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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 09 11:35PM -0500 My friend gave me an digital VOM, and DC voltages in the 2 volt range read 14% high.   Is there any way to adjust this?   Or, is there ever a way to adjust this?   No schematic is available, I'm pretty sure but its guts look like most of them. .

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 09 09:04PM -0800 micky wrote:   > My friend gave me an digital VOM, and DC voltages in the 2 volt range > read 14% high.   ** So all the other ranges are OK ?   If so, it sounds like manufacturing error.       .... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 10 04:25AM -0800 On Thursday, February 9, 2017 at 11:35:54 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:   > Or, is there ever a way to adjust this?   > No schematic is available, I'm pretty sure but its guts look like most > of them. .   Some few types have an internal adjustment process. Short the leads, push a sequence of buttons, it zeros out for ohms. For DCV, it will require a battery of known voltage within the range required.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 10 04:43AM -0800 The Peter Fuckwit Wieck Troll spewed:     > > No schematic is available, I'm pretty sure but its guts look like most > > of them. .   > Some few types have an internal adjustment process.   ** Fuck off, you retarded pile of bat manure.   No-one needs to see your brain dead, autistic crap.       .... Phil

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Feb 09 05:12PM > Connecting the Kodi directly to the TV works fine.   > The Denon has no trouble with any of my other HDMI devices. > What could the problem be?     There is no such thing as a "kodi device", kodi is software. Odds are it's one of those black boxes loaded with a custom interface sitting on top of an old version of kodi that can't be upgraded.   Have you tried to change the default settings?   home -> system -> settings -> system -> video output -> display   Try changing the resolution to something else, even like 1280x720 to see if the auto-default guessed wrong what it thinks it is connected to.   If you didn't build that "device" yourself, remember it could just be a Rasberry Pi under there which barely has enough horsepower to do 720p.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 09 09:23AM -0800 On Thu, 9 Feb 2017 14:46:29 +0000 (UTC), root <NoEMail@home.org> wrote:   >on any input to the Denon when the reveiver is turned on >no HDMI input is recognized by the Denon. Some consequence >of this may be my whole problem.   That means that all the HDMI inputs must be HDMI 1.3 or higher. 1.0 to 1.2 have audio, but only one bit, which might not work. If you're running a TV, it should be 1.4 or higher to get bi-directional audio. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_comparison>   It would seem that the HDMI port is "triggered" by the presence of a digital audio stream. Makes sense because it's cheaper to do at low audio frequencies than at video rates. If the Denon has an input "scanning" feature, where it automagically selects an HDMI source that is actively belching data, the lack of audio on the HDMI cable might explain why it's ignoring the Kodi device. There should be some way to disable this automatic input selection mis-feature in the settings.   What's inside the Kodi player? Raspberry Pi? Which version board? You should be able to lookup the HDMI version level for the board and see what it does with audio. My guess(tm) is that anything less than HDMI 1.4 is going to do strange things. Oh-oh: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi#Specifications> Looks like Raspberry Pi is HDMI 1.3.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Feb 09 06:15PM > HDMI 1.4 is going to do strange things. Oh-oh: ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi#Specifications> > Looks like Raspberry Pi is HDMI 1.3.   The Denon is HDMI 1.4a. I got the Kodi to work, but I am still stymied by two of the inputs to the Denon. One problem I had, to use the Game input on the Denon, the receiver has to be set to the Multi-Media input setting.   There is something in the manual about triggering, I will play around with that. Thanks again.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Feb 09 06:18PM > Rasberry Pi under there which barely has enough horsepower to do 720p.   > -bruce > bje@ripco.com   Although I suspected that my device was a Rasberry Pi, I'm not sure. I thought it best to refer to as a Kodi device and let it go as that. I solved my immediate problem after finding out the receiver doesn't map the inputs at the back to the selections and display on the front.

