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Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 20 09:55AM -0800 > I know the frequency, which by the way is between 200 and 300Mhz.   Do you know the bandwidth needed? If it's fairly wide band, you'll probably end up with a hipass and lopass filters in series.   > If I have this correct, the "stub" is a 1/4 wave length of the offending >frequency. The 75 ohm coax is cut to that length and is shorted on the far >end. The other end is connected via a "T" connector.   Stubs will work, but I prefer LC. Here's an FM band (100 MHz) notch filter I threw together to keep the FM junk out of a local VHF ham repeater. <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/SCCARC-talk-2013-09-20/LTspice-FM-Notch/>   > Also, I don't know if the notch will be "deep" (high Q) enough to make >the digital data "un-usable" (can't decode).   What digital data? Make my life easy and supply: 1. What are you trying to accomplish? What problem are you trying to solve? 2. What have you got to work with? Ability, test equipment, materials, etc.   > Does anyone have any suggestions, or can you recommend a place >where I can order a good CATV NF (I am willing to pay)?   There are plenty of custom filters around. Google. I gotta run immediately....   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

jaugustine@verizon.net: Feb 21 11:39AM -0500 >just telling what to send down the copper from the box to your house. Is how >they feed the 500 channel universe into a pair of 50 year old abestos >covered wires.   Hi Bruce,   Digital broadcasts over the air uses specific frequencies. However, cable uses coax instead of "air". Those digital "packets" require RF to travel over the air or on cable.   I injected a 276Mhz signal into the cable and it "knocked out" those ANNOYING ads/promos you see when you use the "On Demand" feature to see a list of movies, TV shows, music videos, etc. With the ads "blocked", I was able to select and view (on demand) a music video because it uses a different frequency.   John

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Feb 21 06:51AM -0800 On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 6:36:28 AM UTC-5, micky wrote: > on, a radio program comes out. When I t turn it off, only the hum. In > one case, I put a separate switch on the wire to the speaker, and now > the radio makes no noise when it's off.   some of us appreciate time travel. Lenny

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net>: Feb 21 05:27AM -0600 "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:lWRFw.772331$551.508707@fx43.am4... > earn large amounts of money, so they expect to pay a premium to get them > repaired.   > Arfa   Geoff.   I don't work on many CD-J units, but I've got a CD-J800mkII in right now and having trouble nailing down the problem.   Basically it acts like the clamper magnet is much too strong. When the mech goes to lift up the disc off the clamper, it encounters too much resistance and the white nylon rack gear at the top slips and ratchets. The disc cannot eject until I help it by lifting up the clamper with my finger. Requires quite a bit of extra "help".   Sometimes the laser assy also acts gummed up at the inside circumference and cannot contact the limit switch. It's not the stepper motor, and I cannot confirm bad lube.   Any ideas?   The Pioneer guy I talked to was clueless.   Mark Z.

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Feb 21 12:47PM "Mark Zacharias" wrote in message news:54e86bab$0$7706$4c5efc6d@fastusenet.org...   "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:lWRFw.772331$551.508707@fx43.am4... > earn large amounts of money, so they expect to pay a premium to get them > repaired.   > Arfa   Geoff.   I don't work on many CD-J units, but I've got a CD-J800mkII in right now and having trouble nailing down the problem.   Basically it acts like the clamper magnet is much too strong. When the mech goes to lift up the disc off the clamper, it encounters too much resistance and the white nylon rack gear at the top slips and ratchets. The disc cannot eject until I help it by lifting up the clamper with my finger. Requires quite a bit of extra "help".   Sometimes the laser assy also acts gummed up at the inside circumference and cannot contact the limit switch. It's not the stepper motor, and I cannot confirm bad lube.   Any ideas?   The Pioneer guy I talked to was clueless.   Mark Z.         Beer? I've seen quite a bit of that in CDJ's.       Gareth.

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net>: Feb 21 07:31AM -0600 "Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:38%Fw.782006$551.129706@fx43.am4...   > Beer? I've seen quite a bit of that in CDJ's.   > Gareth.   Well, I did forget to mention that there was a small quantity of sticky stuff in there, but I have carefully cleaned the affected parts and at least so far as the clamper issue is concerned, I do not think this is my issue. The pickup sometimes sticking near the inner circumference on the other hand...   Mark Z.

