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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 20 03:55PM > That motor draws only a small fraction off the current compared to the heating element. However alot of them DO use a diod for low power, what else ? A resistor would melt the thing and a chopper would just be too much because alot of them are cheap. I don't care if you pay alot for it, that just means they made more money.   >> "** Suspect half wave loads make them under read a bit."   > My Uncle and cousin (his son) tried to do just that. Both into electronics and with better jobs than I actually. But they did it big, the went to shithouse (ESI in Cleveland back when they were in Cleveland, a surplus place) and got these gnarly rectifiers and hooked them up to the elements of an electric furnace. They said it was weird like you could see waves going through the elements when they were first getting up to temp. But the idea was to magnetize the poles/stator or whatever and slo the thing down permanently, or nearly. There is no way to know if they had any success but it was a fun thing they did as a Father/son project. Hey, we never promised to use our powers for good. >-)Youse guy down there don't think that way because they don't fuck you up the ass the way they do here. Our morality is to return the favor until we get caught and then get a good lawyer. In fact the reason so many onventors came here is because of the market and the intellectula property laws - i. e. MONEY.   > I am not so sure that can be done. ?Have to give it some thought when summer comes and it it air conditioning time. That costs quite a bit less since I changed the run cap in the condensing unit. but now, that thing take 240. What's more it takes quite a bit of amperage and we still have the old style motor driven meter.   > And, if I can't make it sinosodial, will that just decrease the efficincy to the point where I just wasted my time ?   > I dunno. Going out for a smoke.   Diode on the mains primary side of the heater wire of the hot air gun, for a lower power setting. Then something corrupting going along the mains wiring to the variac at some other point on the same ring main. I was forgetting there is RCCD in there as well as the variac (for extra personal protection). I think a bit more testing of the mains wiring and temporary removal of the trip is in order.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 20 02:54PM Surprised to see the scematic out there. Symptom: works for a few minutes then backlight starts dipping out, exactly every second , no audio out, random letters, (not segments) disappear from the display and no response to any buttons. So far found 5V, +\- 15V and are stable but not delved further into the digital board or other TO220 devices. Corrupted memory? insulated touching of digital chippery makes no difference.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 20 03:11PM On 20/02/2015 14:54, N_Cook wrote: > So far found 5V, +\- 15V and are stable but not delved further into the > digital board or other TO220 devices. Corrupted memory? insulated > touching of digital chippery makes no difference.   schematic for CD and pa , but not 640T for tuner out there, front pic looked the same at reduced scale.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 20 03:49PM 4 separate 7805 for some odd reason. 2 non-heasinked ones are stable 5V but 2 with heatsinks dip to 4.5V or so. Both H/S are perfectly cold and 9.6V ac from Tx is fine. Can only monitor supply side of one of those 7805 and it dips below required, so hopefully it will be failed smoothing electro, when I get to the other side of the main pcb.

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Feb 20 02:21AM On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 13:22:56 -0800, Dave Platt wrote: > open at the far end (and these can be tricky due to parasitic > capacitance, and could also radiate signals from other channels) or a > half-wavelength stub which is shorted at the end.   And, be aware that the _open_ quarter wave stub will also demonstrate 'zero' impeadance at all the odd 1/4 wave frequencies -- IOW, at 3X your "200 to 300 MHz" target, and at 5X, etc.   >>the digital data "un-usable" (can't decode). Another concern is the width of >>the notch. If it is too wide, it may affect the adjacent channel.   > The latter is not at all unlikely.   I have made 1/4 wave stubs of High Q out of 1/2" and 3/4" cable TV hardline to eliminate harmonic interference in TVs from nearby (non-TV) transmitters. WFM.   HTH Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | W3DHJ | W3DHJ | http://W3DHJ.net/ Pueblo, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | __ 38.238N 104.547W | jonz.net | DM78rf | 73 SK

jaugustine@verizon.net: Feb 20 08:05AM -0500 <SNIP> >one source for them - these are the sort of "big guns" used by CATV >companies if they want to knock out one channel, and insert their own >content on that frequency.   Hi Dave,   Thank you for this very useful information.   I decided to abandon the idea of making my own NF.   I sent an email to sneva@tinlee.com with the frequency of the channel I want to "block". I am waiting for a response.   Again Thanks, John

