- Advice requested from those of you who have successfully checked camber at home - 19 Updates
- Way OT Refrigerator - 4 Updates
- Technics SU-Z55 transformer - 2 Updates
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 10 04:05PM -0500 clare@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us... > combined with a very tight grip on your money (although how that goes > along with driving a wiener wagon, I cannot for the life of me figure > out) +1 and gaining BMW=$$$ -- Tekkie |
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 10 04:25PM -0500 clare@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us... > That depends whether it is at 12.5 inches, 12.5 feet, or 12.5 > miles....... > You REALLY need to study your high-school math. +5 and high school math... He could go back to school and learn all this for less bux than he wasted-not to mention our time. Drive it to the BMW shop and tell them you want it set to the preferred settings. Make certain all your bushings and arms and their esoterically named crap is brand new because as it wears it will change. Don't hit any curbs, potholes, driveways, obstructions of any sort, or drive it period. Better get new springs too as they will sag and take everything out of the trunk. If it's a convertible weld some stiffeners along the top. Have your partner and you control their weight. Fill up with gas first. Get all pebbles, stones and other safarcus out of the treads. Make certain the tire pressure is within a 10/th of a pound. I am sure I am forgetting something... -- Tekkie |
| Bill Vanek <bilvanek2@invalid.com>: Dec 10 01:29PM -0800 On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 16:25:35 -0500, Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net> wrote: >pebbles, stones and other safarcus out of the treads. Make certain the tire >pressure is within a 10/th of a pound. I am sure I am forgetting >something... I too am starting to wonder if this guy is nuts, or maybe just a troll. There is some very simple math involved here. |
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 10 04:33PM -0500 Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us... > I prefer not potentially clutter things here. > FYI, you won't be the first to call me an asshole today so don't be so > proud when you do so. Aw shucks, I wasn't even thinking of doing that... It's Saturday so should I just do it to keep the quota? -- Tekkie |
| nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Dec 10 04:34PM -0500 In article <ooso4ctsk0s8n1f861cesgal13ufn35hf7@4ax.com>, Bill Vanek > >something... > I too am starting to wonder if this guy is nuts, or maybe just a > troll. could be both. > There is some very simple math involved here. and some common sense. |
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 10 04:36PM -0500 clare@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us... > has not gortten through to you. Stop being a cheap-assed wannabee, > find a good mechanic - and TRUST HIM. Pay him what the job is worth. > If you can't afford to proain a bimmer, drive a bloody Chevy!! Letz see up to +127 ? -- Tekkie |
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 10 04:38PM -0500 nospam posted for all of us... > buy another > > My bimmer always breaks. > sell it or give it away Yeah, some single mother needs this to stimulate the economy. -- Tekkie |
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 10 04:42PM -0500 John Harmon posted for all of us... > wrong (which is almost never) simply because Toyota knows something BMW > doesn't know, which is how to design a complete vehicle. > But all this is OT. The BMW sounds like a great value... Have you considered having it bronzed? -- Tekkie |
| kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey): Dec 10 05:16PM -0500 > 1. The cooling system (mostly the idiotic plastic expansion tank) > 2. The DISA valve (mostly an idiotic plastic flap pin) > 3. The window regulators (two idiotic plastic rollers) Many of these are known problems. Things like the cooling system you need to plan to replace, and not just the expansion tank but also the thermostat body. You may want to consider one of the aftermarket water pumps that do not fail also, when it comes time to do your next water pump replacement. If you haven't replaced your air plenum, you're probably about time for doing that to do. Do it before it fails. These are _maintenance_ items that you know are going to fail, not _repair_ items that you fix when they break. You know it's going to happen, deal with it before it fails. > 8. AC control (idiotic FSU/FSR blows its mosfets time and time again) There's an aftermarket retrofit for this also. > 9. CCV (aka PCV) (idiotic design creates