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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 02:15PM First one I've come across, anyone know what is inside? too big to be bucket-brigade and regulator and a couple of opamps. i don;t believe this supposed schematic http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/clubman501/60421206.html 7 pins to the outside world and pic is correct of this "Digi-log reverb"

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 03:48PM On 26/01/2017 14:15, N_Cook wrote: > i don;t believe this supposed schematic > http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/clubman501/60421206.html > 7 pins to the outside world and pic is correct of this "Digi-log reverb"   that .jp is an external cct

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 26 03:50PM In article <o6d07m$3g4$1@dont-email.me>, diverse@tcp.co.uk says... > i don;t believe this supposed schematic > http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/clubman501/60421206.html > 7 pins to the outside world and pic is correct of this "Digi-log reverb"   I have a vague recollection of coming across a reverb unit in the 1970s which had one of more long springs inside. Worked a bit like those ancient mercury delay line computer stores. It was certainly big!   Mike.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 03:57PM On 26/01/2017 15:50, MJC wrote: > which had one of more long springs inside. Worked a bit like those > ancient mercury delay line computer stores. It was certainly big!   > Mike.   A simple test, next time I power up. Tap the casing and see if output goes boioioioioing. I wonder if you culd make a small springline reverb, to compensate for presumably tinny sound, seriously emphasise the bass and de-emph. There are some half-length tanks with send and receive at one end and a low-damp suspension at the far end. Surely it would be possible to suspend a spiral spring in aero-gel or somesuch

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 02:18PM On 24/01/2017 11:50, N_Cook wrote: > lamp, any known stock fault?. It looks like return to engraving tool > with nylon tip rattling pcb while listening to output on phones > technique to zero in + redo usual suspect solderings   Genuine schematic on https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/func-download/27975/chk,74425eb2e099442fd04c0d3e66f782db/no_html,1/ no reference to the mini-reverb unit though. 15 V "HT" to the valve Looks like pot rivet problem and a PbF problem

