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Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 06 09:52AM -0700 On Thu, 5 Apr 2018 21:28:59 -0400, bitrex >citizen it all just seemed like a huge hassle for not much reward. If >I'd been born in the 50s or 60s I probably would've gotten into it, but >I was born in the dying days of disco instead.   I was born in the late 40's and obtained a ham license when I was about 13 years old. Sputnik had been launched about 3 years earlier (1957) and the US went nuts. <https://www.google.com/search?q=sputnik+fever> We were going to beat the Russians in the space race by cranking out more scientists and engineers. Also, us kids also couldn't help noticing that the parents were genuinely worried about Russia attacking with missiles and bombers. So, any kid with even the slightest technical ability was encouraged to go into some kind of technical field. So, I got into ham radio.   >Instead of buying a secondhand shortwave radio I bought a secondhand >2400 bps modem. Mom and Dad humored me but thought this whole "computers >talking to each other" thing was just a weird fad, like CB radio. Oh well...   You missed the earlier 110 and 300 baud modems with acoustic couplers. Nothing worked as expected or consistently. Turn on some music in the same room, and the error rate would climb. <https://www.google.com/search?q=anderson+jacobson+acoustic+coupler&tbm=isch> The nice part was that I could use it with a pay phone. Ah, nostalgia.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 06 12:08PM -0500 On 4/6/18 11:52 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <https://www.google.com/search?q=anderson+jacobson+acoustic+coupler&tbm=isch> > The nice part was that I could use it with a pay phone. Ah, > nostalgia.   Heh, I still have one. Want it?     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 05 10:04PM -0400 On 04/05/2018 02:55 PM, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:   > Let me know if I left anything out that you need, but this seems to be the > process, where both the CORES and FRN people told me lots of people ask the > question (so why isn't it in the FCC FAQ?).   Nice job

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 05 09:28PM -0400 > And people who value privacy are not the type to burn such a bridge, so I recommend just giving them the number. Don't even use TDC. (TDC means threat, duress, coercion) That is more aptly used when forced to sign something or else suffer some consequence, like not getting a driver's license or something like that, but the OP does not intend to refuse to sign and agree to be bound by the associated regulations, he wants to omit a piece of information.   > This is tricky, I don't claim to know all about it but I know enough for example to pull it off myself. But others have different situations and may require a different approach.   > The people I learn about this from had hired an ex-Harvard law professor top tutor them, and he could never have given that information out in his capacity as an active member of the bar. Once retired it is a different story.   I thought about getting a ham license at one point and even as a US citizen it all just seemed like a huge hassle for not much reward. If I'd been born in the 50s or 60s I probably would've gotten into it, but I was born in the dying days of disco instead.   Instead of buying a secondhand shortwave radio I bought a secondhand 2400 bps modem. Mom and Dad humored me but thought this whole "computers talking to each other" thing was just a weird fad, like CB radio. Oh well...

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 06 11:22AM -0700 On Fri, 6 Apr 2018 12:08:36 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> The nice part was that I could use it with a pay phone. Ah, >> nostalgia.   >Heh, I still have one. Want it?   Which one? The pay phone or the AJ acoustic coupler modem? I'll assume the coupler.   Methinks I will need to regretfully decline your generous offer. I spent my first half century collecting such things and am now spending my next half century getting rid of the junk.   BTW, I previously had one of these: <http://www.computerhistory.org/revolution/networking/19/371/2023> but gave it to a collector of telco gizmos about 10 years ago.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 06 01:33PM -0500 On 4/6/18 1:22 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > Which one? The pay phone or the AJ acoustic coupler modem? I'll > assume the coupler.   Well, I didn't really expect you to jump on it.   > Methinks I will need to regretfully decline your generous offer.   I understand, I'm working on "thinning the herd" here myself.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 06 03:32PM -0400 On 04/06/2018 12:52 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > attacking with missiles and bombers. So, any kid with even the > slightest technical ability was encouraged to go into some kind of > technical field. So, I got into ham radio.   My junior high school was built around that time and had a small planetarium, I guess they wanted to get the students of 50s and 60s thinking about space?   