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Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Aug 09 07:57AM -0500 On Mon, 8 Aug 2016 11:11:17 -0400, "J.B. Wood" >hook. Ditto for any one of the 3 extensions sharing the line. This >morning, Monday, the phone line was operating as expected. Very >mysterious goings on here. Sincerely,   Did it rain just before your phones stop working? I went through the scenarios that you describe for years with AT&T before the tech. told me the buried line had water in it and that they won't replace it. Had to go to an internet phone service.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 09 10:15AM -0400 In article <4jkjqb13q07on0ghfjognqs2r9icbhjt7l@4ax.com>, chuck@mydeja.net says... > me the buried line had water in it and that they won't replace it. Had > to go to an internet phone service.   > ---   About 8 years ago I had a phone line that had a lot of noise on it. They had to put in around 200 feet of burried line to get to my house. They did that at no cost to me.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Aug 09 11:00AM -0400 On 08/09/2016 08:57 AM, Chuck wrote:   > scenarios that you describe for years with AT&T before the tech. told > me the buried line had water in it and that they won't replace it. Had > to go to an internet phone service.   No but it was awfully humid out. It still seems strange that the called party (the problem phone line) would indicate the line in use (busy signal) to the calling party when all phones on the problem line were on-hook. As I previously stated, taking any one of the 3 phone extensions off-hook results in a definite "click" like you get right before the dial tone comes on. Of course in this case you never got a dial tone. All DTMF pads appeared to operate as expected. Sincerely,     -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

Bennett <bjprice@cal.berkeley.edu>: Aug 09 09:40AM -0700 On 8/9/2016 8:00 AM, J.B. Wood wrote: > extensions off-hook results in a definite "click" like you get right > before the dial tone comes on. Of course in this case you never got a > dial tone. All DTMF pads appeared to operate as expected. Sincerely,   Perhaps, next time it happens, disconnect the phones one by one. You might have an intermittent phone causing the problem.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Aug 08 01:18PM -0400

LINDA B <fusionist4@gmail.com>: Aug 09 12:09AM -0700 > Check for a small transformer that delivers a 5V standby voltage. There may be poor solder connections around that area. No standby, no CPU and no control. The 5V will drive a crystal that is what the CPU is based upon. Even the chassis button is read by the CPU.   > Dan   Thank you, i'll try this after I get done checking on the outside.

LINDA B <fusionist4@gmail.com>: Aug 09 12:15AM -0700 On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 1:15:29 PM UTC-4, Michael Black wrote:   > It's not unlike many a digital camera, that has some button cells for > housekeeping in addition to the AA batteries needed for actual operation.   > Michael   Thank you, i didn't even think of AA or button cells. If it takes those and they became corroded or slipped, or just old, it would be a problem. I must investigate.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 09 04:46AM -0700 >"I'm new here so I don't really know all the info I should post. >Before I do anything to this radie i'd like to get a few >suggestions, please. TIA. "   This is an unmoderated Usenet newsgroup which means you can post anything you want, even threaten someone, but they can find you and if, well you know the rest. I mean if you are a registered CCW you probably are better off threatening the government. Anyone on the internet can read what you post.   >"I have a jvc rv-b99gy Kaboom boom box that once turned off will not >turn on again with the power button or remote."   This is not good. It does not sound like bad filters or anything easy like that. Sounds like a software problem, or, as I found recently a hidden problem in the CD drive screwing up the whole system. I work on Karaoke players and if the CD drive gets into a knipshit it can confuse the microprocessor.   In those cases, unplugging can work, like it did for you.   In this case I don't know what to tell you. Just watch for mechanical problems first and then for bad filters. That usually works the best these days.

Chet Kincaid <chet@notarealemail.com>: Aug 08 06:58PM -0500 DC is more problematic to switch than AC and a switch or relay designed for AC must be derated (often massively) to use with DC.   But what about the reverse?   I have an automotive type relay rated 40A at 14V.   That should handle 10A (actually less) at 120VAC okay, yes?   Consequence of either failure to open or failure to close is near zero (maybe a little wasted electricity). But I don't want it burning up either. I would think something with a 40A DC rating is, if anything, overkill. But the voltage is higher. However, I cannot imagine that the contacts are left close enough together that the 120V (170Vpp) is an issue as they'd be more likely to draw out and sustain an arc when used on the DC it was designed for. So I think I am good.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Aug 09 12:39PM +1000 On 9/08/2016 9:58 AM, Chet Kincaid wrote: > contacts are left close enough together that the 120V (170Vpp) is an issue > as they'd be more likely to draw out and sustain an arc when used on the DC > it was designed for. So I think I am good.   **In that case, it is all about insulation quality. Google the relay on line and see what the manufacturer rates it for on AC. Personally, I would not muck about with a relay which is not rated for mains. Relays are cheap. House fires, not so much.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 08 08:52PM -0700 Chet Kincaid wrote:     > But what about the reverse?   > I have an automotive type relay rated 40A at 14V.   > That should handle 10A (actually less) at 120VAC okay, yes?   ** As far as the contacts are concerned, you are probably correct.   But relays have another job which is to safely isolate the coil connections from the switched circuit.   There is no guarantee that a relay specified for use in an automotive, 12V DC environment is suitably insulated for connection to the AC supply - where spike voltages in the thousands occur.     .... Phil

Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Aug 08 04:54PM -0400 Danny D. posted for all of us...       > Good to know.   > I'll never buy *another* whirlpool/kenmore then. > :)   It used to be that IIRC the first three digits of the model number would tell one the manufacturer. DAGS   -- Tekkie

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Aug 08 03:01PM -0500 > There were so many choices for best sound quality smart phone.   I just put together a system with a PC running Asterisk/FreePBX and Snom 300 phones. There's a guy selling Snom 300's for $5 on eBay. While it may not have quite broadcast studio sound, it is way better than the analog PBX we had before. I'm really happy with them.   Jon

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