sci.electronics.repair - 22 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SL-1350 tonearm does not drop vertically.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/275776b57680ec4f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 2:19 pm
From: "Shaun"

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote in message
news:i7o70g$gr3$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> This Technics SL-1350 had a misadjusted set down point and needed some
> damping fluid. The arm now has a slow and smooth descent but the
> anti-skate force is pulling it outward as the arm is slowly lowered. I've
> cleaned the arm lifter but the tonearm occasionally still will pull to the
> right as the arm drops. Sometimes, it misses the lead in groove and record
> completely. Since the customer likes to stack his records for convenience
> sake, the lift arm height cannot be lowered too much. The tonearm lift is
> no longer available, part number SFPRT13003K. Anyone have a fix for this?
>
> Thanks for your reply.
> --
> David Farber
> Los Osos, CA
>

It's a delicate instrument... I'd suggest hitting it with a big hammer.

BTW records are dead, get with the times and buy some CDs and DVDs or should
I say blu rays.

Shaun

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 6:10 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Shaun wrote:
>
> It's a delicate instrument... I'd suggest hitting it with a big hammer.
>
> BTW records are dead, get with the times and buy some CDs and DVDs or should
> I say blu rays.

Idiot. They are still releasing new LPs and pressing them. They are
still manufacturing turntables, as well.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 6:32 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Shaun" <rowl@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:nT7oo.5605$ez6.4309@newsfe02.iad...
>
> "David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:i7o70g$gr3$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> This Technics SL-1350 had a misadjusted set down point and needed some
>> damping fluid. The arm now has a slow and smooth descent but the
>> anti-skate force is pulling it outward as the arm is slowly lowered. I've
>> cleaned the arm lifter but the tonearm occasionally still will pull to
>> the right as the arm drops. Sometimes, it misses the lead in groove and
>> record completely. Since the customer likes to stack his records for
>> convenience sake, the lift arm height cannot be lowered too much. The
>> tonearm lift is no longer available, part number SFPRT13003K. Anyone have
>> a fix for this?
>>
>> Thanks for your reply.
>> --
>> David Farber
>> Los Osos, CA
>>
>
> It's a delicate instrument... I'd suggest hitting it with a big hammer.
>
> BTW records are dead, get with the times and buy some CDs and DVDs or
> should I say blu rays.
>
> Shaun
>
>

Not so. Records are still big business and much sought after, and decent
phono decks sell for staggering amounts of money ...

Arfa

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 9:37 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 9/27/2010 6:10 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:

> Shaun wrote:
>
>> It's a delicate instrument... I'd suggest hitting it with a big hammer.
>>
>> BTW records are dead, get with the times and buy some CDs and DVDs or should
>> I say blu rays.
>
> Idiot. They are still releasing new LPs and pressing them. They are
> still manufacturing turntables, as well.

And since he seems not to have noticed, CD sales are in the toilet. And
the new hot release format seems to be LP + download.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 10:34 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> On 9/27/2010 6:10 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>
> > Shaun wrote:
> >
> >> It's a delicate instrument... I'd suggest hitting it with a big hammer.
> >>
> >> BTW records are dead, get with the times and buy some CDs and DVDs or should
> >> I say blu rays.
> >
> > Idiot. They are still releasing new LPs and pressing them. They are
> > still manufacturing turntables, as well.
>
> And since he seems not to have noticed, CD sales are in the toilet. And
> the new hot release format seems to be LP + download.

Try to find a R-R tape recorder, or even a cart machine in a radio
station these days. OTOH, some still play 78s and Transcription disks
from the '30s & '40s. Spots, tags, jingles and commercials are stored
on a hard drive these days, but you still find turntables in studios.
WSM in Nashville is on station that plays old records.

BTW, 'The Grand Ole Opry' will return to the Opry House on the 27th.
It was badly damaged in the flood earlier this year. They haven't said
anything about when their studios will be moved back from the tower
site.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Solder Lead free?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96f6a082e13df08e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 2:57 pm
From: "SD"

many thanks.

