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Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Dec 12 01:08PM -0500 In article <o2hdbj$j5m$1@gioia.aioe.org>, > temperatures are correct.   > Please tell me where to look and what I can do.   > TIA   There can be condensation on the outside of a refrigerator. To prevent that, there once were low power heating elements installed near the door seals. In my experience, those elements eventually went bad.   My current refrigerator is about 15 years old, and has had the condensation problem for the past few years. While it may be possible to replace the heating elements, it is time I got a new refrigerator.   Searching the web, I found this: <http://www.applianceaid.com/heat-around-refrigerator-door.php> It indicates the electrical heaters were replaced by a different method, but does not mention when.   Fred

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Dec 13 02:23PM On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 09:17:32 -0800, AIOEUSER <AIOEUSER@AIOEUSER.com> wrote:   >temperatures are correct.   >Please tell me where to look and what I can do.   >TIA   I had a fitted fridge that dripped a lot. It was a basic design fault. The evaporator could not keep up. Too cold vs too warm. I moved the evaporator by brute force so it caught the drops more efficiently. It then worked. Thirty years later we moved house! I assume it still works or has been replaced.   Steve   -- Neural Network Software for Windows http://www.npsnn.com

mhooker32@gmail.com: Dec 12 06:13PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 at 9:12:56 PM UTC-5, Michael Terrell wrote:   > They don't get mad.   > They don't get even.   > They go for over unity! ;-)   would have to know what type of alternator it is. many with an internal regulator need a positive voltage thru a resistor to charge at an idle. on many units, the resistor was the bulb in the idiot lite on the dash. units with gages had a resistor wired in. i dont recall the specs on the resistor. without that connection, there would be no charge at idle. the regulator would kick in at around 2000 rpm and charge. it would then charge fine at an idle , until the regulator cut out. with that load thru a bulb or resistor, the regulator doesnt need 2000 rpm to cut in.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 13 06:53AM -0500 >> They don't get even.   >> They go for over unity! ;-)   > would have to know what type of alternator it is. many with an internal regulator need a positive voltage thru a resistor to charge at an idle. on many units, the resistor was the bulb in the idiot lite on the dash. units with gages had a resistor wired in. i dont recall the specs on the resistor. without that connection, there would be no charge at idle. the regulator would kick in at around 2000 rpm and charge. it would then charge fine at an idle , until the regulator cut out. with that load thru a bulb or resistor, the regulator doesnt need 2000 rpm to cut in.       Some alternators have a sing stud to connect to the battery. The regulator has no external connections in that type. I have repaired failed alternators on my vehicles since the early '70s.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Dec 13 08:55AM "Nightlight" wrote in message news:99c3d$584e99ed$43de0cc0$17812@news.flashnewsgroups.com...   Hi,   I received this desk in bits, literally, in a huge bag and have slowly been rebuilding it. There were a number of different revision boards probably from other studiomaster desks in the bag also.   The modules I,ve used in the desk are as follows   Control/graphics R1A8 - 2   Power amps R1A5 - 4   Aux board R1A9 - 1   PSU R1A1 - 4   Insert pcb R1A3 - 4     The problem I have is no sound from the power amps.   I have traced the l&r signals from the "Amp" volume control on the Aux board to CONN 2 (14W) pins 9 and 10 which then goes via ribbon cable to the control/graphics board CONN 6 pins 9&10 labeled as *AMP-L* and *AMP-R*.   According to the many studiomaster schematics I managed to find the signal then leaves the control/gfx board via CONN 2 a 14 WAY to the insert board and PSU board for splitting to the power amps.   Thing is, CONN 2 on the c/g board is 16 WAY, it has to be as the connectors on the insert board and psu are also 16 WAY and here lies the problem.   The power amps are expecting the I/P on their CONN 1's pins 9&10 ( IN- , IN+ ) Not AMP-L ( or AMP-R )!!!   I was thinking the c/g board was the wrong revision. The only schematics I have for the C/G board are for R8C8B-3.   Any ideas folks?   thank you,   Night...     ____   --             From memory, I think it is actually possible to fit a ribbon cable in the wrong place on these. Check carefully what connectors you have and what cables you have, you might have a cable missing?   Anyway, also from memory, the very longest cable that could be put in the wrong place is used for the very longest run between any two sockets it can fit in. The next longest follows the next longest possible route.   There is a small MIDI board on the bottom corner at the back of the unit, which has a connector in use, maybe you've missed that?       Cheers,     Gareth.

kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey): Dec 12 06:25PM -0500 >that the tubes sticking out had leaks.   >It would have been cheaper to just replace the damn things, instead of >doing all those expensive smoke tests, which was your point, I agree!   First of all, if you'd had a competent BMW mechanic, he would have replaced it before it failed.   Secondly, when it DID fail, he would have looked at that and at the hose underneath it as the first things that cause leaks into the throttle body.   Thirdly, if he didn't know any of these things, it should have taken him less than five minutes to find the leak with a can of starting fluid. There is ABSOLUTELY NO EXCUSE for someone to bring out the smoke machine for that sort of leak unless they are trying really hard to find ways to bill their customers for something.   This is an EXACT example of what I am talking about when I say that doing maintenance is cheaper than doing repairs.     >I *always* adjust that, either to *off* or to the midway position.   >But what I always wondered was, if the blower is on at all, whether the >full on, or midway position caused less stress on the FSU?   If you have it on full, the transistor is completely turned on and so there is less heat being generated in that configuration. However, if you have to worry about what position of the heater puts less stress on it, something is wrong. Put a retrofit one in there and it won't fail.     >The ABS "trifecta" failing on the E38, E39, and E46 is also shameful. >So is the trunk wiring loom fraying on almost every vehicle. >And the headlight adjusters crumbling on some of the models like mine.   ABS I don't know about... but everybody knows about the loom so everybody wraps it. If yours wasn't wrapped, it will fail.   Likewise the headlight assemblies can be replaced with European spec ones in some cases, which don't fail. It's only the wacky DOT ones for the American market that are an issue.   >> I'm just a guy who likes to drive cars for a long time, and I like BMWs   >Thanks for your insight. >Very interesting!   I just rolled over 360,000 miles on the new car this afternoon. Should have it at 400,000 before 2018 starts. --scott   -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Dec 12 06:35PM We have several laptops that are rarely used. As best I can find, it is fatal to a Li Ion battery to go completely dead, and that has often happened on our laptops. Three of our relatively new laptops are a Thinkpad, Dell, and an HP. I observe that the charge light on the laptop goes off at some point. The HP charger which feels hot when charging, feels cold to the touch when the charge light goes off.   It seems to me tht the charging circuits in the laptops are smart enough to leave the chargers plugged in all the time.   I would appreciate comments from anyone who has adopted a similar charging strategy.   Thanks.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 12 10:38AM -0800 On 2016/12/12 10:35 AM, root wrote:   > I would appreciate comments from anyone who has adopted > a similar charging strategy.   > Thanks.   I leave all my laptops plugged in when in use and tend to get batteries that last five or more years. Obviously they are used from time to time on batteries, but we mostly use these in our shop as semi-desktop machines that are portable. I take mine home every night for example, the rest are left wherever the staff last used them (cable locks).   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 12 11:16AM -0800 On Monday, December 12, 2016 at 1:35:05 PM UTC-5, root wrote:   > It seems to me that the charging circuits in the laptops > are smart enough to leave the chargers plugged in all > the time.   They are. My laptop stays plugged in all the time except when I am traveling. And then, I usually get somewhere between 5 and 7 hours of use without problems. The computer is 2 years old at this moment.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Dec 13 09:58AM +1100 On 13/12/16 05:38, John Robertson wrote: > on batteries, but we mostly use these in our shop as semi-desktop > machines that are portable. I take mine home every night for example, > the rest are left wherever the staff last used them (cable locks).   Same.

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