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Feb 10 11:50AM > as that. I solved my immediate problem after finding out the > receiver doesn't map the inputs at the back to the selections > and display on the front.   For what it's worth:   If they didn't bastardize the kodi too much, you should be able to:   home -> system -> system info -> hardware   and see the type of processor in there along with the cpu speed.   Might give some clue to the guts.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 10 04:35AM -0600 >when the power goes out >I still can get heat.   >CP   I'm with you on the " the excess on modern items". Everything these days seems to be made as complicated as possible. Thats one of the reasons I refuse to use any version of Windows newer than XP, and I still like Win98 the best. I also find these new tv sets really annoy me. All the old tvs had a channel selector, volume control and power switch right on the tv. Yes, remote controls are nice, but when I cant find the remote, I cant even change channel or adjust the volume, because there are no controls on the tv itself (except a power switch). Very annoying.   Modern cars are another annoyance. I have only older cars, but even back in the late 90s they were putting stupid shit on them. I dont want power windows, they always break and are a fortune to fix. One of my cars used to lock everytime I got out and slammed the door. It was less than a week of owning it, that I ended up with the keys in the ignition and the doors locked. I live in a rural area, I dont need to lock the doors. I finally found a way to disable them.   Last year I went shopping for an inexpensive car radio/stereo. The car came with an AM/FM radio, with a CD player. It quit working and I decided to just replace it with a similar unit. I did like the idea of a USB port so I can play my MP3 music, but thats all I wanted. Good grief, all the crap they put on these new car radios is ridiculous. I dont want whatever that pay-for radio is called, but i dont want it. I dont want whatever connects to WIFI in the car, my car dont have WIFI. I have never liked tuners that have SCAN / SEARCH all that crap. I like the plain old analog tuner, but know they dont make analog tuners anymore, so I'd have to bite the bullet on that one. I cant begin to even explain all the nonsense they put on some of them, but I did know that I'd end up in a car crash if I had to screw with one of them things while driving. I did finally find one of the cheapest radios came with not much more than AM/FM radio, CD player, and USB. I found I was able to operate it in the store (demo unit), without any manual. I knew this was the one I wanted.   I could go on an on with all the complicated crap we hav to cope with these days....   Some years ago, I was living in a house that had a programmable thermostat. That thing could not be bypassed like the one I have now. I spent hours trying to program that piece of shit. It seemed the more I tried to program it, the worse it got. Half the time I'd be freezing, other times it would be so hot I could not handle it. One day I ripped it off the wall, and replaced it with one of those old round Honeywell mercury switch ones. Problem solved!   One thing you said, that i dont understand.... I dont know of any furnace that will work without electricity. The blower fan needs power. Even if I could rig a car battery to the controls (during a power outage), that blower needs considerable power. We had a power outage last winter, that lasted one and a half days. I used a propane "Mister Heater", which I have for when I go camping. I always keep a full 20lb propane tank just for that use. That worked fairly well.

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Feb 09 11:44AM -0500 > So maybe the -15 is the -8 package with a binned tube. In any case a > 6.5 mA supply rather than a 7 mA should work without overload.   > I have emailed LASOS but I won't hold my breath.   If it's really critical, I can ask a contact at LASOS but I think what you have is close enough for government work. ;-)   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

AlexPelocho <alextsekenis@gmail.com>: Feb 09 01:13PM -0800 I was once told: If you can accept that a moving electron produces a magnetic field, you become an engineer. If not, you become a physicist. I am the former with the inquisitiveness of the latter.   So - besides me stewing it is not something the government would consider critical.   If you can relate to any of this Sam then I would highly appreciate if we find out what to expect from this unit. In the meanwhile I will measure optical power output at 6.5 mA.   Alex

AlexPelocho <alextsekenis@gmail.com>: Feb 10 02:08AM -0800 I received a reply from LASOS.   Apparently this is an OEM version for a Leica microscope.   The datasheet can be found here, for a little while:   https://www.dropbox.com/s/7eaxa511r9hpltw/577099-1169-000_0E.pdf?dl=1   Kudos to LASOS!   Cheers Alex

