| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 08:32PM The Real Bev wrote: > Did that, along with minor bodywork repair. Sprayed orange lacquer on > my MC tank and chain guard (with a REAL sprayer, not cans), which came > out really nice. Given an air compressor of decent size, a vapor condenser on the end, and a well regulated flow, it would seem to me that the paint will come out evenly where the trick is technique. Given that we said the trick with alignment is knowledge, and the trick with car tires is tools, the trick with welding and painting seems to be technique. > Fixed a few rust holes on the 55 Chevy with fiberglas > and bondo before letting Earl Scheib paint it. The Clymer bodywork > manual was definitely worth the money. Clymer. I remember them. Hanes too. And of course, the FSM which always seemed to be written in the japinish or germinish language. Nowadays I use the Internet for the DIYs. >> 3. replace/rebuild engine >> 4. clutch replacement > Does a MC count? Maybe. But a master cylinder rebuild/replace is not on the same scale. An alignement takes a few tools and a lot of thinking. An engine rebuild takes a lot of tools most of all the instructions. A clutch, by way of comparison, is easier than those two as it only needs one or two special tools and the instructions are pretty simple by way of comparison. > Did all the work except milling the heads and final torquing down of > head bolts -- I just wasn't strong enough and didn't have a long enough > cheater. Ain't you one of 'dem dat dere long-haired long-fingernailed high-heel wearing members of society? If so, you 'jes needs yo'self a bigger breaker bar! > What's a vcg? Valve cover gasket. It's like doing a head gasket, only a lot easier. > Alternators, generators, starters, water pumps, motor mounts, brake > pads/drums, hoses, belts. I think almost everyone has done that, where we can throw in voltage regulators and batteries to alternators, and we can add starters and batteries to that list. With water pumps goes the entire assemblage of while-you're-there jobs such as belts and fan clutches and radiators and harmonic balancers. With motor mounts there isn't much ancillary work that people do, but with brakes there's the whole shebang from pads and sensors to calipers and rotors and bearings and speed sensors, and abs intricacies. >> What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never >> done? > NONE! I did this stuff because it was cheaper to do it myself. I get a satisfaction out of understanding what it takes. I can't get that understanding by reading a book. If we haven't done the job at least once, I think we can't understand it at all. Sure we think we understand it, but until we've actually done an alignment or changed a tire or painted a car or replaced an engine, we really don't know all that much IMHO. We can just guess but guessing is 1/4 right and 3/4 wrong for most of us. > it because someone else lifted it. One of the tires has a slow leak > (indicated by a sensor so I don't even have to check!) which I pump back > up every month or so, and I do that with a certain amount of resentment. I understand which is that as we get older, we do less often. That's why I think I missed my chance on these half-dozen "big" jobs. > Don't get the cheap $10 Harbor Freight compressor, splurge on the $35 > one; trust me.) Harbor Freight is something that you have to get used to since sometimes they're the only place to get cheap-enough tools (like a transmission or motorcycle stand) while other times they're the worst place to get tools at any price (like any of their linesman pliers or drill bits). > spool of wire and said to pay for what I used. I gave up after only a > few ounces. The guy said that he knew tiny Hispanic women who could do > that. They're heroes. Motorcyles used to have a rotating magnet inside three static coils of about 50 feet of copper wire coated with a baked-on heat resistant enamel. Without that enamel, the wires will short (ask me how I know). The winding is pretty hard by hand because you only have three wires but you have something like 24 posts, where that post has a cap which overhangs and when you get to the last few windings, if you didn't wind it tightly enough, there's no room for the windings on the next post (again, ask me how I know this). I'm _glad_ I wound my first motorcycle coil (which failed in just 100 miles by shorting out) and I'm glad I replaced the entire sulfuric acid content of my battery (which also lasted for only about 1/2 year), but neither are things I'd do again. Then again, I'm glad I hiked (I don't remember the names exactly) the Kaibob to the Colorado River and then back up from Bright Angel to the top but it's not something I'll ever do again. |
| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Nov 04 05:13PM -0400 rbowman posted for all of us... > paint guy I ever knew was someone you had to catch in the zone between > sober but shaky and falling down drunk. The runner up was a complete > stoner. From the paint? -- Tekkie |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:19PM > vibration of an out-of-balance tire - and on many of the "cruiser" and > "bagger" class of MCs, the tires DO get balanced to provide a smooth > ride. That might be the reason because I don't know anyone (BMW bikes) who balances their tires and they all mount them at home. I think maybe another reason might be that almost no bike has crappy rims but I don't know why motorcycle tires seem to work fine on beamers without dynamic balancing. But they do. The static balance is easily done with a horizontal axle. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:19PM > I almost always ELIMINATE the friction by jackin the weight off the > tire. I'm too "thick" to fit under the car with the wheels on the gr > turn the tie-rod sleeves. I don't understand how it would work to lift the tire off the ground, so I assume you just remove some of the weight off the tire. But isn't the alignment spec with the tires weighted with full load? How can you do a proper alignment if you don't load the suspension? Do you (a) load, (b) measure, (c) unload, (d) adjust, (e) load (f) measure? (Of course I know all about loading for a driver and I know all about the BMW-style loading to "normal" conditions which is defined by BMW as a distance from the centerline of the hubcap to the middle of the fender flare and which typically requires about five hundred pounds spread out evenly - but I'm just talking about the generic loading of the suspension here with a full tank and no people in the car.) |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:19PM The Real Bev wrote: > LTD. One loose bolt, one dropped on top of the starter and one > completely missing. He was partially right, it ran for a couple of > years afterward. I can't count the number of times I've seen someone use a screwdriver as a prybar on, say, plastic twist-off hubcaps, or who used a pair of pliers instead of a socket, or who used an adjustable wrench instead of a socket. The only time I use a screwdriver, is as a screwdriver. The only time I use pliers on hex nuts is when simply holding down one end. The only time I use an adjustable wrench is ... well ... almost never. (I can't imagine what an adjustable wrench does that the properly sized wrench doesn't do, unless you're climbing a lighthouse tower or something where you just can't come down to get the right tool for the bolt.) Now vise grips. They're useful. But for different reasons. But the point is that many mechanics use the fastest method. Not the right method. Hence, that's why I think we always do a better job at home. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:19PM > They sure make cars a lot better - experience and technology have > made a lot of difference. ( Remember, in 1959, the automobile, as an > object, was not as old as a 1959 car is today!!!! I wonder if Japan had something to do with Detroit making cars better? > everyone wants it CHEAPER and expects to upgrade long before anything > with any QUALITY would require replacement. Everything is changing SO > FAST. That's what I don't get. Why is everything but cars and computers cheaper and less reliable? Cars are not cheaper but more reliable. Computers are both cheaper and more reliable. I understand the magic of computers getting more reliable but what's the magic in cars getting more reliable? |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:19PM > Oh? used to be the rings and bearings, oil pump, lifters, and half > the other moving parts in an engine required replacement within 60,000 > miles. I hear you that engines used to last only about 100K miles in those days, but is that true. Are engines really far more reliable today? Why? Is it because they're mostly Japanese? > And the fuel and ignition system parts in less than half that. I do agree that PCV valves and condensers and points and carbs required maintenance basically yearly or every two years at the longest. Now, they're "almost" lifetime parts because they don't exist. > that time frame. I replaced LOTS of GM timing sprockets long before > 60,000 miles - and that was a lot more work than replacing a timing > belt. I'll agree with you that engines seem more reliable today than in yesteryear. But why? What's the magic that makes a 150K-mile engine into a 300K-mile engine? > The timing chains on Mitsubishi (Chrysler) 2.6 engines seldom made > 100,000 km (60,000 miles) if you followed the "normal" oil change > schedule - and they were a LOT of work to change. That's bad. I have never replaced a timing belt or a timing chain. And I've gone well over 150K miles on cars with chains. > They are a LOT easier to access than they used to be on many > engines. Transverse engines make EVERYTHING harder to change - even > on an old Mini. I never had a FWD car in my life. Nor a 4WD. Luckily, 2WD RWD cars spread out the "stuff" in manageable ways. > There are a lot of engines that I can change a timing belt on in less > than 2 hours - even on my driveway. I don't even do an oil change in 2 hours. I take my sweet time. I think for a home mechanic, time only matters when the car is still on blocks on Monday morning when you have to get to work (if you still work). Otherwise, time isn't the issue. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:31PM RS Wood wrote: > I think for a home mechanic, time only matters when the car is still on > blocks on Monday morning when you have to get to work (if you still work). > Otherwise, time isn't the issue. I should expound that time is the major factor in a shop where time isn't at all a factor at home. That reality ends up making a huge difference in everything. For example, dumb people say you can't align a car at home because you don't have the $100K (or whatever) to spend on equipment that a shop spends, but the equation is completely different for them than it is for you. You don't have to handle all cars. Just your cars. You can take three weeks to do your alignment. They have to do it in 1/2 hour. My oil changes easily take me a couple of hours. A two-hour oil change at a shop would be unheard of. I admit that on Monday morning, the car better be road ready if you need to get to work, and, if you have to match parts, you'd better get that part to the dealer or parts store before they close at 6pm, but other than those two circumstances, why would time matter to a home mechanic? What I mean here is that the weight of tool factors is completely different for shops than it is for home users. I'll bet almost every job we mentioned can be done at home with a cost investment of just a few hundred bucks. Sure, it takes longer to do an alignment or change a tire or put a new clutch in with only three hundred dollars worth of additional tools for each job, but I'll bet we can do the job BETTER at home simply because we care more. So the tradeoff, I think, is TIME <> QUALITY I think only in painting, will the quality of results probably never match that of a shop (because we just can't afford the tools they use and they have too much experience that we will never have). |
| rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 04 05:39PM -0400 RS Wood wrote on 11/4/2017 2:17 PM: > Now, it seems, 200K miles is approaching a lot. > Do they really make cars better but nothing else is better? > How can that be? They make things to last as long as the consumer demands. Kids toys were not all built solidly when we were kids. Tonka was a high priced toy. Today they still make quality toys. I don't know if Tonka uses UV stabilizers, but I know there are some kids plastic playhouses that seem to last for many years outside. Likewise I recall any number of metal toys that were assembled by bending sheet metal tabs over. You could do this once and possibly twice if you need to repair something, but try it a third time and the tabs would be in your hand. There have always been cheap toys. Cars didn't get better until the Japanese showed the US consumer there was a choice. Detroit and Wolfsburg, etc only learned after the Japanese started eating their lunches. -- Rick C Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998 |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 09:49PM rickman wrote: > Today they still make quality toys. I don't know if Tonka uses UV > stabilizers, but I know there are some kids plastic playhouses that seem to > last for many years outside. The only plastic that I know of which lasts forever outside is whatever plastic the garbage company uses for those blue, green, and gray wheeled bins! I wish *all* plastic things were made out of *that* plastic, especially pool tools. > Cars didn't get better until the Japanese showed the US consumer there was a > choice. Detroit and Wolfsburg, etc only learned after the Japanese started > eating their lunches. I think I may tend to agree with you which is why I mentioned that Japan may have had a lot to do with Detroit making more reliable cars. I think also the EPA forcing the manufacturer to warrant the emissions system for longer periods of time helped. For example, in the olden days, how many rotted out "mufflers" did you replace compared to today? |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 04 02:50PM -0700 On Saturday, 4 November 2017 18:17:03 UTC, RS Wood wrote: > That's an enigma to me. > Why would bicycle and motorcycle tires work just fine without dynamic > balancing while car tires require dynamic balancing to work right? I've watched truck tyres being changed by hand on non-split rim wheels. Not having a power tool to compress the thing proved a real pain in the ass. All he had was a sledge hammer and a tyre lever. No compressor either. NT |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 04 02:53PM -0700 On Saturday, 4 November 2017 18:17:09 UTC, RS Wood wrote: > worked! > Is there a car sold today that uses a carb? > Probably not. I assume the hindustan ambassador does NT |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 04 03:00PM -0700 > Most people want to buy the latest and greatest even before today's > JUNK is worn out. correction, the latest and most hyped piece of junk NT |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 04 03:07PM -0700 On Saturday, 4 November 2017 21:19:46 UTC, RS Wood wrote: > but I don't know why motorcycle tires seem to work fine on beamers without > dynamic balancing. But they do. > The static balance is easily done with a horizontal axle. car tyres are made unbalanced, the rubber thickness is not well controlled and the inside rough. Maybe bike tyres are made better in that respect. NT |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 04 06:26PM -0400 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:19:45 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid> wrote: >assume you just remove some of the weight off the tire. >But isn't the alignment spec with the tires weighted with full load? >How can you do a proper alignment if you don't load the suspension? You can adjust it with the tie-rod on the bench if you want to and are smart enough to figure out how many turns it takes. Only the measurement requires the suspension to be loaded. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 04 10:37PM > You can adjust it with the tie-rod on the bench if you want to and > are smart enough to figure out how many turns it takes. Only the > measurement requires the suspension to be loaded. Thanks for answering as I know that the measurement is what takes loading of the suspension. I guess, at home, time isn't the issue, but it is a pain to load, measure, unload, adjust, load, measure (repeat). Then again, it doesn't really matter if it takes a week to do the alignment as it's not a critical issue if it's close enough and not driven for long. Of course, it has to be checked again after doing the camber and caster. I forget the proper order from high school mechanics class. I think it's either caster, then camber, then toe? Or it might (offhand) be the other way around? If toe is last, then unloading, adjusting, reloading makes more sense. |
| The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Nov 04 04:33PM -0700 On 11/04/2017 01:32 PM, RS Wood wrote: > Given that we said the trick with alignment is knowledge, and the trick > with car tires is tools, the trick with welding and painting seems to be > technique. You need a viscosity meter and the willingness to pay attention to it. You also can't spray an arc, you have to keep the spray perpendicular to the surface. And you have to move at the right speed. Lacquer is way more forgiving than enamel. We painted a school bus with white enamel, but it didn't look all that nice, although it was OK from a distance. A guy passing by saw it and traded his 58 Chevy pickup for it. A good bargain for us, anyway. We hauled our motorcycles in it for a lot of years and my son drove it back and forth to Berkeley for a year. >> manual was definitely worth the money. > Clymer. I remember them. Hanes too. And of course, the FSM which always > seemed to be written in the japinish or germinish language. The Clymer manuals were better than the others, although the Ducati manual was kind of weird. It had a full-page labeled blowup of a spark plug and a full-page labeled blowup of the entire engine. I could have done without the sparkplug illustration. It also said that if I lost the key I should replace it with a piece of metal of similar size. Given that the key was made of 1/8" square stock, this was not unreasonable. I replaced it with three canopy switches which had to be positioned properly to let it start. You also had to prime the carb very carefully with 3 full-throttle kicks and then three no-throttle kicks. I'm sorry I gave it away. >>> 4. clutch replacement >> Does a MC count? > Maybe. But a master cylinder rebuild/replace is not on the same scale. No, but I think I replaced one, along with some wheel cylinders. >> cheater. > Ain't you one of 'dem dat dere long-haired long-fingernailed high-heel > wearing members of society? You mean like the woman in heels and pearls on the label of the snow-chain box? No. >> What's a vcg? > Valve cover gasket. > It's like doing a head gasket, only a lot easier. Thread helps! > batteries to that list. > With water pumps goes the entire assemblage of while-you're-there jobs such > as belts and fan clutches and radiators and harmonic balancers. I cut my hands to ribbons on the first water pump -- the fan (which had to be removed) was attached with at least 4 bolts which could only move 1/4 turn without repositioning the 12-point box wrench, the only thing that would fit. I swore I'd never do that again no matter how much it cost -- until I found out how much it DID cost. Some of us are too cheap for our own good. > With motor mounts there isn't much ancillary work that people do, The old one wouldn't come out. I spent a lot of time with my fingers in an excellent position to be removed if the jack holding up the engine failed. I ended up just slapping the new one on top of the old one. > but with > brakes there's the whole shebang from pads and sensors to calipers and > rotors and bearings and speed sensors, and abs intricacies. The ones I did were simple. The hard part was remembering how the damn springs on the drums went. I couldn't believe how easy pads were; it took me longer to find the C-clamp than to do the work :-( > I can't get that understanding by reading a book. > If we haven't done the job at least once, I think we