Sadly by the time I was a student there in the early 1990s the planetarium dome hadn't been used in years and the room converted into a lecture hall for larger classes, the planetarium projector gizmo either damaged and no spare parts/too expensive to fix, or just nobody still there who recalled how to operate it.   A few years later the little dome was torn down and the wing renovated into the school's computer lab.   > <https://www.google.com/search?q=anderson+jacobson+acoustic+coupler&tbm=isch> > The nice part was that I could use it with a pay phone. Ah, > nostalgia.   The first PC we had in the house was a Leading Edge 386 16MHz probably purchased around 1990, it came with 1 meg of RAM stock. A "budget" model but still probably cost them fortune, we were never exactly wealthy folks and a business-class 486 cost the better part of 10k then.   The secondhand modem I bought looked a lot like this:   <https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71vePa6mXgL._SL1500_.jpg>   but I think it was a generic "Hayes Compatible" model not a name brand.   We got a lot of life out of more or less the same rig though; the 386 with an extra meg of RAM and 56k modem from 1996 sometime ran Windows 3.1 fine and served as the household "email server" until they sold the home circa 2001

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Apr 06 02:25PM -0700 In article <acf85fb1-86c2-4217-b725-28ba24226c7e@googlegroups.com>, >put his name on the line, or can it be just in a company name. Same with >property. These are things I never found out because I never had any >reason to.   Depends on the type of business, I believe.   Corporations have standing to own property, as they are defined in law as something on the order of "artifical persons". The business can't hold a driver's license, though - the business itself can't drive the car - the operator has to be a human who is individually licensed. [And how this plays for "driverless cars" is complex, varies from place to place, and is far from settled. :-) ]   The same is true of some sorts of non-incorporated associations.   In the case of "limited liability partnerships" I don't know whether such a partnership owns property or not.   In the case of a "DBA" (Doing Business As, a.k.a. a "fictitious business"), no, I don't think so. The property is owned by the individual or family or other group who is doing business under a fictitious business name - the name is just a branding, to help deal with the public.     >way that facilitates your wishes in the matter. I have found employers >who simply pay cash so it is a moot point then anyway. No paper trail, >nothing happens.   Well, this all falls into the category of what I was referring to as "flying under the radar."   Yes, if you can arrange to work on a cash-only basis for your whole life, and never file anything, you may escape notice. If you _do_ get noticed, one way or another, they can still come after you for failing to pay taxes, though. (As I understand it, the IRS doesn't get you for "failing to file" - they get you for "failing to pay" or "filing a false statement").   I have to say I'm sceptical about the idea of somebody being able to earn six figures and evade detection through some sort of very complicated process.   > In >act, you can't be audited if you don't file.   You can't be audited (i.e. your filing can't be checked for errors, because you didn't file), but you still _can_ be charged with failing to pay the taxes you were due to pay. Different issue.   >jurisdiction to a private corporation, the IRS. Though chartered by the >government they are incorporated just like General Motors, no better no >worse.   This same "I didn't agree to it, I'm not bound by it, hence you don't have jurisdiction" argument is at the base of a whole lot of the Sovereign Citizen claims... and it keeps getting shot down.   >beat them, they do not like to publicize it. That is the same with any >court, if you make them fear public scrutiny on anything it works in >your favor.   That same argument can be made about almost _any_ claim... "they cover it up and hide their losses". Taken to extremes, it's at the core of about every crank conspiracy theory floating around the Net (or anywhere) these days... "Sure, there's nothing about this in the mainstream press... it's being covered up... see how effective the conspirators are!". Absence of evidence for the claim, is taken as proof of the claim.   >lost, but operating pro se he won the appeal. But that should have >happened the first time because unbeknownst to most people, if you win >the appeal you are still convicted.   Cite, please?   There are bunch of different meanings to "win an appeal". The appeal court may overturn the conviction entirely and dismiss the case, in which case the conviction "never happened". The appeal court may rule that the conviction was made in error, and remand the case back to the lower court to correct the error (in which case the case must be re-tried, or dismissed by the prosecution). The appeal court may rule that the _sentence_ was in error, and either adjust the sentence itself or remand the case back to the trial court for adjustment - in which case the conviction remains.   In some cases, judges go so far as to overturn a conviction with a "declaration of factual innocence", which is not just a "We don't think he was proven guilty" but "we are declaring that he was _not_ guilty." This tends to occur in cases where there was a serious miscarriage of justice in the prosecution of the original case.   > Actually the same is true of a >presidential pardon.   In that you're quite correct... there's good legal precedent that accepting a presidental (or governer's) pardon, consistitutes an admission of guilt on your part.   A person who has been convicted is _not_ obligated to accept a pardon. He/she can decline the pardon, and continue to pursue an appeal to overturn the conviction or gain a new trial... and if he/she has the conviction reversed on appeal, and isn't re-convicted in a second trial, then the "innocent until proven guilty" rule applies.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 06 03:52PM -0700 >"Corporations have standing to own property, as they are defined in law as something on the order of "artifical persons". The business can't hold a driver's license, though - the business itself can't drive the car - the operator has to be a human who is individually licensed."   I was thinking of something like that to avoid that "routine stop" bullshit which is a moneymaker for many small towns. In Ohio you can fight them because we have a law against using traffic laws for revenue. Typical residential is 35 MPH, if there are more than a certain number of businesses in a certain length of road then it is a 25 MPH. Densely populated areas of residential can be made 25 MPH locally. However they must be able to provide good reason. One of the things you do is to ask for the data from a traffic survey, that is one of the few forms of evidence the state will accept from a city that a lower speed limit is justified. Most of the time they just throw it out.   Source : A licensed lawyer in Ohio.   > "Sure, there's nothing about this in the mainstream press... it's being covered up"   All kinds of things are omitted by the media. One example is when Obama didn't act against Assad for using the gas. Well he didn't use the gas, at least that time. It was reported but not in many countries. So he was not being a wimp, he knew that his political enemies would disclose that Assad had not used the gas and use it against him. He did not reveal these facts for whatever reasin, probably political expediency.   Source ; Porton Down of Britain, Seymour Hersch.   >lost, but operating pro se he won the appeal. But that should have >happened the first time because unbeknownst to most people, if you win >the appeal you are still convicted.   Cite, please? "   Source : Public records. Seek and ye shall find.   >"There are bunch of different meanings to "win an appeal". "   True, I believe that when a conviction is ruled to be as if it never happened it is called "vacated". That is very rare.   Source : People who win their appeal yet are put on parole when released, that is in public records somewhere, shall I find it ?   The non-taxpayer issue was proven to me personally by examining the paperwork exchanged between a personal friend of mine and the IRS. He made about $ 300,000 a year as a construction contractor, brick and cement work. The IRS always knew right where he wss and never did a thing. He never saw the inside of a tax court.   He had to turn down jobs in certain cities because to get a contractor's permit he would have to sign that he would withhold city taxes and remit them, as well as supply the information on his employees. See, in this county they made a bog mess out of it, you must pay city taxes where you live AND work, AND if you work in several different cities like a contractor does, you must apportion the city taxes to each city in which any of your work was done and which employees worked on each particular job. So ion that case the source is me and unless you want to blatantly call me a liar I suggest you find a motive for it because I am not selling the plan or whatever. I don't WANT other people to know how to do it because it might just make them adapt and make it impossible. Note that non-taxpayer status can only apply to individuals. If you do business as a sole proprietor that works, but you can't incorporate. That means your personal property is on the line should something happen and you get sued. If you are bold and careful, do things right and don't get into a situation to get sued, think of making that $ 300,000 per year and not having to give away a third of it. Still, it is not for everyone. The guy has balls as big as churchbells.   So it is not a matter of operating under the RADAR, he had to take checks and deal with insurance companies all the time. Personally, I went under the RADAR a few times. Not that i have never paid taxes, I have paid quite a bit, but I got to the poit where I could tell an emploiyer "If uyou want taxes paid them you pay them". and indeed they did because what I made showed up in some form of income somewhere, so technically they got their money. Just not from me personally. But that is a completely different issue.   