Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 3 topics

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 13 01:15AM -0700

Hi,
 
Chinese made, 12 input chs, SMPS with Class D amp rated at 2x300W @ 4 ohms, still current model.
 
One of the above on the bench, SMPS allegedly blew at switch on. Mosfets shorted plus drive IC, buffer transistors etc.
 
The class D board appears to be undamaged but need working SMSP in order to test as it delivers all the low and high DC voltages. Main DC rails ought to be about +/- 75V.
 
Anyone familiar ?
 
Is the SMPS a known lemon ?
 
The design looks a bit cheap and nasty.
 
 
... Phil
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Jun 13 03:18AM -0700

On Saturday, June 13, 2015 at 4:15:53 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Is the SMPS a known lemon ?
 
> The design looks a bit cheap and nasty.
 
> ... Phil
 
No specific information on that unit, but I normally decide the repair strategy based on how many I'll see for repair. Being a current model, there's not a big history available so you'll not know how many more you'll eventually see (if any). For the first one, I'd be more inclined to try to find a replacement smps if it's a stand alone unit and can be gotten fairly cheaply, particularly if the mosfet took out so many parts as yours did. If I see two of these in my small hole in the wall shop, then it's a pattern and I'll spend 10 hours on the next one to find out what happened, why, and write a rebuild/upgrade procedure to make the following ones cheap and easy and hopefully upgraded.
Rev. 11D Meow! <rev.11d.meow@gmail.com>: Jun 12 08:00PM -0700

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 16:56:15 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
 
>Gareth.
 
Thanks, Gareth, it appears it's some sort of cam wear on this thing in
the loading mechanism which causes grief. Sitting for over a decade
certainly couldn't cause this wear, though, is what I am hoping...
 
It was working 111% when last used and put away carefully.
 
for a really long time.
 
I am surprised it powers-on at all, actually, much less this
replacement PCM-M1 which is plowing through the 33 DAT cartridges I
never got around to mulling over to the Archive drives.
 
The CORE cable I bought that does 7-pin Sont DAT communications hooked
to a single grounded line to one specific pin out to a RCA plug
coaxial S-P/DIF connector into the M-Audio M-Track Plus input of
similar ilk, though the signal level mismatch does not appear to be
any problem whatsoever as CORE explains on its site.
 
YAY
 
all these ambient tapes with occasina Harley-Davidson engine noises
AND the crows.
 
That's pretty much it on these archive tapes.
 
What a joy to spend another thousand dollars on what would probably
cost $20/tape to get transcribed.
 
But Now I Have The Equipment To GO RETRO again still...
 
 
DAT ROCKS!
etpm@whidbey.com: Jun 12 11:28AM -0700

To All,
I broke the digitizer on my iPad. I watched the videos online and read
the instructions. Nevertheless I tore the wifi antenna in half and
somehow damaged the ribbon cable that goes to the power, volume, and
lock switches. The damage was invisible even under magnification so I
don't know what exactly I did. My advice is if you need to replace a
digitizer you should also buy a new plastic bezel for the digitizer, a
wifi antenna, and one power cable with the switches attached. Make
sure the digitizer and bezel come with the tape already applied. Just
the experience of someone who has only done this once. The extra parts
are cheap, less than ten dollars total, and having them on hand will
help make the job go faster. I had to keep waiting for stuff as I
discovered more damage. After I got the old digitizer off there was
adhesive residue that needed removal. I used Q-tip cotton swabs wetted
with acetone. Not too wet, you don't want drips. This means using
about twenty Q-tips but they are cheap too. The acetone did not
liquify the residue, just made it soft enough to come away from the
metal and stick to the swab. Use a magnifier to make sure everything
is clean and free of glass shards and adhesive. Wear nitrile gloves.
Make damn sure you test the iPad with the digitizer just laying on top
and damn sure the display is clean before you set it in place
permanently.
Eric
mogulah@hotmail.com: Jun 12 12:38PM -0700

> Make damn sure you test the iPad with the digitizer just
> laying on top and damn sure the display is clean before
> you set it in place permanently.
 
I believe Tekserve is the repair shop that Apple operates.
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