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 10 02:26AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 03 Feb 2017 10:01:43 -0800, >reach operating speed, 3400 rpm. I replaced the bearings in the motor >and it now spins very easily. There is a 3/4 wide 6 inch grinding >wheel on one side and a light weight 6 inch diamond wheel on the other   This sounds so cool. I want one.   I found this at a modest price, $17, but maybe I'm blind but I can't figure out the diameter of the wheel, the diameter of the hole, or even the width of the disk. I'll bet the thickness of the disk is under a quarter inch, and that the hole is either standard or I should have an adapter, but what is the diamter of the wheel? (I have to go to the basement to remind myself what I use. 6"?)   BTW, what do you use it for?   >it be that it needs a new cap? I don't know what kind of cap it is. >Oil filled I imagine but from the high mfd campared to all my other >run caps could it be an electrolytic cap? There is no sign of leaking   They can fail without leaking. The one in my Hallicrafters failed after 60 years or so, which is a long time but it still failed. I coudln't easily find a replacement so I replaced it with 10 smaller ones of a different sor in parallel, but this was a power supply filter. I don't think that kind of substittuiion works for starting a motor.   >and there are two places on the top of the cap where it looks like >holes were sealed with solder.   Hmm. I don't think that's anything.   You can test a big cap like that with an analog meter. Unsolder one of the wires, and put the meter on ohms across the two connectors. If it's good, the needle will go far to the right and then go gradually to the left. Then reverse the test leads and it will do the same again.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Feb 09 01:24PM -0500 On Thu, 09 Feb 2017 09:23:17 -0500, Mark F <mark53916@gmail.com> wrote:     >Also: A UPS is more likely to get fried itself in the cases like >in the above report. House MOV seems like the only hope to >protect from these events. I installed a whole house surge protector in my new panel last year. I figured it was cheap insurance.

moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com (Michael Moroney): Feb 09 09:42PM >> experience here, so I'll happily defer to any actual power engineering >> types who want to chime in.   >I can't believe it's that likely for 4800V to get onto a 240V line. Possible, but so rare it's not worth bothering to install protection. I protect against little spikes, or voltages about 30V under/over what they should be. My UPS frequently adjusts the voltage, and sometimes gives up and runs the house on batteries for 5 seconds.   Well, it did happen to us. The pole with the transformer broke between the transformer and the crossarm at the top, partly because it was an old pole with ants living in the part that broke and partly because of the winter storm. I saw the aftermath and even still have the two 4800V cutouts that fed the transformer. This was a bunch of summer cottages on a lake. Two of them burned to the ground. Our place was on the same transformer but because my father always threw the main breaker when closing up the place it was unaffected.

Diesel <me@privacy.net>: Feb 10 02:35AM Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> news:g-ydnT1t59wzDgbFnZ2dnUU7-TGdnZ2d@supernews.com Wed, 08 Feb 2017 21:55:06 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:   > outside the house. In that sort of super nasty surge, they > explode and isolate the house from the line. Never had the urge > to do it myself, but it might be good insurance.   I've been onsite a few times when the MOVs have kicked in and done their job. It greatly reduces harm to the electrical system and devices attached inside the home. However, if the surge is strong enough, it'll momentarily arc across the now opened lines and temp energize the home. It's still better than maintaining a direct (but burning) link, though.     -- Sarcasm, because beating the living shit out of deserving people is illegal.

Diesel <me@privacy.net>: Feb 10 02:34AM moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com (Michael Moroney) news:o7fjft$sj3$1@pcls7.std.com Wed, 08 Feb 2017 17:11:25 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:   > Up the street from me, they upgraded a MV distribution circuit > from a lower voltage to a higher one (13,800V I believe).   Have they been adding on to the circuits in your area? New buildings, etc? What was the previous voltage?     > pole broke in a storm and the 4800V MV distribution wires made > contact with the 120V/240V feed to houses. Two of them burned to > the ground.   Ouch! I've seen this happen before too. Doesn't typically end well for the building and/or the electrical system/attached devices inside.       -- Sarcasm, because beating the living shit out of deserving people is illegal.

Diesel <me@privacy.net>: Feb 10 02:34AM "James Wilkinson Sword" <imvalid@somewear.com> news:op.yvcw7ca6js98qf@red.lan Wed, 08 Feb 2017 19:46:14 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:   >> director of Jefferson County's Department of Emergency Services, >> told AP.   > You should have anything expensive in a UPS.   The UPS would have fried as well under those conditions. And, depending on internal UPS design characteristics, may/may not have done any good for the device plugged into it. It depends on several things. Which lines got energized way above the normal voltage and for how long. Is the UPS truely seperating the inverter/battery backup from the main AC line, or, is it a cheaper unit where the plugins aren't actually isolated from the main incoming power? IE: is it really running the out plugs on battery via inverter or, is it also supplying filtered power while the AC is good via the ac lines feeding the UPS?   If it's isolating the battery and charging circuitry then, your risk of being toasted if something roasts the ups is smaller, but, not by much.         -- Sarcasm, because beating the living shit out of deserving people is illegal.

