- Yamaha CDV-1600 LD player - 2 Updates
- Batteries - 4 Updates
- Think twice before you buy Duracell batteries - 1 Update
| Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Oct 10 10:06PM Anybody here know the correct belt sizes or part numbers for a Yamaha CVD-1600 CD/laserdisc player? I need both belts, one for tray mechanism and other for the laser assembly. One belt melted the other disintegrated. Worst case, I can measure and guestimate once getting an worthwhile belt order in place (might as well do the tape deck and VCRs at the same time). |
| Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Oct 11 01:29PM > assembly. One belt melted the other disintegrated. > Worst case, I can measure and guestimate once getting an worthwhile belt > order in place (might as well do the tape deck and VCRs at the same time). It's probably a CDV-1600, not CVD. http://www.target.com/p/rubber-bands-assort-sizes-7-4oz-up/-/A-16603894 Go find that, pick out a couple that comes close, make sure the rest of the unit works, then waste time trying to find real belts. Even with OEM part numbers in hand, you still aren't going to find them. I never remember seeing belt sizes listed in the service manuals for any player. So if the originals are that bad, get the Target universal belt kit, find the ones that come the closest, make measurements while fresh then track down a proper source. If they are just loading belts, you can probably leave the rubberbands in and just replace them every few months. Don't laugh at that Target option, the dime sized ones in the collection work great on those drawer model cd/dvd burners for computers. I got one in my Pioneer burner from 2005 and it's been like 2 years now. It'll be the best $1.87 you ever spent. -bruce bje@ripco.com |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Oct 10 01:29PM -0400 > dead-shorted. Fuse action is not voltage dependent (as long as the > fuse is rated at a higher voltage than the application). > Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Sure, but if it ever had enough torque to start up against the load, that amount of current wouldn't blow the fuse. Of course it might be a super slow blow variety that eventually went, but saying that the current went up because the voltage went down makes no sense unless it's using a SMPS. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
| mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Oct 10 08:39PM +0100 In article <9pNKz.1780400$SA.1285948@fx44.am4>, >Would the workshop receive more money if they decide that the batteries >need replacing, even if the batteries are ok? This. It's also why some dealers advocate that, for best life on the Lead Acid batteries, you should always run them fully down, before recharging them. Is it ignorance, or just a way to ensure you hammer the batteries into the ground? At which point they can sell you new ones at ridiculous markup, as "specialist items" which can't be bought elsewhere ... -- --------------------------------------+------------------------------------ Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net --- |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 10 01:15PM -0700 On Monday, October 10, 2016 at 1:29:43 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: > super slow blow variety that eventually went, but saying that the > current went up because the voltage went down makes no sense unless it's > using a SMPS. Phil: Here is the scenario: a) Go-Buggy has what passes for a full charge, and off the rider goes. b) At some point, the battery starts to "run down". Voltage drops. c) There is a magic moment when the battery *cannot* put out enough current (combination of voltage *and* amps) to start the motor under load. Say, a small hill. d) As this very cheap device has a brush-type DC motor, the battery is now dead-shorted across the fuse. As you suggest, that fuse is likely a very slow blow device, also rated well over the actual 'normal' operating current. It is designed to protect real-estate vs. the device. e) *POOF* goes the fuse, along with, effectively, the battery. It is not so much that the current went up. The battery DEAD SHORTED. Try it yourself. Get an inexpensive 12V DC brush-type motor. Feed it with a sealed lead-acid battery and measure the current. Get a fuse at 3X that rating. Clamp the motor shaft so that it cannot turn. Turn on the power. *POOF*. Even if the battery is on its last legs, making say.... 9V, the amount of current a lead-acid battery can put out is pretty massive even then... Again, this is a BRUSH-TYPE motor. http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/mobility/mobility-categories/mobility-motor-brushes Nor are the controllers much of anything. http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-500w-universal-voltage-speed-controller-electric.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw-Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1Ng1V4nwBAwzbh5tSNZhx9L3pzhUoUS8FAgGRm4MG7RoC42bw_wcB I pay more for my R/C submarine control devices - which do have current limiters and also high-temp shutoff capacity. And a fail-safe that blows ballasts tanks and 'floats the boat'. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 10 08:17PM -0700 Phil Hobbs wrote: > super slow blow variety that eventually went, but saying that the > current went up because the voltage went down makes no sense unless it's > using a SMPS. ** Battery current goes up with diminishing voltage due the actions of the driver increasing the throttle setting and so the duty cycle of the PWM drive. The fuse copes with normal start up since it has a long thermal time constant. But if the motor is unable to get the scooter moving for any reason and the driver increases the throttle to full, the time constant is soon exceeded. Also, most SLA batteries incorporate an internal fuse as a last line of defence against a short or near short. This is also slow acting and just maybe was the culprit in the OP's example. I have some experience with SLA and wet cell batteries used with a 12V starter motors for RC boats using high performance, glow plug engines. This involves putting a severe load on the battery for a few seconds at a time, sometimes pulling the terminal voltage down to near half if the engine is flooded with fuel. SLA battery life was fairly short used in this way, so I eventually upgraded to a 40AH maintenance free car battery with a 20A in-line blade fuse for safety. The fuse kept popping so got replaced with a domestic AC supply circuit breaker, also rated at 20 amps. This was *perfect* as it protected the battery from a dead short ( 2kA breaking capacity ), rarely opened in normal use and when it did could be reset in 2 seconds. .... Phil |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 10 09:48AM -0700 On Sat, 8 Oct 2016 22:50:39 -0000 (UTC), Roger Blake >> least. >I get very good service by sticking with major brands like Toceba, >Dinacell, and Sorny, available at a discount at local flea markets. I have the incurable habit of mangling company and product brand names. DuraSmell, NeverReady, SoniPanic, Pray-o-Vac, Power-on-sick, YuGuessAh, Farta, AlteredState, Exhide, etc[1]. [1] Translation: Duracell, Eveready, Panasonic, Ray-o-Vac, Power Sonic, Yuasa, Varta, All State, Exide. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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