One last question.This flux liquid is acceptable?

http://cgi.ebay.it/Advanced-Solder-Soldering-Paste-Flux-Grease-RMA223-10cc-/220664019690?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item336099baea

Regards

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 6:29 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

> "SD" <gfegk@gfdsd> wrote in message
> news:4ca0bf5b$0$12122$4fafbaef@reader4.news.tin.it...
>>
>> Hi all
>>
>> For solder this chips, Maxim1987, which solder wire using? and the liquid
>> flux?
>>
>> http://www.techimo.com/forum/mobile-computing/126058-hp-compaq-nc6000-problems-15.html
>> http://www.laptoppartwholesale.com/Eblog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/max1987-2.jpg
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:mb4oo.219089$iV7.51098@en-nntp-15.dc1.easynews.com...
> In my limited experience with hand soldering on micro-sized circuit board
> pads, adding any additional solder greatly increases the chances of
> creating short circuits from excess solder remaining on the pins or pads.
>
> A small amount of liquid flux is adequate, and I mean barely more than a
> slight trace of flux, because a drop is way too much, and will prevent
> good visibility.
> I generally use a toothpick with a little liquid flux on it, but much of
> it wiped onto a scrap of paper to leave just a thin coat of flux on the
> toothpick, then dragging the toothpick along one side of the IC, followed
> by a close inspection to see that a tiny amount of the flux is on each pin
> or pad, and then proceed to apply flux to the other sides of the IC.
>
> I can't work on items that small anymore without magnification and very
> good lighting, and wouldn't attempt it without a good magnifier lamp, even
> with great eyesight.
>
> Just touching a clean, hot soldering iron tip on the connection is
> normally all that's required for complete reflow of the existing solder.
> If there is excess solder on the iron's tip, it will likely cause
> problems.
>
> With enough magnification, it's easy to determine if the proper reflow has
> been accomplished.
> If any of the connections appear to have too little solder for a reliable
> connection under close inspection, then it may require the application of
> a very slight amount of solder.
> Adding the solder can be tricky, but remember that it's probably going to
> be easier to add too much, than it will be to remove the excess, so just
> wet the iron's tip enough to get a little solder to transfer to the
> connection. The liquid flux will insure that transfer takes place.
>
> I would use ordinary flux core 60/40 solder on the iron's tip, or a very
> small amount of paste solder, of the type intended for surface mount
> components applied to the pads (only if needed though).
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>

If the correct amount of liquid flux is on the job, then relatively huge
quantities of solder can be added in via the iron's tip to 'drag solder' all
the pins along a side pretty much 'en masse'. Only the correct amount of
solder will adhere to each joint, pulled in by capillary action, and the
liquid flux will do a remarkably good job of ensuring that shorts between
pins do not occur. If they do, it is a very simple task to remove the excess
solder causing the short, by the use of (good quality) desoldering braid. I
agree that good light and high levels of magnification are needed to be able
to do the job successfully. From the pictures in the links, that chip
doesn't have a particularly high pin density, so should not present too much
of a problem to resolder to the experienced hand.

The board was probably originally constructed with lead-free solder, so
strictly speaking, lead free should be used for the rework. However, in this
case, I think a much greater chance of success will be stood, by using
conventional 60/40 leaded solder. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to wick
off as much of the original solder as possible, before adding new solder in.

Here is an excellent video of soldering technique, which gives a good demo
of drag soldering, and use of desolder braid

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2860197/soldering_basic_to_advance_surface_mount_through_hole_wires_terminals/

Arfa

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 8:55 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

The product you asked about isn't liquid, it's a paste. I prefer liquid
which comes in bottles, and is also available in pen applicators.
The pens may dry out, but liquid rosin flux in a bottle can be thinned with
denatured alcohol if it becomes too thick with age.

Paste flux will probably work fine, but may leave more of a mess to be
cleaned up, if it can't be applied in very small amounts.

The SMD paste product I referred to is flux and powdered solder combined
together in a syringe cartridge, or small jar, and it works well for
reflowing existing soldered connections.

--
WB
.........

"SD" <gfegk@gfdsd> wrote in message
news:4ca11345$0$40286$4fafbaef@reader2.news.tin.it...
> many thanks.
>
> One last question.This flux liquid is acceptable?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.it/Advanced-Solder-Soldering-Paste-Flux-Grease-RMA223-10cc-/220664019690?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item336099baea
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 9:36 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

The close-up pic of the OP's Maxim 1987 shows that the package doesn't have
long pins extending from the body of the IC, as the ICs in the training
video do.
So, if a solder bridge occurs, it might possibly be under the edge of the
IC.. and maybe not easy to see or remove.

I didn't go to Maxim's site to look up the style of pins on that IC, but
they appear to be very sshort, and I would consider 12 contacts within the
width of a screw head to be a fairly fine pitch for anyone that isn't
experienced at soldering small contacts.