Diesel <me@privacy.net>: Feb 10 02:35AM Mark F <mark53916@gmail.com> news:sfuo9cdb3cjd6lo39rahake3a24b5o6o40@4ax.com Thu, 09 Feb 2017 14:23:17 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:   > I'd say all appliances should be replaced by the power company if > any in the house failed, or at least anything that fails in the > next 5 years should be replaced when it fails.   I've had very little success getting power companies to replace anything in a home due to an electrical malfunction that was their fault. As far as they seem to be concerned, your appliances and protection for them is your responsibility. Even if their transformer sends way too much juice to your house, that's somehow, not their fault.   I can understand their position on it, but, I also see it from the owner of now dead electronics/electrical devices in their home. > Also: A UPS is more likely to get fried itself in the cases like > in the above report. House MOV seems like the only hope to > protect from these events.   They do a reasonably decent job too. However, they cannot do a damn thing if the incoming voltage has enough amps to jump across the now open lines inside the meter box. If the current is high enough, a couple of inches of space isn't going to make a difference, it'll jump (it's not a stable connection, but it's a connection) across and complete the previously opened circuits. It won't be able to maintain it for very long, assuming other safety circuits are kicking in around this time and shutting it down, OR, it finally burns enough off during the arc jump that it can't hold anymore. Until one or both happens though, your house is being energized, and likely way more than anything plugged in inside the house is going to be happy with.         -- Sarcasm, because beating the living shit out of deserving people is illegal.

Diesel <me@privacy.net>: Feb 10 02:35AM Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> news:W_-dnWu08oZ9CgbFnZ2dnUU7-X_NnZ2d@supernews.com Wed, 08 Feb 2017 22:13:00 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:   > The result is an _arc flash_, which you do _not_ want in your > vicinity, trust me. (Youtube has a lot of examples if you doubt > this.)   The arc flash isn't even the big killer. It's the shockwave ahead of the arc flash that does the most damage if the voltage/amperage is high enough. It can turn your organs into mush before the fireball gets close enough to light you up. > in a breaker box mounted to a wooden stud wall inside, for one > thing, but I'm outside my experience here, so I'll happily defer > to any actual power engineering types who want to chime in.   When I'm tasked with the job of bringing circuits online, I tend to do it with a long plastic stick at an angle; I'm stepping off to the side. This way, if something is wrong, I don't get the shockwave and arc flash right in my face. Nothing like finishing out a premod home only to findout one or more wires wasn't labeled correctly and one is actually about to feed 120 into the live side of a 120volt breaker that's living on the other leg. So, when you turn this breaker on, you're actually running both legs into each other on that breaker. It shoots fire out the sides and hums something awful before it trips right back out. :)   Atleast with the cinderblock foundation, it's essentially an open environment so the arc flash and shockwave can dissipate faster. When it's enclosed (as in, inside a panel), it can be much more devastating. Not only for the panel and it's guts, but, yours too.     -- Sarcasm, because beating the living shit out of deserving people is illegal.

moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com (Michael Moroney): Feb 10 05:52AM >> from a lower voltage to a higher one (13,800V I believe).   >Have they been adding on to the circuits in your area? New buildings, >etc? What was the previous voltage?   No new construction/new loads in that area. It may have been done to allow that circuit to provide an additional 13.8K feed to a medical center a ways upstream. I am uncertain of the old voltage but the nameplate for a regulator transformer on a nearby old circuit reads 2400V which seems kind of low. The utility seems to have been upgrading other older/lower voltage circuits in the area as well.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Feb 09 03:08PM -0500

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 09 03:19PM -0600 On 2/9/2017 2:08 PM, Michael Black wrote: > Collins used mechanical filters in their receivers, but not all > of them.   Collins introduced them in the 75A-4 and 51J-4 receivers back in the early '50s.   Drake used a 50 KHz IF and tuned LC filters in their receivers up until the mid '60s.   The alternative to Collins mechanical filters were multi-pole crystal filters. Which was what everyone else was using.   One of the stranger things to come across was Henry Radio offered a kit to install a Collins mechanical filter in the Drake 2B receiver.   Absolutely pointless, but it allowed you to win "dick waving" contests.         -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Feb 09 12:10PM -0800 Modern tuners include VHF and UHF sections in the same can and share many sections. I've had the opposite problem with VHF working and UHF not, so if the signal is OK the tuner is suspect. It could be the signal strenght is low in the reception limit and one TV is better at low strenghts than the other.

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