N_Cook"

Pit was rectangular about 100 x 150 micron, off centre, with a small blob of
ex-molten ? metal, no hole seen . Decided that was the 2.5A fuse not the
5x3.5mm "tensile test piece" shaped intact metal lump nearer the marking.
Under some tinplate screening there were 2 more of these 1.8x.8mm lumps this
time marked LB , not blown apart and 1A on overlay, F0011 open , F7001
closed.
Bridged the first with 3A fuse and second with 1A. Now have current from 5V
supply , pulsing from base level of 5mA to 16mA draw, power sw moved to on
or not, battery in or not. Better than my previous likely timewasting-
inside a Kodak digital camera. Now to find time to track down where the
powerFET is. I would have thought such basic tech info would be out there
somewhere, a "roadmap" of major components, obviously not a schematic

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 4:35 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:20:17 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Better than my previous likely timewasting- inside a Kodak digital
> camera.

Please do not say the words Kodak digital camera in my presence.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 5:57 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.27.11.34.45@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:20:17 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Better than my previous likely timewasting- inside a Kodak digital
> > camera.
>
> Please do not say the words Kodak digital camera in my presence.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

At least the one I looked at failed for a respectable reason, Owner decided
to use an opposite polarity supply.
This PSP looks as though it initially failed from pbfitis at the solder
point of internal secondary power connector at the pcb trace, then heat
melted plastic , arcing broke a bit of phosphor bronze . The user accessible
power soocket , unusually, is nicely decoupled from user induced mechanical
failure as it uses wire tails, not soldered to pcb of any sort

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 6:09 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:57:12 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.09.27.11.34.45@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:20:17 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > Better than my previous likely timewasting- inside a Kodak digital
>> > camera.
>>
>> Please do not say the words Kodak digital camera in my presence.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
>
> At least the one I looked at failed for a respectable reason, Owner
> decided to use an opposite polarity supply.
> This PSP looks as though it initially failed from pbfitis at the solder
> point of internal secondary power connector at the pcb trace, then heat
> melted plastic , arcing broke a bit of phosphor bronze . The user
> accessible power soocket , unusually, is nicely decoupled from user
> induced mechanical failure as it uses wire tails, not soldered to pcb of
> any sort

I have a Kodak V1253 I'm working on. Waiting on the owner to provide me
with the proprietary interface to USB mini so I can attempt to reflash
the firmware which seems to be corrupted. I have read much negativity
on this particular model mostly firmware-oriented. The camera does just
about everything it's supposed to except take pictures or video. It
doesn't even attempt to enter those functions. And certain functions when
invoked actually invoke different functions than requested. No chance
send back to repair, would cost as much as new. The odd functions plus
all the blogging on camera oddities leads me to think a firmware refresh
or update may cure the thing. If not, the owner doesn't want it back. Has
a nice large panel on the back that could be useful for other stuff.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 7:36 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.27.13.09.05@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:57:12 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:pan.2010.09.27.11.34.45@lmao.lol.lol...
> >> On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:20:17 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
> >>
> >> > Better than my previous likely timewasting- inside a Kodak digital
> >> > camera.
> >>
> >> Please do not say the words Kodak digital camera in my presence.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
> >
> >
> > At least the one I looked at failed for a respectable reason, Owner
> > decided to use an opposite polarity supply.
> > This PSP looks as though it initially failed from pbfitis at the solder
> > point of internal secondary power connector at the pcb trace, then heat
> > melted plastic , arcing broke a bit of phosphor bronze . The user
> > accessible power soocket , unusually, is nicely decoupled from user
> > induced mechanical failure as it uses wire tails, not soldered to pcb of
> > any sort
>
> I have a Kodak V1253 I'm working on. Waiting on the owner to provide me
> with the proprietary interface to USB mini so I can attempt to reflash
> the firmware which seems to be corrupted. I have read much negativity
> on this particular model mostly firmware-oriented. The camera does just
> about everything it's supposed to except take pictures or video. It
> doesn't even attempt to enter those functions. And certain functions when
> invoked actually invoke different functions than requested. No chance
> send back to repair, would cost as much as new. The odd functions plus
> all the blogging on camera oddities leads me to think a firmware refresh
> or update may cure the thing. If not, the owner doesn't want it back. Has
> a nice large panel on the back that could be useful for other stuff.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Hopefully with PSPs , the schottky across the i/p and 2.5A fuse , would
knock out fuse before shottky going o/c, in reverse powering. Kodak seemed
not to have that basic protection. Hot chippery resulted in the kodak case.
At least I learnt how to deal with ultra miniature 0.5mm spcing ribbon
connector ALPS KS 8E302 (30x microscope read this), wedge goes in the other
way to usual and see-saw style grip to the ribbon lands. Nothing elucidatory
googling on that connector system