I noticed that the training board solder pads aren't connected to real
circuit traces or components, so it's not really the same as repair work.
There doesn't appear to be any obstructions or tall components near the
training board ICs, so it looks very easy, since there is nothing to impede
the iron or hand motion.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:yxboo.22766$YS6.11887@newsfe27.ams2...
>
>>> http://www.laptoppartwholesale.com/Eblog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/max1987-2.jpg
>>>
>>
>
> If the correct amount of liquid flux is on the job, then relatively huge
> quantities of solder can be added in via the iron's tip to 'drag solder'
> all the pins along a side pretty much 'en masse'. Only the correct amount
> of solder will adhere to each joint, pulled in by capillary action, and
> the liquid flux will do a remarkably good job of ensuring that shorts
> between pins do not occur. If they do, it is a very simple task to remove
> the excess solder causing the short, by the use of (good quality)
> desoldering braid. I agree that good light and high levels of
> magnification are needed to be able to do the job successfully. From the
> pictures in the links, that chip doesn't have a particularly high pin
> density, so should not present too much of a problem to resolder to the
> experienced hand.
>
> The board was probably originally constructed with lead-free solder, so
> strictly speaking, lead free should be used for the rework. However, in
> this case, I think a much greater chance of success will be stood, by
> using conventional 60/40 leaded solder. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to
> wick off as much of the original solder as possible, before adding new
> solder in.
>
> Here is an excellent video of soldering technique, which gives a good demo
> of drag soldering, and use of desolder braid
>
> http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2860197/soldering_basic_to_advance_surface_mount_through_hole_wires_terminals/
>
> Arfa

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 10:27 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> The close-up pic of the OP's Maxim 1987 shows that the package doesn't have
> long pins extending from the body of the IC, as the ICs in the training
> video do.
> So, if a solder bridge occurs, it might possibly be under the edge of the
> IC.. and maybe not easy to see or remove.

That doesn't matter. Some fresh RMA liquid flux and a drop of fresh
solder, un gently along the row of the pins will remove most bridges,
anywhere along the length of the pins, with just a little practice. Just
make sure the solder bridge is above the pool of molten solder, and that
the flux has covered the solder bridge before you start. I've even
removed loose solder balls that were trapped between an IC body and the
pins that way.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Dell desktop 330 works 4 a short time and freezes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7a891deb1abb9fb5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 3:39 pm
From: "fynnashba@yahoo.com"

I have a Dell optiplex 330 desktop PC which will boot alright, the
windows desktop with the (i'm using Win XP )icons will show but just
for about 40 seconds and it freeze for about 10 seconds and everything
will go off. just at about the time that it will go off the processor
fan will run at a very high speed. when it goes of like this, the
power light will change from green to amber and there will be some
weak cracking sound (presumably trying to give a beep) from the buzzer
on the mother board. At this stage powering it up again will not work
unless it is unplugged from the mains for about 20 minutes and it will
repeat the above problem.
I disconnected the hard drive just in case its a virus but the
same thing happened and even in setup mode.
please help

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 4:36 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 15:39:18 -0700 (PDT), "fynnashba@yahoo.com"
<fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I have a Dell optiplex 330 desktop PC which will boot alright, the
>windows desktop with the (i'm using Win XP )icons will show but just
>for about 40 seconds and it freeze for about 10 seconds and everything
>will go off. just at about the time that it will go off the processor
>fan will run at a very high speed. when it goes of like this, the
>power light will change from green to amber and there will be some
>weak cracking sound (presumably trying to give a beep) from the buzzer
>on the mother board. At this stage powering it up again will not work
>unless it is unplugged from the mains for about 20 minutes and it will
>repeat the above problem.
> I disconnected the hard drive just in case its a virus but the
>same thing happened and even in setup mode.
> please help

Is the air coming from the rear fan cold, warm, hot, or very hot?

Open the box and try to figure out what is getting hot? CPU, RAM,
plugin cards, power supply, etc.

Make sure the CPU is properly seated and that the heat sink is
properly attached to the CPU. You symptoms sound very much like an
overheated CPU.