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 25 09:39AM -0800 On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 11:05:25 AM UTC-5, jaugu...@verizon.net   > Note: I did electronic service work for many years. > Note: This DVD recorder does NOT use a computer. It has > AV inputs and outputs plus a built in TV type tuner.   a) Whether or not there is a "computer" (formal microprocessor) involved, there is still a great deal of RAM involved in the AD/DA process. So, try a hard reboot: Unplug the machine while ON (but no disc and not playing). Allow it to sit for at least an hour. Activate the "ON" switch for a full 30 seconds while still unplugged. Wait another full minute. Plug back in and restart.   b) If that does not help, replace any caps in the P/S anyway whether they pass the various (low voltage) tests applied. One of the most significant mistakes amateurs make with electrolytic caps is assuming a higher-than-expected reading as "good". Many times, it is more indicative the cap slowly going open.   c) And, once you get it where you want it to be, refrain from unplugging it - or you may find yourself in the position of having to do a hard reboot every time.   ASIDE and RANT WARNING: Guys and gals, let's look at so-called Vampire devices, what they really mean and what cold-starts also really mean.   Definitions: A Vampire Device is any device that continues to draw power while otherwise inert - not doing any sort of work as when active. So, not electric clocks, items with a clock function that power other than that clock and similar. VCRs and DVRs are often considered to be types of vampire devices. I have some very vintage Dynaco and AR devices that keep a low current on the main filter caps when not powered up - so as to avoid turn-on thumps and to keep those capacitors 'wet'. All those things. Big Flat-Screen televisions are also often considered vampires.   What we do not 'get' is that many of these devices 'learn' small things that are wiped out with complete disconnection. Or, internal parts are subject to heavy inrush currents when power is re-applied. TVs lose all their settings and default to "display mode" (Full bright, full color, full everything) when power is re-applied. Some tuners lose all their presets, and so on and so forth.   Now do the math: We, by direct measurement, have a vampire load of about 15 watts in our house. That is everything from the microwave clock to the wall-warts to the television and more. Power is $0.14/kwh (US dollars).   (15 x 24 x 7 x 365) = 919,800 = total watts. 919,800/1000 = 919.8 kilowatt hours 919.8 x 0.14 = $128.77 per year 128.77/12 = $10.73 per month 10.73/30 = $0.36 per day   For which I get:   No preset reprogramming. No TV settings reprogramming x 2 No microwave/stove reprogramming No surges to any wall-wart devices (they all have switching wall-warts. They draw no current when not actually working). All it takes is one device to be damaged by a surge in any case to wipe out any savings.   Sure, from the same person lecturing on efficient washing machines. But this is apples (how something is designed to operate) and oranges (replacing one set of means-and-methods with another set of means-and-methods). If the goal is to clean fabrics with water and chemicals, it only makes sense to do so with the least amount of water and chemicals as is practical. If the goal is to enjoy electronic devices at their full functionality, then it only makes sense to provide the means to that end. One makes a deliberate choice to use those functions, so one pays the price.   And not to be elitist or anything of the sort: $128.77 may be significant and serious money to some. And to some few of those, not sustainable against other demands. For those the decision will be different in how they manage such issues. But it is also doubtful that they will have two hobbies that impact such, and have all the other artifacts that raise our vampire load as high as it is. And to be perfectly snarky, I can balance that $0.36/day against the 15,000 gallons of water I am saving every year over that old Maytag.....   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Jan 25 01:12PM -0500 <pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message news:8d74384f-dda1-40d3-a0e3-c4cd54dd51fa@googlegroups.com... On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 11:05:25 AM UTC-5, jaugu...@verizon.net   > Note: I did electronic service work for many years. > Note: This DVD recorder does NOT use a computer. It has > AV inputs and outputs plus a built in TV type tuner.   a) Whether or not there is a "computer" (formal microprocessor) involved, there is still a great deal of RAM involved in the AD/DA process. So, try a hard reboot: Unplug the machine while ON (but no disc and not playing). Allow it to sit for at least an hour. Activate the "ON" switch for a full 30 seconds while still unplugged. Wait another full minute. Plug back in and restart.   b) If that does not help, replace any caps in the P/S anyway whether they pass the various (low voltage) tests applied. One of the most significant mistakes amateurs make with electrolytic caps is assuming a higher-than-expected reading as "good". Many times, it is more indicative the cap slowly going open.   c) And, once you get it where you want it to be, refrain from unplugging it - or you may find yourself in the position of having to do a hard reboot every time.   ASIDE and RANT WARNING: Guys and gals, let's look at so-called Vampire devices, what they really mean and what cold-starts also really mean.   Definitions: A Vampire Device is any device that continues to draw power while otherwise inert - not doing any sort of work as when active. So, not electric clocks, items with a clock function that power other than that clock and similar. VCRs and DVRs are often considered to be types of vampire devices. I have some very vintage Dynaco and AR devices that keep a low current on the main filter caps when not powered up - so as to avoid turn-on thumps and to keep those capacitors 'wet'. All those things. Big Flat-Screen televisions are also often considered vampires.   What we do not 'get' is that many of these devices 'learn' small things that are wiped out with complete disconnection. Or, internal parts are subject to heavy inrush currents when power is re-applied. TVs lose all their settings and default to "display mode" (Full bright, full color, full everything) when power is re-applied. Some tuners lose all their presets, and so on and so forth.   Now do the math: We, by direct measurement, have a vampire load of about 15 watts in our house. That is everything from the microwave clock to the wall-warts to the television and more. Power is $0.14/kwh (US dollars).   (15 x 24 x 7 x 365) = 919,800 = total watts. 919,800/1000 = 919.8 kilowatt hours 919.8 x 0.14 = $128.77 per year 128.77/12 = $10.73 per month 10.73/30 = $0.36 per day   For which I get:   No preset reprogramming. No TV settings reprogramming x 2 No microwave/stove reprogramming No surges to any wall-wart devices (they all have switching wall-warts. They draw no current when not actually working). All it takes is one device to be damaged by a surge in any case to wipe out any savings.   Sure, from the same person lecturing on efficient washing machines. But this is apples (how something is designed to operate) and oranges (replacing one set of means-and-methods with another set of means-and-methods). If the goal is to clean fabrics with water and chemicals, it only makes sense to do so with the least amount of water and chemicals as is practical. If the goal is to enjoy electronic devices at their full functionality, then it only makes sense to provide the means to that end. One makes a deliberate choice to use those functions, so one pays the price.   And not to be elitist or anything of the sort: $128.77 may be significant and serious money to some. And to some few of those, not sustainable against other demands. For those the decision will be different in how they manage such issues. But it is also doubtful that they will have two hobbies that impact such, and have all the other artifacts that raise our vampire load as high as it is. And to be perfectly snarky, I can balance that $0.36/day against the 15,000 gallons of water I am saving every year over that old Maytag.....   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA     +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++     24 hours * 365 days = 8760 hours per year 8760 hours/year * 15 watts = 131,400 Watt Hours or 131.4 kWh   131.4 kWh * 0.14 $/kWh = $18.39 per year.   HTH, Tom

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Jan 25 02:42PM -0800 I had this happen to other similar devices and it was some I2C bus device not responding. Does it fully work when it starts? Do tuner, modulator, all inputs/outputs, functions, etc work as expected?

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Jan 26 09:57AM > 919.8 x 0.14 = $128.77 per year > 128.77/12 = $10.73 per month > 10.73/30 = $0.36 per day   There is something fucked up with your math.   A steady draw of 15 watts would take 66.6 hours to consume 1 kilowatt or nearly 3 days.   So the actual cost would be closer to 12 cents a day, not 36 cents.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 25 07:25PM -0800 Hot as in running for a while, I don't mean put it in the oven. You want the heat generated from the components inside.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jan 25 05:55PM > (TX-NR609, a few years old) that has a special proprietary port in back. > I think one of the items available was an HD tuner that could plug into > that.   I am in the market because my Onkyo NR616 is in the process of failing. I think I am soured on Onkyo.

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