==============================================================================
TOPIC: GET PAID $2.50 PER LEAD FOR DOWNLOAD FREE INTERNET MARKETING EBOOK
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45609dcb350db492?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 5:05 am
From: jameser

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transfer

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need a handle asssembly for an HP 853a spectrum analyzer mainframe.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/14b2a569745c2b74?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 8:57 am
From: Don Lancaster

Or at least the two pivots.

Used OK.

Price and availability?

--
Many thanks,

Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
rss: http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: don@tinaja.com

Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Solder Lead free?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96f6a082e13df08e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 8:59 am
From: "SD"

Hi all

For solder this chips, Maxim1987, which solder wire using? and the liquid
flux?

http://www.techimo.com/forum/mobile-computing/126058-hp-compaq-nc6000-problems-15.html
http://www.laptoppartwholesale.com/Eblog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/max1987-2.jpg

Thanks

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 10:07 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

In my limited experience with hand soldering on micro-sized circuit board
pads, adding any additional solder greatly increases the chances of creating
short circuits from excess solder remaining on the pins or pads.

A small amount of liquid flux is adequate, and I mean barely more than a
slight trace of flux, because a drop is way too much, and will prevent good
visibility.
I generally use a toothpick with a little liquid flux on it, but much of it
wiped onto a scrap of paper to leave just a thin coat of flux on the
toothpick, then dragging the toothpick along one side of the IC, followed by
a close inspection to see that a tiny amount of the flux is on each pin or
pad, and then proceed to apply flux to the other sides of the IC.

I can't work on items that small anymore without magnification and very good
lighting, and wouldn't attempt it without a good magnifier lamp, even with
great eyesight.

Just touching a clean, hot soldering iron tip on the connection is normally
all that's required for complete reflow of the existing solder.
If there is excess solder on the iron's tip, it will likely cause problems.

With enough magnification, it's easy to determine if the proper reflow has
been accomplished.
If any of the connections appear to have too little solder for a reliable
connection under close inspection, then it may require the application of a
very slight amount of solder.
Adding the solder can be tricky, but remember that it's probably going to be
easier to add too much, than it will be to remove the excess, so just wet
the iron's tip enough to get a little solder to transfer to the connection.
The liquid flux will insure that transfer takes place.

I would use ordinary flux core 60/40 solder on the iron's tip, or a very
small amount of paste solder, of the type intended for surface mount
components applied to the pads (only if needed though).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"SD" <gfegk@gfdsd> wrote in message
news:4ca0bf5b$0$12122$4fafbaef@reader4.news.tin.it...
>
> Hi all
>
> For solder this chips, Maxim1987, which solder wire using? and the liquid
> flux?
>
> http://www.techimo.com/forum/mobile-computing/126058-hp-compaq-nc6000-problems-15.html
> http://www.laptoppartwholesale.com/Eblog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/max1987-2.jpg
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: And then this Philips CDR 760 appeared on the bench ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8ccac427fafeea1f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 9:46 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

Not a machine I'm at all familiar with. It basically does not a lot, other
than to power up with the message "SERVICE" in the display window. Anybody
know *specifically* what it's trying to tell us, or have a copy of the
service manual that might contain some enlightenment ?

Just as the first couple of quick checks, no obviously bulging caps on the
PSU (tho' not ESR'd yet) and if the drawer is manually opened and then the
unit is powered, there is no mechanical reset before the "SERVICE" message
appears, so drawer just stays out.

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 10:06 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:46:25 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Not a machine I'm at all familiar with. It basically does not a lot, other
>than to power up with the message "SERVICE" in the display window.

That means it failed self-test.

>Anybody
>know *specifically* what it's trying to tell us, or have a copy of the
>service manual that might contain some enlightenment ?

User Manual at:
<http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/c/cdr760_11s/cdr760_11s_dfu_eng.pdf>
There's a minimal diagnostic test listed at the bottom of the last
page. No clue if it offers an error code to lookup.

Hint: Look for a failed ModChips problem:
<http://www.modchip.it/shop/detail.asp?idprod=31&lng=en>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

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