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DaveC <not@home.cow>: Nov 17 08:31PM -0800 > I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but this is a question that a > simple google search should give good results for. Have you tried > googling for silicone and the other parameters you require?   16-conductor stranded, 24 awg or smaller, color-coded or numbered, single shield (foil or braid), oil-resistant jacket. Please try yourself. I've had no luck. I'm not saying one doesn't exit, but it's not easy to find.   OK, people–ready, set, GO!   Thanks.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Nov 17 08:33PM -0800 > 16-conductor stranded, 24 awg or smaller, color-coded or numbered, single > shield (foil or braid), oil-resistant jacket. Please try yourself. I've had > no luck. I'm not saying one doesn't exit, but it's not easy to find.   And cut to order (no 100 ft rolls, please–I need only 12 feet).   Thanks.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Nov 17 08:45PM -0800 > exposed to oil or coolant contamination, or will encounter high rates of > flexing I only specify Olflex. It's more expensive than most, but a lot > less expensive than failure and replacement.   I appreciate that this is, enviably, wonderful cable. But it comes in minimum size of 20 awg. If only it met all my requirements.   My need is for a hand-controller (think Atari joystick)–carrying milliamps. 20 awg is overkill at the expense of weight, diameter, and (arguably) greater flexibility.   Thanks.

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Nov 18 09:15AM -0500 On 11/17/2015 11:33 PM, DaveC wrote: >> no luck. I'm not saying one doesn't exit, but it's not easy to find.   > And cut to order (no 100 ft rolls, please–I need only 12 feet).   > Thanks.   Your best and cheapest solution may be to use a VTN-200 heat shrink to cover your standard PVC sheathed multicore. VTN-200 shrink is chemical and oil resistant and easily available. eg. Ebay # 251726064642 Might be an idea NOT to shrink it as it is more flexible unshrunk.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 18 11:10AM -0500 On 11/17/2015 11:33 PM, DaveC wrote: >> shield (foil or braid), oil-resistant jacket. Please try yourself. I've had >> no luck. I'm not saying one doesn't exit, but it's not easy to find.   > And cut to order (no 100 ft rolls, please–I need only 12 feet).   I can get you everything but the 12 foot section, and from multiple sources. There are lots of cables that fit your requirements. It will be hard to find such a short length of a specialized cable. You should look for a local supplier. I used to work in a shop where they sold all manner of wires and tubing in short lengths... but then again that place went out of business a long time ago.   --   Rick

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 18 11:37AM -0500 >20 awg is overkill at the expense of weight, diameter, and (arguably) greater >flexibility.   >Thanks.   The Alpha products go down to 26AWG ~ typical of com cables, with twisted pair varieties. It's kind of difficult to determine the guages in the Olflex info, due to notation method in product tables, but I'm pretty sure they'll offer the same thing. By the way, PVC=Vinyl, oil and chemical resistant or otherwise.   RL

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 18 02:52PM Ona 1983 Roland Juno 6 synth, so would like to keep original looking. Easy to wire in some modern replacement. One of those rotating arm , but slide switch action that used to be common on amps and tapedecks of the 1970s. 3 position mode switch. The arm that looks metal but is thin aluminium cylinder over plastic. Broken away , and missing, from the internal rocking bit. Switch action is good , but how to fit a shaft? Cannot simple drill and tap/glue a shaft as there is a fixing/pivot rivet that goes through that area. I've sintride fine cone-rasped 4 undercut holes radial to this central position. I intend 4 bend stiff wires and epoxy going in there , and a thin walled aluminium pcb stand-off cylinder, that would normally take a long bolt, slid over those 4 and then epoxied in aswell. Anyone been here before, or better idea?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 17 06:25PM -0800 N_Cook wrote: > how much extra noticeable hum? > Was it just to save the cost of closing the chassis, at both ends, with > expensive full thickness steel?     ** The modern Fender "Deluxe" comes in two version, Hot Rod and Blues. Fender made amps in the 50s and 60s simply called Deluxe, but these were quite different to the above. The full name is printed on a metal plaque on the back panel.   HR and Blues Deluxes are quite cheaply made, but have no serious flaws aside from having fragile plastic input jacks. The chassis is folded from one piece of steel sheet with the control surface nickel plated and screen printed. Additional static screening is provided by self adhesive foil applied at the ends and on the detachable back panel.   Most valve guitar amps have a fully screened chassis, often with aluminium sheet or wire mesh attached to timber surfaces to complete the job.   If this screening is missing of left out, the amp will make buzzing noise when the volume is turned up - particularly if the room has any fluoro tubes or dimmers. Shops with valve amps on display and demo typically have fluoro lighting, so this can be an issue affecting sales.   Lack of full shielding can also result in high frequency oscillation at high volume and tone settings - due to close proximity of speakers or guitars with poor shielding of the pickups and wiring. Some combo amp makers routinely ground the speaker frames for this reason.   Supersonic oscillation can seriously damage a valve (or transistor) amp so must be avoided.     ... Phil