Look at the electrolytic capacitors surrounding the CPU and see if any
of them look scorched, melted, leaking brown goo, or have the tops
bulging. If that's the case, see:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
<http://www.badcaps.net>

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 4:51 pm
From: Clyde

On 27/09/2010 23:39, fynnashba@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have a Dell optiplex 330 desktop PC which will boot alright, the
> windows desktop with the (i'm using Win XP )icons will show but just
> for about 40 seconds and it freeze for about 10 seconds and everything
> will go off. just at about the time that it will go off the processor
> fan will run at a very high speed. when it goes of like this, the
> power light will change from green to amber and there will be some
> weak cracking sound (presumably trying to give a beep) from the buzzer
> on the mother board. At this stage powering it up again will not work
> unless it is unplugged from the mains for about 20 minutes and it will
> repeat the above problem.
> I disconnected the hard drive just in case its a virus but the
> same thing happened and even in setup mode.
> please help

Check the cooling arrangements, particularly the processor heatsink/fan
combo. Check the fan is working correctly and the heatsink fins are
clear of dust. Then have a look that the clamping mechanism is holding
the heatsink tight to the top of the processor. While you've got the
heatsink off, clean off any gunk and add new thermal paste.

Finally check all fans are working and there are no obstructed vents.

It might help, it sounds like an overheating issue. Is it overclocked?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Small Engine Carburetor Rebuild or Replace?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3eed186303139b0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 4:44 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Sep 26, 5:38 pm, Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
> On 9/26/2010 7:13 PM, Jon Claude Killy wrote:
>
> > How do I know to replace a carburetor on a small engine instead
of
> > rebuilding the carburetor?
>
> Rebuilding works 98% of the time.
>
> What to look for to determine if replacement is needed.
> 1. missing parts.
> 2. broken parts.
>
> Running swill like Arco gas through it will certainly cause any
> soft parts to degrade and need replacement a lot sooner.
>
> Jeff

So which gas is _not _ swill in your humble opinion? I only ask
because I've been running Arco for 25 years.

G²

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 7:04 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 9/27/2010 6:44 PM, stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:
> Jeffrey Angus wrote:

> > Running swill like Arco gas through it will certainly cause any
> > soft parts to degrade and need replacement a lot sooner.
> >
> > Jeff
>
> So which gas is _not _ swill in your humble opinion? I only ask
> because I've been running Arco for 25 years.

The problem is the oxygenation (and other additives). It seriously
kills the soft rubber parts like the pickup tube to the filter
element in chainsaws and other small 2-cycle engines. It's not
quite as problematic in 4-cycle engines other than the rubber lines
and primer bulbs if they have them

The other problem is usage. Unlike automobiles, most power tools
sit idle for weeks at a time.

What I told people to use when working as a service tech at the
Yamada Co. was either Exon, Mobile (now the same) or Chevron.
And to spring for premium. You're engine runs better and stays
cleaner inside.

Also, premix the CORRECT amount of Stabile(tm) in a 1-5 gallon
fuel can. As others poited out, too much is worse than none.

And NEVER let your friends borrow a chainsaw. I saw it over and
over, "But we only had one more cut when we ran out of gas so..."
(We welded the piston into the engine.)

Jeff
The other other one.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help identifying SMD transistor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e028edf645085e23?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 4:57 pm
From: Clyde

On 23/09/2010 19:46, PlainBill47@yawho.com wrote:
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:34:24 +0300, "Sotiris Antoniou"
> <samant@ath.forthnet.gr> wrote:
>
>> "Clyde"<mkdrummeyNOSPAMPLEASE@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:pVDmo.5381$YS6.2643@newsfe27.ams2...
>>>
>>> Hi, can anyone identify a transistor for me, this is from a LCD monitor
>>> inverter board. The markings on the transistor are DJ R
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello .
>> can you send us the LCD brand-model number.
>>
>> Sotos.
>>
>>
>>
> And a picture of the transistor or better yet, the package style, and
> the location identifier would be a big help.
>
> Now, because I'm smarter than average (Arfa Daily taught me well), the
> information you seek might be here: http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/dj
>
> PlainBill

Sorry mistake in my post, the markings are DJ RE. The Monitor is a
Digimate L-1715 17 inch.

Some research I have found transistors labelled RE that are high
frequency, I wonder if these are the ones, as they appear to drive the
transformer that feeds the backlight.

Only problem I'm having is sourcing them cheap.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 5:01 pm
From: Clyde

On 28/09/2010 00:57, Clyde wrote:
> On 23/09/2010 19:46, PlainBill47@yawho.com wrote:
>> On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:34:24 +0300, "Sotiris Antoniou"
>> <samant@ath.forthnet.gr> wrote:
>>
>>> "Clyde"<mkdrummeyNOSPAMPLEASE@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:pVDmo.5381$YS6.2643@newsfe27.ams2...
>>>>
>>>> Hi, can anyone identify a transistor for me, this is from a LCD monitor
>>>> inverter board. The markings on the transistor are DJ R
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello .
>>> can you send us the LCD brand-model number.
>>>
>>> Sotos.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> And a picture of the transistor or better yet, the package style, and
>> the location identifier would be a big help.
>>
>> Now, because I'm smarter than average (Arfa Daily taught me well), the
>> information you seek might be here: http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/dj
>>
>> PlainBill
>
> Sorry mistake in my post, the markings are DJ RE. The Monitor is a
> Digimate L-1715 17 inch.
>
> Some research I have found transistors labelled RE that are high
> frequency, I wonder if these are the ones, as they appear to drive the
> transformer that feeds the backlight.
>
> Only problem I'm having is sourcing them cheap.