mayonaise in cold weather locales) There'a sheet on that one. you're supposed to clean it when you change your oil. And yes, you're supposed to change your oil often. Follow the extreme service schedule in the book or get the "old school maintenance" schedule from the BMWCCA. > 19. Power steering leaks (idiotic design of the I6 hoses & V8 brackets) > 20. The front shocks were toast within its first year (warranty fix) > Plus assorted standard maintenance (belts, clutch, fluids, brakes, etc.). Again, a lot of these are maintenance items, others (like the wood trim) I haven't heard of. You should be on your third set of windshield molding by now if you are replacing it according to normal schedule and keeping the car outside. The power steering leaks again are what you get if you don't purge the system annually like the manual says and don't change the hoses when they start to fail. By now you should have replaced every rubber part under the hood at least once. If you haven't replaced the pads in the shock towers and the differential mount, do them now. > the BMW is a pain in the ass to repair whenever something does go wrong, > and things go wrong a lot because BMW doesn't know how to design a complete > car but the handling is phenominal and the engine is bulletproof. Most of these things that went wrong are things that a mechanic familiar with the vehicle should have expected to go wrong and should have taken care of before they went wrong. Yes, there's a lot of stuff to do every 3,000 miles including checking the rubber parts. Yes, there's a transmission fluid change and differential fluid change every 30,000 miles. Yes, you need to change your brake fluid every two years and your coolant every fall. There is a _lot_ of maintenance on these cars. Do maintenance and you will not have to do so many repairs. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 10:34PM Tekkie? actually said: > +5 and high school math... He could go back to school and learn all this for > less bux than he wasted-not to mention our time. The problem I have is confusion about where the triangles are for toe, and it has absolutely nothing to do with high school math since the trig involved is easy (soh, cah, toa) if we only knew where the triangles are. For example, total toe is specified in *degrees* of all things. http://i.cubeupload.com/cfaDWp.jpg Yet, total toe is simply the toe measured at the back of the wheel/tire combination minus the toe measured at the front of the wheel/tire combination, both of which are *linear* measurements. Since toe angles are the same no matter what size the wheel/tire combination, how can total toe be specified in degrees when it's measured in inches? Since the tire has the same angle the entire time, there is absolutely no difference in angle between a toe measured at the front of a wheel/tire and a toe measured at the back of that wheel/tire! So, sure, I'm confused because total toe is specified in degrees. But the confusion has nothing to do with high school trig. Summarized, if total toe is the difference between toe at the rear of the tire and toe at the front of the tire, yet, the angle of the wheel/tire combination to the centerline of the vehicle is the *same* no matter how large a wheel/tire combination is, then how the heck can total toe be specified in degrees? https://s23.postimg.org/ajrtf269n/10_total_toe_angles.gif |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 10:37PM Bill Vanek actually said: > I too am starting to wonder if this guy is nuts, or maybe just a > troll. There is some very simple math involved here. Hi Bill, If you can answer this question then it will show that you actually understand what you call *simple math*. Here is the question: https://s23.postimg.org/ajrtf269n/10_total_toe_angles.gif Summarized, that says: If total toe is the difference in toe between the rear and front of the tire, and if the difference in angles between the rear and the front of the tire are exactly the same (by definition, since the angle of the wheel/tire combination to the centerline of the car is the same no matter what size the wheel/tire combination is!), then how the heck can total toe be specified in degrees? |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 10:49PM Xeno actually said: > You might find these links useful > http://tinyurl.com/jdas8oy That is a nice total-toe-in-inches to degrees calculator, which takes into account wheel size, but I'm still a bit confused how total toe can *ever* be an angle, when the angle at the front of the wheel is exactly the same as the angle at the rear of the wheel? https://s23.postimg.org/ajrtf269n/10_total_toe_angles.gif It's not the math (the math is easy); it's