can't understand it at > all. That's true. Knowledge is good, but it comes at a price which I'm no longer willing to pay. > Sure we think we understand it, but until we've actually done an alignment > or changed a tire or painted a car or replaced an engine, we really don't > know all that much IMHO. Hints from those who have done it are useful, of course. >> up every month or so, and I do that with a certain amount of resentment. > I understand which is that as we get older, we do less often. > That's why I think I missed my chance on these half-dozen "big" jobs. I just hit the 3/4 century mark. I'm going for 1-1/4 :-) > Then again, I'm glad I hiked (I don't remember the names exactly) the > Kaibob to the Colorado River and then back up from Bright Angel to the top > but it's not something I'll ever do again. Daughter did the Angel's Rest (?) thing in Zion. She's fortunate she didn't inherit my lack of endurance. I need to rest 3 times per 1-mile downhill ski run :-( -- Cheers, Bev The stone age didn't end for lack of stones. -- Troy the Troll |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 04 08:20PM -0400 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:19:48 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid> wrote: >> made a lot of difference. ( Remember, in 1959, the automobile, as an >> object, was not as old as a 1959 car is today!!!! >I wonder if Japan had something to do with Detroit making cars better? Most definitely! >Computers are both cheaper and more reliable. >I understand the magic of computers getting more reliable but what's the >magic in cars getting more reliable? That's easy - Computers!!! |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 05 11:24AM +1100 On 05/11/17 08:19, RS Wood wrote: > Cars are not cheaper but more reliable. > ... what's the > magic in cars getting more reliable? I suspect that better computer simulation, especially thermal modeling, has the most to do with it. There are manufacturing breakthroughs also, like bearing seals that actually seal the bearings, and better materials. Better anti-corrosion chemistry. Stuff like that. Clifford Heath |
| oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 04 07:24PM -0600 >If you really want to tackle #3, it is easy enough to do. Buy a new >Corvette and for an extra $5000 you can go to the plant and assemble >your own engine. Of course, they have a pro with you. I dont know why this is posted to sci.electronics.repair, but since it's here, I have done all of the 7 on the list above. As far as 2. alignment, I cant say it was a perfect job. I did it with a tape measure and boards, after replacing some front end parts. I got it close, so I could at least drive it, but I took it to an alignment shop soon after. That is one thing a homeowner just cant do accurately without proper equipment. I never rebuillt an entire engine, but I replaced a few as well as transmissions. In my old age, I dont work on a much of that stuff as I did years ago. I still do my own brakes, and oil changes and stuff like that. But I wont tackle engine changes or any of that heavy work anymore. And I wont mount tires anymore. That was always a tough job withoiut a tire machine and only saved me about $12. Not worth the hassle. I once painted a whole truck with a paint brush. I added some stuff to make the paint flow nicely. A lot of people thought I was crazy, and said you need a sprayer. In the end, it turned out pretty good. It was an old truck anyhow, but the paint made it look better and stopped a lot of rusting. Although spraying is easier to apply, the taping and preparation offsets any time savings. With a quality brush, I cut in a good edge around windows and chrome and other body stuff. To get back ON TOPIC, I have done a lot of car wiring and changing radios and that sort of thing. Knowing electronics makes car wiring very easy, except it's often hard to get to some of the wires, especially under the car, and under the dashboard. The mini van I drive now, was at a used car lot. The guy said he could not sell it to me until someone fixed the headlights (they did not work). He had already replaced the bulbs and the switch. He told me to come back the next day, after he got a wiring professional there to fix it. I went there the next day. When I got there, he had a guy under the hood trying ot fix them. I watched the guy and he was not succeeding. A half hour later that guy told the seller that he could not fix it, and the car would have to be taken to the dealership. After that guy left, I offered to buy the car AS-IS for $500 less thn the asking price. The seller said that according to his dealers license he is not supposed to sell a car without headlights, but he would note in writing on the sales slip "headlights do not work", and accepted my offer, except he said I had to pay for the new headlight bulbs. (about $20). I accepted the offer. When I got it home, I had the headlights working in less than an hour. There are relays under the hood, in the fuse box, and one of them was bad. For me, that was a simple fix. Apparently the so called "professional" who he had working