Actually between all the costs of hiring someone legit and not the ACA as well, you are going to see more and more people hired under the table. I believe there are already more than meet the eye. I know/have known people who do contracting work for cash only or personal checks, who never marry their olady and let her get welfare and free medical for the kids and bring their money home tax free, making for a much better life for their families than if they did it according to Hoyle so to speak. Imagine the kids, going to private school yet have free medical and poverty status. I could have collected while I was under the table but I didn't. I probably should've, why should I be more moral than the government ? They are about the fourth worst government in the world. Second among the ones considered civilized. Fukum. But I guess it was pride that prevented me from collecting. I could have had a free phone and free food at the very least and just about no chance of ever getting caught. But I didn't opt to do it.   SO I don't take these things likely and I certainly do not recommend them. There is risk and post people can't handle it. the people who beat the government spent years, literally, studying the law. I may have mentioned they hired an ex-law professor from Harvard. That was not cheap. They made tapes of his private lectures and I was tasked with re-equalizing them for better intelligibility, so I heard some of all this. I found it very interesting but some parts boring, but that is how it goes.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 06 06:06PM -0500 On 4/6/18 5:52 PM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:   [ snip ]   You're doing it again. Amateur radio licensing has NOTHING to do with you opinions on tax law.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 06 11:16AM -0500 On 4/6/18 10:41 AM, Ragnusen Ultred wrote: > *You are _Snit_, Fox Mercantile.*   BWahahaha, I'm not Snit, but you're still an asshole.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 06 04:51PM -0700 Well. some know that I am broke lately, but even when I was doing well I liked to hold on to money except for certain things.   So I have this printer. I bought it new, but then it was in not so friendly an environment. There were cigarette smokers, pot smokers and drug smokers around. Eventually the printing faded. I suspected maybe a HV problem or something because all colors were affected. It sat dormant for a time until I found a parts unit. I changed the HV board and whatnot, and finally the LASER assembly. That made it work. I took the original one apart and found that the spinning mirror was dirty as hell. All I would have had to do was clean it. So it is working, and I seriously do not remember going through an alignment procedure for registration. I have seen a bunch of color printers and generally they print a color page and you set values in software to make the colors align. More modern units that include a scanner sometimes do it themselves, just scan the test sheet you just printed and it makes a few noises and sets itself.   I do not remember doing any such thing with this printer, and when I first installed the LASER unit the registration was indeed off. But it did it itself. It was not long before it was in perfect registration. (I went on a beer run I think) I figure it must have sensors like a late model three tube rear projection TV with the "autoconverge" feature, though I saw no evidence of any sensors.   The issue now is one of toner. Following is what I have read about that :   They sell toner refill kits. Low toner is calculated by usage by a small chip on the cartridge. A new ("bootleg")chip is sold with the toner refill kit.   It somehow fools the machine into not knowing the toner is low. They said that you must change this chip before it runs completely out because somehow it knows in software that is was empty. By then it is too late. Not sure if I believe this but it is possible.   Now my machine is saying to buy cyan toner. I think it is in error because with the dirty mirror it should not have used as much as the usage should indicate. Right now the prints come out fine with perfect, deep color so it is not low enough to fade by any stretch.   The parts printer I got had toner cartridges in it and in fact I used the black already, no problem there. The guy must have changed it so it is probably not a "promotional" one that comes with it only half full so they can extract $ 70 each for them. All four add up to almost half the cost of the whole thing. (more than half of what I paid)   The parts printer had a bad (IIRC) "transfer belt" ? The rollers on the color toners are wrecked but the black is fine. I believe there was cat urine in that machine and that caused the problem.   So my thought is to take the cyan from the parts machine, put that chip in my cartridge with the good roller, and somehow extract the rest of the cyan toner to top it off.   I am looking for tips and tricks o how to do this. They have instructions but I think they come with the refill kit as I was unable to find it on the web. At least in the past. Someone may say it is available now and stick up a link, which I would appreciate, but that won't cover how to get the toner out of the other cartridge, which I would really like to do.   I also have some black Xerox copier toner which I am pretty sure can be used. Most of my printing is text in black so the first "bootleg" chip is most likely to go in the black so I can just throw in more toner as needed. If so it'll probably last longer than I do.   What am I wrong about and what am I right about ?   