the concept of total toe having anything whatsoever to do with degrees when it's merely the difference in toe between the front and rear of the tire when the angle at the front and the rear is (by virtue of straight lines) exactly the same! > http://tinyurl.com/jud2p3b In this case of converting toe angle to inches, it's much easier to visualize why single-wheel toe is specified in degrees. Here's a diagram I made which shows that concept, which I agree is very simple trig (soh cah toa): https://s18.postimg.org/fq07txfih/11_toe_is_a_triangle.gif > Note, if you alter camber, toe will alter and you will need to check and > adjust if required. Thanks. It seems that the order is "caster, camber, and then toe", in so much as the two vehicles I have (toyota, bmw) both specify that you adjust in that order. Caster affects camber which affects toe so that's why you do it in that direction. Intererstingly, from the standpoing of tire wear in normal settings, the same curve applies which is that caster affects tire wear less than does camber which affects tire wear less than does toe. So the order to think of the 3D axis are caster, camber, and toe (in that order) for the x, y, and z axis. |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 10:56PM tlvp actually said: > So don't measure in inches. If you have tools to measure camber in degrees, > you can surely repurpose them to measure toe-in in degrees also, no? Let's think about what you just suggested. While what you said sounds easy, which is that if you can measure camber in degrees, why can't you measure toe in degrees, your truism ignores the simple unalterable but very basic fact that the tool uses *gravity* to measure angles. That is, gravity-based tools work fine for measuring camber. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3027/3025271110_ffee13e89e.jpg But how are you going to shift gravity by 90 degrees in order to measure toe the same way? |
| Bill Vanek <bilvanek2@invalid.com>: Dec 10 03:00PM -0800 On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 22:37:01 -0000 (UTC), John Harmon >the angle of the wheel/tire combination to the centerline of the car is the >same no matter what size the wheel/tire combination is!), then how the heck >can total toe be specified in degrees? I replied to your original question days ago, and you ignored that reply. Regardless of that, your questions have been answered repeatedly. Toe *is* an angle, but if you know the outside diameter of the tire, it can also be spec'd in inches, or any other linear measure. The conversion involves only the measure of sides of a triangle, which is really basic math. This is my original reply: Inches depends on the outside diameter of the tire: https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeDegreesToInches.htm Minutes to degrees can be found here: http://zonalandeducation.com/mmts/trigonometryRealms/degMinSec/degMinSec.htm Regarding the needed accuracy, it depends on exactly what you are trying to achieve. There is a wide range in camber that will not cause any meaningful tire wear. Toe is much more critical, including for overall feel at higher speeds, but you are also dealing with runout, and there really isn't any good way to adjust for that at home. The overall point is that even if you are off with the camber, the tires are not going to be worn out all that much earlier, so close can be good enough, especially if you bother with rotation. Toe is much more important, and if you want that exactly right, pay someone to do it right. You can get it close at home, but it's just luck if it's exactly right. You also have to keep in mind that a rear drive car's toe out will increase with speed, and a front drive car will do the opposite. There is plenty of slop in steering & suspension, and you will get varied readings, especially if you are not using turntables. Sometimes trying to save money is not such a good idea. At the same time, finding someone to do the job right can be a challenge, too. There's plenty of hacks out there. If all you care about is getting things close enough that there won't be ridiculously excessive tire wear, then have at it. But if you are trying to get things just right, both for handling and tire wear purposes, pay someone. |