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 17 08:59AM -0800 On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 11:07:47 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote:   >charging and discharging."   >I guess that explains the "Refresh" button on the SunLabz charger I got >for these things.   It's a rather odd way to describe a unique NiMH phenonmenon. A brand new battery will NOT deliver the full rated capacity until after it has been charge/discharge cycled a few times. I've been told that this is also a problem if a used battery has been stored for some unspecified time.   I attempted to test for this at: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/NiMH/Energizer-NiMH-2300.jpg> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/NiMH/Duracelll-NiMH-2050.jpg> Note the increase in capacity after each run. I didn't bother checking how many charge/discharge cycles were needed to bring it to full capacity, but my astute guess(tm) is 3 or 4. I also haven't bothered to research the chemistry behind the phenomenon. I probably should also test some LSD (low self discharge) NiMH batteries, such as Eneloop. I also should get off the computah and do something useful.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Nov 17 12:53PM -0500 Per Jeff Liebermann: >I probably >should also test some LSD (low self discharge) NiMH batteries, such as >Eneloop. I also should get off the computah and do something useful.   I only read about Eneloop after I had ordered these things.   Something like a factor of six or something improvement in self-discharge..... and I wish I had known beforehand....   Self-discharge seems like the major drawback to NiMH: you need it, you haven't used it for awhile, and it's not there when you need it. -- Pete Cresswell

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Nov 17 11:19AM -0800 In article <79qm4bp53prc8nnvska024fufrhg8hp2lq@4ax.com>,   >>should also test some LSD (low self discharge) NiMH batteries, such as >>Eneloop. I also should get off the computah and do something useful.   I noted a similar phenomenon with the Eneloop (and similar) low-self- discharge NiMH cells I've bought. They do benefit from a few full charge-discharge cycles if they've been sitting around for a year or so without use.   >I only read about Eneloop after I had ordered these things.   >Something like a factor of six or something improvement in >self-discharge..... and I wish I had known beforehand....   Yeah, it makes a big difference for "standby" applications.   >Self-discharge seems like the major drawback to NiMH: you need it, you >haven't used it for awhile, and it's not there when you need it.   There's a tradeoff. The low-self-discharge NiMH cells have a lower capacity than "standard" ones of the same form-factor. I've seen differences of 20-25% in practice. For high-quality AA cells, the low-self-discharge ones I've bought tend to top out at around 2000 mAh, while "standard" versions from the same manufacturer run up to 2400-2500 or so.   So, if you tend to charge your NiMH cells and then use them immediately (e.g. taking lots of photographs while on a trip) standard cells are the way to go. For "standby" applications, low-self- discharge cells work out better.

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Nov 17 08:54PM On Mon, 16 Nov 2015 21:48:27 -0600, Jon Elson wrote: >> the shelf ? > How about swapping them out in the device every couple months? That might > preserve them. I think if one is just left sitting, it will go bad.   That's what I do with the AA batteries (ENELOOPs) I use in several cameras. Each camera uses 2 of'em, and I mark pairs of batteries with unique colored bands of magic markers (sharpies). I keep the pairs together -- in the cameras, during charging, in storage. I regularly rotate the sets via recharging.   Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux 38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD * Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Nov 17 09:11PM "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote in message news:ojuk4b1nkoqobks5tokapthppmi95igjvc@4ax.com...   > Fully-charged ?   > As they came in the box ?   > Something else ?....   As someone else suggested - rotate them in use.   Nickel batteries thrive on use, it was certainly the case with cadmium - probably less so with Mh.   Even the allegedly low self discharge types self discharge, so they'll end up flat in storage wherever they start off from, I have a suspicion that stored fully charged may be more prone to whisker shorts.   A while back, the Lidl discount store had "ready to use" Ni-Mh cells, so I bought a load. A pair of cells fresh out of the charger for my camera, lasted just long enough to charge the flash - then the camera shut down with low battery warning. Rotating the cells through other uses has improved their performance.

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Nov 17 05:32PM -0500 Per Dave Platt: >immediately (e.g. taking lots of photographs while on a trip) standard >cells are the way to go. For "standby" applications, low-self- >discharge cells work out better.   I guess the truly-obsessive could look at a chart of the self-discharge, note where 20-25% happens, and then choose one or the other type battery based on one's expectation of how long they will sit before use.   viz: http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/eneloop/graph.gif (from http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/sanyo_eneloop.html)   Looks like the crossover point happens after about 20 days and the regular ones need re-charging on a monthly basis to assure 50% capacity when needed. -- Pete Cresswell

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Nov 17 12:59PM -0500 In article <0clk4bptiatrincd97uo1uikgh4oovkonh@4ax.com>,   > I want to replace it. Is there an optimum length for such a wire? Is > that measured from the variable capacitor? (I haven't opened this > radio yet, but that's where I usually see antenna wires connected.)   Micky-   As others have stated, it is not critical. For nearby stations, it may work without the wire!   The wire you want to replace would ideally be one quarter wavelength long. But that length would be "ideal" at only one frequency. So whatever you choose is a compromise.   Suppose the FM band covers the range of 88 to 108 MHz. The middle of the band would be 98 MHz. A wavelength would be 300/98 = 3.06 Meters. A quarter wavelength would be 76.5 CM or 30.1 inches.   Fred

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Nov 17 12:37PM -0800 Fred:   When would it be appropiate to use a half-wavelength or quarter as the dimension of the antenna being built?

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