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Feb 20 01:25PM > feature to look at a list of "on demand" available movies, TV shows, music > videos, etc.   > I know the frequency, which by the way is between 200 and 300Mhz.   I think you need to look up building a better tin-foil hat, the one you are using isn't working.   I used to mess around with cable notch filters back when the systems were all analog and I can't see where you came up with this idea to work on digital systems. It's just not the same thing.   The analog systems used the same 6 mhz channel bandwidth as the terrestrial broadcast systems so you narrowing down to the 200 to 300mhz range isn't much better than saying "it's in the cable somewhere".   On digital systems the channels simply don't exist, unless they are analog. It's data like ethernet. Your cable box is more akin to a computer than a cable converter. What's worst is, some systems like fios and uverse, the "cable" ends at that box out front or in the alley and your converter is just telling what to send down the copper from the box to your house. Is how they feed the 500 channel universe into a pair of 50 year old abestos covered wires.   Even if it is an analog channel that you can pin down exactly (i.e. 63-69mhz), the filter is quite a bitch to work properly. If you look at (I'm sure there is some still for sale on ebay, I think the big one was ARCOR) one professionally made, those things are a precision made, highly shielded peice of hardware.   The easiest thing to mess with to experiment is something that may be difficult to get because radio shack sold it. The device was an FM radio trap for TV use. Besides coming in a nice metal box that was easily opened, it had both an in/out F connector and a circuit board with non-waxed coils you could spread open and close, changing the frequency and depth of the notch. If you were trying to get rid of something below 150mhz, it probably could be beat into submission.   Of course having a $20,000 Wavetek rf sweep generator with the 75 ohm option and a scope with a decent pre-scaler to see where and how the notch is working is somewhat mandatory for that $4.99 fm trap. Luckily I had that stuff laying around.   But the bigger problem is, besides getting your notch deep enough and on the right freq, the major challenge is getting everything above and below it to pass though. This was a major problem back when most cable systems were limited to 450 or 550mhz total bandwidth but being 2ghz quality cable is being used and channels/carriers up in the nose-bleed section above 1 gig, I doubt if it could be done correctly.   Even those high dollar arcor filters the cable companies used to manually block channels "leaked". Maybe they did a good job scrubbing out channel 18 or something, but at least 2 or 3 others up the way from it were also weaken. Snow, herrbones, colored snow.   But the point is, if it's a digital system, whatever you think is a "channel", isn't. It's like trying to come up with a notch filter for your internet ethernet to filter out all the porn.   It just doesn't work like that.   I dunno why you find that advertising so annoying, if it's the one I'm thinking of on the selection screen, but a better solution that is more practical is just get a black peice of paper and tape it over the PIP box, mute the audio and you are all set. When you find something to watch, take the paper off and unmute the audio.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Feb 20 08:09AM On 19/02/15 20:25, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > Gareth.   > Upset.   Oh, it's not just electronic stuff: http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1612383/hob-control-knob?PartTypeId=1599&ManufacturerId=254   And you thought the Pioneer knob was expensive! A dozen years ago it cost me over £70 to replace the 6 knobs on a Stoves unit (all the markings had worn off, and a couple were loose).   --   Jeff

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Feb 20 04:26AM -0800 On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:52:48 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > And this is not some old Pioneer hi-fi, this is Current production Pioneer > High End DJ gear for clubs/tours etc.   > Gareth.   At least you have the advantage of the unit being a "high end" product. Imagine the fun of dealing with the same garbage on a low end unit..   I have a 50" Proscan LED TV only a few months old (2014 Black Friday POS) that has corrupted firmware. I have a dozen files from various brands that use the same basic mainboard but can't find the exact one that will give me a normal picture, or remote functions, etc.   I called Proscan, and they won't send me the firmware (had to explain to the phone dunce what firmware was). So I asked for the eeprom; they don't sell ICs. I asked for a price on the main, and they said they don't sell those either. Their solution is to pack up the TV and send it to Michigan for repair.   Of course, the customer abandoned this toilet for a problem that could be solved with an email. So the TV is junk unless and until I get another one like it in the shop with an intact firmware that I can copy.

"Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Feb 19 06:37PM -0800 I have a printer given to me that does not print properly from the black print head. There are regular horizontal gaps in every printed head, which I think indicate plugged jets in the print head. I'd like to manually clean the face of the head with ammonia water like I have previously on other printers, but this unit does not seem to offer any easy access to the actual print head. Can anyone suggest the easiest way to get to it, perhaps with a cotton swab?   I have tried multiple cleaning cycles, and printing pages of all black with no improvement. They print well except for about 1/8" gaps horizontally every 1/2".

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Feb 19 03:27PM -0800 On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 23:20:01 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >> found a special tool that had a hook on it   >Heh heh., I have that tool with the little pigs' tail on the end. >Maybe.... just maybe ... it will fit.   I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set that is about to be placed in service again for my drum brakes.   <http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST102B.jpg>

Leif Neland <leif@neland.dk>: Feb 20 02:55AM +0100 Ralph Mowery udtrykte præcist:   (Sorry, my news server does not carry alt.home.repair)   > was suspose to be, it would slip off. Then next time I was at the auto > store I found a special tool that had a hook on it that would go over the > stud. Worked just fine the first time.   I can still get shudders thinking about when my father was changing the front shock absorbers, and his home-made spring compressor slipped. His finger(s) got stuck in the coil spring, and I had to help him get it out. That really hurt, and I had thoughts about that I had to cut a finger off...   It was about 40 years ago, a Ford Consul Corsair. (UK)   Leif   -- Je suis Charlie

mogulah@hotmail.com: Feb 19 09:15AM -0800 On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 9:18:01 PM UTC-5, Allodoxaphobia wrote: > If so,they are always "on" (somewhat) -- even when they are off.   > > Model number(s)?   > Yes, please!   No. This is too cavemanish. Junk the 70's transistor radios and get radio service and large speakers through a touch screen phone provider.   (Why keep going back further and further into time)

Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 19 01:29PM -0600 On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 09:15:21 -0800, mogulah wrote:   > (Why keep going back further and further into time)   I take it you are not getting older?   Mike.

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