| Bill Vanek <bilvanek2@invalid.com>: Dec 10 03:11PM -0800 On Sat, 10 Dec 2016 22:49:28 -0000 (UTC), John Harmon >anything whatsoever to do with degrees when it's merely the difference in >toe between the front and rear of the tire when the angle at the front and >the rear is (by virtue of straight lines) exactly the same! That is not at all what total toe means. 0 degrees of toe for a wheel is when the tire is exactly parallel to the centerline of the car (that is a simplification, but it's usable here). Toe is a measure of the variance in degrees from straight ahead. Total toe is merely they sum of the toe in degrees of both the left and right sides. So if the left is +2 degrees, and the right is -2 degrees, the total toe is 0 degrees. That means minimum tire wear (theoretically), but the steering wheel will be a bit off-center. The difference between the front and back of the tires is used only for distance measure, not angles. |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 11:33PM Scott Dorsey actually said: > to plan to replace, and not just the expansion tank but also the thermostat > body. You may want to consider one of the aftermarket water pumps that do > not fail also, when it comes time to do your next water pump replacement. Hi Scott, I'm extremely familiar with the BMW, but only you and I seem to know what we're talking about here. Unlike Tekkie, nospam, & Jeorg Lorens (who can only troll), I'm intimately familiar that the cooling system overhaul is a standard maintenance item on the E39, E38, and E46 (all of which use essentially the same Meyle and Nissan components) and I am also intimately familiar with the metal-vaned (petersburgh) water pumps. The gasket-less MAP thermostat isn't all that bad, but since the water pump has to be removed anyway, we replace them as a matter of course during the overhauls (I've done about four overhauls of my entire cooling system myself). We all have the special counterholding tools for the fan clutch removal and we often replace the mechanical or hydraulic tensioners (it's arbitrary which any one bimmer has) and serpentine belt at the same time since all that stuff has to come off anyway. We have it down to a science. In fact, most of us have replaced the expansion tank cap (I think the ORM is 1.2 bar but I'd have to look that up) with a lower pressure cap, which doesn't prevent anything from happening *other* than when it blows, it blows out the cap at a lower pressure so the expansion tank seams don't split. We also all know to keep the coolant level LOW (at or below the max at all times) since too many people overfill the expansion tank. Admittedly, when it's full, it *looks* empty but that is the way it was designed. > If you haven't replaced your air plenum, you're probably about time for > doing that to do. Do it before it fails. I appreciate the advice, but offhand I'm not sure what you're calling the "air plenum", but if you're talking about that idiotically designed DISA valve which moderates the intake manifold harmonics, I'm completely familiar with the DISA valve engineering flaws and have long ago replaced the innards with re-engineered ones from Gary at German Engineering (replace the plastic pin with titanium). > These are _maintenance_ items that you know are going to fail, not > _repair_ items that you fix when they break. You know it's going to happen, > deal with it before it fails. Again, you and I are probably the only people on this thread who understand what we're talking about so I'm extremely familiar which what breaks on the typical E39, E38, and E46 (which are all essentially the same depending on the years designed). >> 8. AC control (idiotic FSU/FSR blows its mosfets time and time again) > There's an aftermarket retrofit for this also. There are *tons* of aftermarket FSUs, but I'm not aware of any design change to any other component than the FSU itself. > oil. And yes, you're supposed to change your oil often. Follow the extreme > service schedule in the book or get the "old school maintenance" schedule > from the BMWCCA. This one I'm also intimately familiar with, simply because, if you know the bimmer, you know one of the most difficult standard jobs is to overhaul the CCV because it's in the middle of the engine so to speak. What we have all done is we have modified our oil dipstick tubes, because the CCV dumps cold oil into the dipstick tube, which hardens with contact with water vapor into the extremely badly designed teeny tiny concentric-circle space in the two-tubed dipstick. Also we've all changed the CCV components into the modified cold-weather ones (insulated) but they're a bear to put in because they're fatter and there's precious little room in the first place. Suffice to say that you and I are the only two people here who actually know what we're talking about (Tekkie, nospam, Jeorg, and a bunch of the other fools don't have a clue what we're talking about when they bash BMW). It's nice to know that there are some intelligent people here. Thanks for being intelligent! >> Plus assorted standard maintenance (belts, clutch, fluids, brakes, etc.). > Again, a lot of these are maintenance items, others (like the wood trim) > I haven't heard of. I left off a few things because that was an ad-hoc list, but just like the fact that *all* the cluster and MID pixels go bad, all the wood trim cracks. It's not actually the wood that cracks; it's the super thick coating of varnish on the outside that cracks. It's a warranty repair and I had all my wood trim replaced under warranty, but the replacement wood trim cracked just the same. It's a manufacturing and design flaw that they all have. > You should be on your third set of windshield molding by now if you are > replacing it according to normal schedule and keeping the car outside. The good news about the windshield molding is that it doesn't affect anything other than looks and noise. It's not a weather item so it doesn't keep out water. The bad news is that the Germans use too much recycled rubber, which is the problem with that windshield molding. Again, I'm impressed that you're the only one on this newgroup who knows what he is talking about with respect to bimmers. You'll find I know my model extremely well (probably better than almost any non mechanic you have ever met). That's because I "think" about what I'm doing. And I collaborate with others to learn from them. Which is the reason, after all, for this thread. > start to fail. By now you should have replaced every rubber part under > the hood at least once. If you haven't replaced the pads in the shock > towers and the differential mount, do them now. I have done an overhaul of the rubber from buna to viton long ago, and the worst were the SAP/SAS valves in the back of the intake manifold. They're impossible to get to under the best of circumstances. The power steering isn't so bad if you clean the power steering reservoir filter once every few oil changes with gasoline (most people don't know that it's even there) and if you replace the oetiker (sp?) clamps with standard hose clamps and replace the hoses. The V8 has special problems with the power steering pump bracket breaking, so a standard maintenance item is to check the bolts every oil change. The I6 isn't bleedable so you have to suck the fluid out the reservoir with a turkey baster, but it's not all that bad to do. It's just ATF Dexron IV (now Dexton VI since Dexron IV lost its copyright long ago). > Most of these things that went wrong are things that a mechanic familiar > with the vehicle should have expected to go wrong and should have taken > care of before they went wrong. I learned of all the issues by running into them and then learning how to re-engineer them. My point is that most of these known problems span models, so, BMW *knows* that they build crappy components but they don't fix them. So that's just bad engineering on BMW's part. All BMW cares about is the handling and performance, and, those components are engineered fantastically well. > fluid change every 30,000 miles. Yes, you need to change your brake fluid > every two years and your coolant every fall. There is a _lot_ of maintenance > on these cars. I disagree with *some* of what you just wrote. Most bimmer owners have learned NOT to change the "lifetime" transmission fluid for two key reasons. The first is that many people have had failures just *after* changing the fluid where the hypothesis is that "stuff" got mixed up and moved about (like crud). The second is that it's actually not trivial to change the transmission fluid because of the specific temperature requirements (which most people skip). Just like most people skip the 500 pounds of weight to set the ride height to "normal" when aligning the car, most people skip steps when changing the transmission fluid - and problems arise as a result. But I do agree that BMW used crappy BUNA rubber for things that get hot, such as the valve cover gasket (which fails on almost every engine!). BMW has since replaced BUNA with Viton but they didnt' tell their customers that so for years customers were replacing the buna VCG with another crappy buna VCG. > Do maintenance and you will not have to do so many repairs. > --scott BTW, are you the "Magnum" "Scott" of BMW fame? If so, we actually know each other and we have common friends who have both beemers and bimmers. Either way, it's a *pleasure* to speak with someone who is not only intelligent, but who knows what he's talking about (which most of the fools in this thread don't). |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 11:33PM Joerg Lorenz actually said: > The problem is obviously not the hardware; it is the user. Jeorg Lorenz, Why do you pollute this thread with your worthless OT drivel? You don't know the answer to *any* question asked. Not one. Yet, Jeorg Lorenz you pollute the thread nonetheless. |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 11:33PM nospam actually said: > only because you're too stupid to figure out how, particularly after > people repeatedly explain to you exactly how. nospam, Why do you constantly pollute this thread with your worthless drivel? You don't know the answer to *any* question asked in this thread. Not one. Yet, nospam, you pollute the thread nonetheless. |