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Feb 21 02:23PM "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:8d8db8d8-d6b8-4d01-ac62-197787f25a73@googlegroups.com...   > Words like "tight-arse", "con-artist", "hassler" and "whinger" cover most > of them while the rest are straight out crims or drug dealers.   > ... Phil   Maybe that's part of the Aussie heritage :-)   However, that said, there are of course DJs like that here, BUT, they are not proper professionals that make their primary living at it. These are builders and plumbers and truck drivers that 'do a bit of DJ-ing' on the side at night for pin money. They often are the buyers of cheapo Maplin DJ units and the like though, not owners of expensive Pioneer pro units. It's a bit like if you look at the tools *we* use. My workshop side cutters for instance, are Lindstroms costing 45 quid a pop. I could easily have a 10 quid pair from eBay, and if I was a hobbyist, I would, but these are for professional use, and as far as I'm concerned, they are worth every penny, and I don't begrudge the money spent on them. They help me make my living, and that's the same with pro owners of Pioneer DJ equipment.   Arfa

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Feb 21 02:40PM "Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net> wrote in message news:54e888b1$0$23852$4c5efc6d@fastusenet.org... > The pickup sometimes sticking near the inner circumference on the other > hand...   > Mark Z.   As Gareth says, I've generally found the mechs to be quite reliable, mechanically. Beer / Coke ingression is very common for all sorts of nasty little problems on them. If there are signs of something like that having gone in there, it would still be the place that I think I would be looking for the problem. The motors are very light duty things, relying for their 'power' on the gearing behind them. If anything offers any resistance to that gearing, then there is just not enough power in the motor to overcome it.   Do you have the manual for it ? The exploded view of the deck shows all the lube points and the type of lube that should be used.   When you get it all going, check all of the tactile switches. The ones most used like "Play" and "Cue", have a habit of collapsing and losing their 'click'. They are easily replaced on most models. Also, check that the springs on the Jog Wheel have not collapsed. The turntable should have a distinct - but light - movement of probably 3/4 mm. When the springs that keep it raised collapse, you only have to blow on it to make it do its thing, and that is then close to the time where it can 'make' the ring of foil switches under it, almost under its own weight. The jog wheel assembly is easily removed and serviced. The springs can either be replaced, or gently re-stretched until they just support the weight of the turntable again.   Arfa

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 21 08:16AM On 20/02/2015 16:59, Sjouke Burry wrote: >> 7805 and it dips below required, so hopefully it will be failed >> smoothing electro, when I get to the other side of the main pcb.   > Well, do you like talking/responding to yourself?   It means less typing for when I get around to consolidating the threads and expanding with other obs, for my repair briefs

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 21 09:06AM electro seemed ok despite 16V,220uF rating on 9V full-wave rectifying, replaced with 40V 330uF . Maybe iffy polyswitches, 2 for the one winding. Both marked 30V PG3F, one measures cold .2R the other .9R, both increasing to double or so (normal, but should be the same) on touching with a soldering iron, data not found. Tx has printed rating of 9V , 1A for that sec, so presumably pg3f is .3A rating rather than 3A,supplying 2x 1amp regulators with large heatsinks?. Will try monitoring the ac over these polyswitches in use, perhaps wrong rating polyswitches were used.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 21 01:53PM problem not returned in half an hour of use, perhaps was the elctro, good ESR, good capacity (low volts) presumably at service voltage fails. The 2 polyswitches, same current, .20V stabilised at .23V after 10 minuts and the other 0.055V to 0.058Vac I'd not looked on the other side of these polyswitches, has the logo of a sloping p but 2 gaps in the loop, so a sloping f and a backwards c , and 110UF so 1.1 amp ratings presumably. Before an extended test I'll change the large ohmic one though

Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 21 03:28AM -0600 On Fri, 20 Feb 2015 21:02:37 -0800, Bob F wrote:     > Thinking about this, since it's one section of the entire print head > that seem to be not printing, this might be more likely perhaps to be an > electrical problem in the signals to the print head. Any opinions?   I'd have guessed that any part could clog up. But maybe if all nozzles in one section are clogged it could be electrical. Or a particularly sticky ink?   I had a couple of Epson Stylus 860 (IIRC) and did dismantle to the point where I could soak the print heads. But I didn't know about ammonia. The heads travel on a nice shiny round bar which moves to give variable clearance to the paper. As well as freeing the bar it was necessary to disconnect the drive belt and the position-sensing ruler. Not too difficult...   Mike.

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Feb 21 08:01AM Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Fri, 20 Feb 2015 21:45:30 -0800:   > <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=husqvarna+chainsaw+brake+repair> > Trying to do the same with a text search is much less useful.   That found this video, which, I must say, is doing things the hard way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PIDvWmJEo4

"Lord Bergamot" <lb@dot.net>: Feb 21 01:16AM -0600 The battery's gone wonky on my tablet. It takes a 3000 mah. If I was able to get a battery, like maybe, a 6000 mah, would it charge correctly, or would I need to go back with the same type battery?   There is plenty of room for a larger size battery, longer, wider, and even thicker. It would be easy enough to measure, I just forgot to when I had the case open.   Is there a web site where I could get a new battery? -- :-) Don't let the Zombies get you!!!!

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