on it, was not very bright!!! |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 04 08:33PM -0400 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:19:50 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid> wrote: >Are engines really far more reliable today? >Why? >Is it because they're mostly Japanese? No, it's because of advances in metalurgy, lubrication, manufacturing, and to a VERY large extent, advances in engine controls. Lead free gasoline has a LARGE effect on the improvement of engine life, as along with the lead, phosphorous was also virtually eliminated in the fuel. This means a lot less acids in the oil, exhaust, etc. With the replacement of carb and chike with EFI, there is less fuel dilution - and electronic ignition and timing advance just adds to the improvements. In 1959, the auto was still an adolescent - it has matured over the ensuing decades in SO many ways. Rust and corrosion control has come SO far, even since the eighties that there is really no reason a car body should rust today - and the bodies, although MUCH lighter, do last 2, 3, even 5 times as long. Car finishes as well - was not uncommon for a 3 or 4 year old car to require a repaint in the old days - now MOST go to the scrapyard wearing their original coat of paint - - - - even with water based paints!!!! >> And the fuel and ignition system parts in less than half that. >I do agree that PCV valves and condensers and points and carbs required >maintenance basically yearly or every two years at the longest. Often TWICE a year - spring and fall tuneups were common. >Now, they're "almost" lifetime parts because they don't exist. Even spark plugs go 100,000 km plus - - - >yesteryear. >But why? >What's the magic that makes a 150K-mile engine into a 300K-mile engine? Better design, engine controls, lubricants, and no more leaded gas. >That's bad. >I have never replaced a timing belt or a timing chain. >And I've gone well over 150K miles on cars with chains. Most did - but there were (natable) exceptions. Also, how long have you been driving? What is the oldest car you have owned?? >I never had a FWD car in my life. >Nor a 4WD. >Luckily, 2WD RWD cars spread out the "stuff" in manageable ways. They ARE easier to repair - in general. >I think for a home mechanic, time only matters when the car is still on >blocks on Monday morning when you have to get to work (if you still work). >Otherwise, time isn't the issue. You don't have a wife???? |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 04 08:41PM -0400 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:49:28 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid> wrote: >system for longer periods of time helped. >For example, in the olden days, how many rotted out "mufflers" did you >replace compared to today? No lead and phosphorous in the gas makes a BIG difference - as does more complete combustion. Stainless steel doesn't hurt either. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 04 08:43PM -0400 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 22:37:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid> wrote: >Then again, it doesn't really matter if it takes a week to do the alignment >as it's not a critical issue if it's close enough and not driven for long. >Of course, it has to be checked again after doing the camber and caster. That's why you set the camber and caster FIRST!!!! |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 04 08:49PM -0400 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 16:33:57 -0700, The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com> wrote: SNIPP >that would fit. I swore I'd never do that again no matter how much it >cost -- until I found out how much it DID cost. Some of us are too >cheap for our own good. KD makes a special tool for that - at the value O put on skin and suffering, cheap at twice the price >The ones I did were simple. The hard part was remembering how the damn >springs on the drums went. I couldn't believe how easy pads were; it >took me longer to find the C-clamp than to do the work :-( A cell phone camera makes all of that SO much simpler!!! |
| oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 04 07:37PM -0600 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 18:15:25 -0000, "Ian Field" >Recent issues of the windows OS restrict port access and will probably >heavily impact NU - if you want to use Win; You may have to go as far back >as Win ME. I'd use Win98se, not WinME. If you have an old computer to use for this, go to a search engine and search for "Abandonware". I found one site (maybe more) that has the old versions of Norton Utilities, Win98, and all the Dos versions you will ever need. All free to download. I have to question the legality of this, but I am not going to worry about it. Some of the software on there is truly abandoned. The companies no longer exist. But I do question the legality of having Win98 on there and maybe even Norton stuff. There is another site which is called bootdisk.com. There you can get everything you need to make a Dos bootdisk. |
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