| John Harmon <HarmonJohn@example.com>: Dec 10 11:33PM Tekkie? actually said: > The BMW sounds like a great value... Have you considered having it bronzed? Tekkie, Why do you constantly pollute this thread with your worthless drivel? You don't know the answer to *any* question asked. Not one. Yet, you pollute the thread nonetheless. |
| AIOEUSER <AIOEUSER@AIOEUSER.com>: Dec 10 09:17AM -0800 I do not know where to post this but there are plenty of smart forgiving folks here. My refrigerator occasionally pees water on the floor. I cannot figure out where it is coming from. It has a freezer with ice maker in the door on the left and fridge on the right. A Kenmore side-by-side model. Both seem to be working properly and a thermometer inside says temperatures are correct. Please tell me where to look and what I can do. TIA |
| Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Dec 10 05:27PM On 10/12/16 17:17, AIOEUSER wrote: > folks here. > My refrigerator occasionally pees water on the floor. > I cannot figure out where it is coming from. Binary chop. Turn the water off. You'll then find out if it's water from the ice maker, or defrosted water. > Both seem to be working properly and a thermometer inside says > temperatures are correct. > Please tell me where to look and what I can do. For defrosted water, down at the back inside, there is a drain hole. If it's blocked with mush then water is just finding another path to surprise you. Unblock. -- Adrian C |
| John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Dec 10 09:15AM -1000 On 12/10/2016 7:17 AM, AIOEUSER wrote: > temperatures are correct. > Please tell me where to look and what I can do. > TIA Age of the unit? Plastic tubing used these days becomes brittle and cracks. Tube to water dispenser [if you have one] or ice maker could be leaking. If there is a delay in water flowing to the water dispenser, you have found the issue. Or turn off the ice maker and see if that stops the leak. |
| MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Dec 10 07:39PM In article <eb2s8jF13r1U1@mid.individual.net>, email@here.invalid says... > For defrosted water, down at the back inside, there is a drain hole. > If it's blocked with mush then water is just finding another path to > surprise you. Unblock. The condensation is probably intended to drip onto an evaporation tray kept warm by being just above the compressor. I threaded a bit of wire through the tube that leads the water down there so I can unblock by giving it a wiggle. (A tacktick copied from "limber holes" in old boat bilges!) Mike. |
| frank <frank@invalid.net>: Dec 10 04:44PM > ** A sustained overload, high ambient temp or both will cause that. Isn't the overload likely to blow the main AC fuse? >> to some external equipment that is earthed. > ** One way to make the amp safe is to fit a 3 core AC lead to it and remove > the double square symbol. I'll do this. Thanks Frank |
| ohger1s@gmail.com: Dec 10 11:39AM -0800 On Saturday, December 10, 2016 at 11:46:00 AM UTC-5, frank wrote: > I'll do this. > Thanks > Frank The only reason that fuse opened was nuisance fatigue due to age and thermal cycling. Trust me on this. Of all the ones I've ever seen fail, every one was on an older piece. Never saw this fuse fail on warranty jobs. The few XFRs I've seen that actually did overheat showed signs of discoloration or burning on the winding wrap or darkening of the clear coat. I'll bet your transformer is as clean and bright as the day it went in. I always add a C14 socket to my older two wire equipment even though I've heard that it's not technically allowed to make such mods (something to do with UL certification, even if it's an improvement). It's a bit of work and assumes you have the room to hog out the rear panel. I have a box of C14 type sockets with the built in noise filters that I scavenged from scrapped plasma TVs that I've used space permitting, but I like the new smaller three pin setup LG uses. If you don't bury a thermal fuse in the windings, then I would add a three wire setup for the one in a bazillion chance that there's a short or AC over-voltage that manages to get the windings hot enough to compromise the isolation of the windings without managing to blow any fuses.. |
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