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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 13 02:49PM +0100 On 13/07/2016 13:49, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:   > My Satco strip seems to blow its individual internal mini-transformers behind the bulb about every other time the bulb blows. I also have an Ikea fitting supporting three 12v halogen bulbs on which the bulbs dont blow as often but the whole supporting transformer seems to blow every few years.   > Much perceived wisdom online seems to date back a few years to the dawn of LED bulbs, when specs (heat? heat dissipation? colour temperature? lumens? current used? etc) were all over the place and I am wondering whether these have settled down yet so that I can just replace the halogens with LED bulbs using similar (or internally adjusted) current? Or does that still entail only buying the most expensive, - eg Philips, - bulbs?   > Or if the current or heat draw which causes the el-cheapo transformer in the track lighting units and the Ikea unit to blow is substantially less for LED bulbs, can I render those transformers MORE reliable by putting LEDs in and adding (say) one or two bulbs to the Ikea unit to compensate for the lower current draw?   As far as the architectural colouring of LED lamps, ie too blue. As the lamps push forward little heat , its quite easy to tone down the blue by overcoating the glass front with thin red,pink,or orange "filter". Have a go initially with red felt tip pen and then when you get the right sort of pink/orange chromacity for the room, go to a specialist artist supply shop/stationers with a good range of acetate/polyester? A4 overlay/cover sheet material and cut out discs and fit over the LED clusters. Because of the small dimensions of halogen bulbs compared to hot wire, much higher probability of plasma arc creation at the point of fauilure of a bulb, ie near enough full short circuit at the point of blowing, so collateral damage

Amanda Ripanykhazov <dmanzaluni@gmail.com>: Jul 13 08:09AM -0700 > much higher probability of plasma arc creation at the point of fauilure > of a bulb, ie near enough full short circuit at the point of blowing, so > collateral damage   Yes, I figured that there was some heat related reason why the halogens were blowing so often and taking the transformers with them and i keep a stock of them in reserve. But can I render those transformers MORE reliable by putting LEDs in and adding (say) one or two bulbs to the (open bulb type) Ikea unit IF I NEED to compensate for the lower current draw? Or is that such an oversimplification that it renders the premise wrong?

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jul 13 09:40AM -0700 On 07/13/2016 6:49 AM, N_Cook wrote: > much higher probability of plasma arc creation at the point of fauilure > of a bulb, ie near enough full short circuit at the point of blowing, so > collateral damage   Or it could simply be that the design life of the small switching supplies have reached their planed EOL and the capacitors are failing taking all the other magic smoke emitting parts with them...   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 13 07:44AM -0700 On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 20:21:30 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."   >http://i.cubeupload.com/34bCaq.jpg   Um... "NO START WITHOUT STARTING DEVICE" :-\

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 13 02:54PM +0100 Been in there and resoldered , still intermittant. Don't think its a break inside the power lead. Seems to be in an annular sense, if the line "plug" lays in one "o'clock" angle then contact breaks. Tried cleaning plug and socket of coarse,and contact treatment oil and nothing obviously wrong with line plug plating/surface, but before trying to replace plug and socket , what to try?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 13 03:03AM -0700 > >"** There is simply no silver oxide formed at room temp. "   > Unless you got some qualifiers for that statement, it is not true   ** Use Google and find out.       > If true, what is that shit on my silver candy bowl ?     ** As already explained, it's "Silver Sulphate" or Ag2S !!!       > I would still not use anything that is not residue free on a tube socket.   ** A comment about you, not the topic. How silly.       > There can be conductive stuff in the dust in the air and it > can stick to the oil residue. So maybe the oil is not conductive > but the resulting goop is. It really does depend on what you're cleaning.   ** So you have not tried it and have no idea.   Just like all the other half wit, WD40 paranoids         .... Phil

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Jul 13 09:27PM +1000 On 12/07/2016 05:19, Ralph Mowery wrote: > using some of the Deoxit on the switch. Would that be ok or not.   > I would hate to mess up the switches as they would be almost impossiable > to find replacements for .   The little fork-shaped things that touch the PCB are exposed to dust in those scopes. If you put any kind of lubricant, that will probably collect more dust and increase your problems. I think that is why Tek recommends a cleaner that leaves no residue that the dust could get stuck to. Why not try what Tek recommended, especially if it is still available (non-CFC).   Often on the 475 (I guess similar) the input attenuator things would have bad contact with the sockets that they are in. Just unplugging them and re-plugging them (one at a time so as not to mix them up) usually cures that, though I am willing to believe that some contact cleaner wiped just on the attenuator pins (not sprayed everywhere) might help since dust shouldn't get in there.   Chris

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 13 05:24AM -0700 On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 2:07:56 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:     > Products like WD40 are certain to cause no leakage.   Funny thing about WD40 (W-ater D-isplacement, 40th try). Unlike most of the similar formulations discussed here, it is truly 100% volatile, but the time it takes to volatilize varies based on temperature and environment (humidity and so forth) can be from a few minutes to several days. But, the very light mineral oil (stoddard solvent/ultra-refined kerosene) in with the propellants does evaporate before it decays (oxidizes). And it is the decay products that can turn into a sticky mess, attract dust and otherwise cause havoc.   Most of the "badness" attributed to WD40 is from residual scum that is softened by the WD40, distributed throughout the system, and then rehardens into that sticky mess when the WD goes away. Wasn't that way before, therefore it is *because of* and *due to* the WD... This is the fallacy of post hoc, ergo propter hoc, and the brute reality is that _Not Enough_ WD was used to remove the scum entirely. Spray it on. Let it sit for 5 -10 minutes, rinse and repeat. Might be twice, might be three times, but eventually the part will be clean. No threat to plastics, no threat to metals, won't attack graphite binders...   Guys and gals, the stuff may be purchased in anything from small pocket spray cans to 55 gallon drums. Use a rechargeable spray can and one has an excellent solvent for pennies the ounce. When I get into that level of use, I put an inch of kitty litter in the bottom of a trash can, and spray away. Nothing goes into the ground, there is no sticky mess, and the litter is dry by the next day anyway.   On silver - back in the day when coal was burnt for everything from heat to steel making to transportation to making Carbon Monoxide (town gas) for lighting, there was a LOT of sulphur in the air. And the servants were ALWAYS polishing the "plate" as it would turn dark very nearly overnight. Things are cleaner now, and it takes several days to nearly never. But silver oxides do not form at room temperature naturally. Full stop. I keep a pre-amp that uses silver contacts and wipers on several of the pots and switches inside. They are nearly as bright as when new, not much gets inside the 'box' to cause problems. Funny thing - it was a "cheap" preamp back in the day.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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