By the way the inverter PCB is labelled IV185030HX. It drives 2 CCFL
tubes so has duplicate circuitry for each side.

The bad side has so far had a few bad components replaced.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LA4112 amp ic datasheet?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 5:42 pm
From: b

On 13 sep, 18:41, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On 20 Aug, 01:12, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:53:52 -0700 (PDT), b
> > <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> > >...any ideas on where to get a good quality pdf of this sanyola4112
>
> > Here is an NTE equivalent:http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1400to1499/pdf/nte1463.pdf
>
> Many thanks. Hopefully I will get one this month - will update as to
> how easy that turns out to be!
> B.

Ended up getting an LA4112 from a local dealer, turned out not to be
the problem though! A cap in one of the supplies was s/c. Never mind,
I now have a spare IC ;-)
-B

==============================================================================
TOPIC: And then this Philips CDR 760 appeared on the bench ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8ccac427fafeea1f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 6:07 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:5bj1a61q6nl8n7st6qma3n24i2vfqbdp9j@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:46:25 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>Not a machine I'm at all familiar with. It basically does not a lot, other
>>than to power up with the message "SERVICE" in the display window.
>
> That means it failed self-test.
>
>>Anybody
>>know *specifically* what it's trying to tell us, or have a copy of the
>>service manual that might contain some enlightenment ?
>
> User Manual at:
> <http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/c/cdr760_11s/cdr760_11s_dfu_eng.pdf>
> There's a minimal diagnostic test listed at the bottom of the last
> page. No clue if it offers an error code to lookup.
>
> Hint: Look for a failed ModChips problem:
> <http://www.modchip.it/shop/detail.asp?idprod=31&lng=en>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com

Thanks Jeff. I just found a reference to the "SERVICE" indication being a
failure of self test, a few minutes before returning here and reading your
post. That's interesting about the mod chip. I'll take a look at the board
under the drive tomorrow, to see if anyone has been 'at it'. Interestingly,
Philips machines are one of the few types that actually bother to look for
the digital watermark that's present on a genuine CDR-Audio disc. Most
recorders will work quite happily with cheapo regular CDR discs. Friend of
mine has a Philips, and he only knows of one place locally that's left,
where he can just walk in and buy CDR-Audio discs. They cost about 70p ($1)
each ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: repairing of LCD 32 INCH T.V
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/145982d78110d189?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 27 2010 7:23 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Sep 27, 4:40 am, ABDELHAMID ELRAFEI <aelraf...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a 32 inch wide screen LCD T.V exposed to a crash impact by my
> youngest child ( he threw his shoes to the LCD T.V monitor. how could
> I repair that LCD monitor crash . thanks a lot .

Take it out of his allowance for the next 15 years until he leaves
home. Hopefully, by then he will be able to sit down again.

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TOPIC: Sony PSP 3003 plaything
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/576a529ee137b8b7?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 28 2010 12:40 am
From: "N_Cook"

I think this "tensile test piece" is the tab of the powerfet, active part
completely blown off the tab and as no trace of die, presumably isolated tab
, as also on a ground plane. Or could the 0V line be switched? Cannot even
see what orientation as no top-side traces to G,S,D and no pads seen.
Desoldering the tab and then desolder wicking does not totally remove the
solder and just a neat solder rectangle on the pcb, very odd.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Disappearing fuse wire
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/32bd99a942ca778e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 28 2010 12:39 am
From: "N_Cook"

Where cause is unknown I closely inspect fuses to gauge whether
mechanical/aging or thermal failure and then an idea of rupture current.
This ELU 20mm 500mA F fuse had no trace of the wire , no smoke stain or
hazing at all in the glass tube. I cracked the glass expecting to see
remnants of wires or powder or something in the ends but nothing, all
"evaporated". Looks like the construction is "festoon bulb" ie totally
glass , sealed envelope with metal end caps added, something to do with it?
, I've not ground-off or heated off the end caps yet.

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sci.electronics.repair - 22 new messages in 10 topics - digest

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