The other two printers in the house are inkjets with clogged heads due to non-use, one of them is a four ink type without the heads built into the cartridge. I am going to get the model number of that one, do a web search on the subject and try to clean the print head, but if that doesn't work I'll be back about it.   With these inkjet printers being practically disposable around here, any help in getting this LASER printer to be low maintenance is appreciated, so thanks in advance.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 06 08:24PM -0700 >With these inkjet printers being practically disposable around here, >any help in getting this LASER printer to be low maintenance is >appreciated, so thanks in advance.   I'll try to cover the low points of your stream of consciousness adventure in printer repair.   If you're looking for parts, the CP1215, CP1312, CP1515, CP1518, and CM1312 are all the same engine. Your CM1312 has the additional glass plate scanner/copier, but is otherwise similar internally.   I have a CP1518 in my office waiting for me to spend some time raising it from the dead. The previous owner ran about 60,000 pages through it in about 6 months. That produced enough wear on the plastic parts to have it stop printing. It looks new on the outside, but very worn on the inside. I would expect such a printer to last longer, but I guess that was only the old HP company.   Yes, the toner cart chip replacement works. I have had some defective chips, but they were quickly replaced by the vendor. I'll spare you my rant on refill, counterfeit, and profit protected toner carts.   Clone toner carts are cheap enough that I no longer refill the carts with toner. It's not the cost, but the mess that I usually make handling the old and new toner. Replacement carts are about $15/ea or $40 for set of 4 colors: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Color+LaserJet+CM1312+toner> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/162121265042>   The deterioration in print quality you described was probably dirty optics. With cigarette and recreational drug smog, it coats everything with a layer of brown tar. Just cleaning the optics isn't enough. The printer will get hot, the residue on other parts will volatize, and you'll soon get another layer of tar on the optics. I suggest painting the insides with alcohol until most of the residue is gone. Make sure you have a plastic catch basin to trap the dripping dirty alcohol. I've only done this once, and have refused to do it again. In the future, you might consider a plastic printer cover when it's not in use.   Most toner carts use an optical method of determining toner use. Also used are simply counting pages and declaring the toner out after some number of pages. Both are rather conservative and tend to indicate empty when there's plenty of toner left. I vaguely recall that there's a setting to ignore toner out indicator or something similar, that will let you run the carts until they are really out.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 06 08:57PM -0700 > What am I wrong about and what am I right about ?   > The other two printers in the house are inkjets with clogged heads due to non-use, one of them is a four ink type without the heads built into the cartridge. I am going to get the model number of that one, do a web search on the subject and try to clean the print head, but if that doesn't work I'll be back about it.   > With these inkjet printers being practically disposable around here, any help in getting this LASER printer to be low maintenance is appreciated, so thanks in advance.     Do yourself a favour and bin the inkjets. Once ink dries in the head they're usually a waste of time, and they'll only clog again. If you must play, try alcohol.   Opening the cart: is there really no youtube vid showing a refill/recon on your cart?     NT

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 06 11:45PM -0700 >"I'll try to cover the low points of your stream of consciousness adventure in printer repair"   LOL, I do appreciate that. (that thread I said there was nobody whose opinion I respect more, that was a mistake, I meant YOU)   >"I have a CP1518 in my office waiting for me to spend some time raising it from the dead. The previous owner ran about 60,000 pages through it in about 6 months. That produced enough wear on the plastic parts to have it stop printing. It looks new on the outside, but very worn on the inside. I would expect such a printer to last longer, but I guess that was only the old HP company. "   If you want, I have almost every part for the thing from the parts mule. I might just send them to you for shipping. I will never use the thing enough to wear it to that point. If you want to pay something fine, just charge the shit out of the customer of course. Whatever.   >"Yes, the toner cart chip replacement works. I have had some defective chips, but they were quickly replaced by the vendor. I'll spare you my rant on refill, counterfeit, and profit protected toner carts. "   Rant or not, I do hope it doesn't get on a moral train idolizing HP and their attempt to capture a market so they can gouge people. I know the rollers wear out but for one, how much ? And for two, form what I have seen of HP they don't give a flying shit about anything but money coming in, so do unto other as they do unto you. After paying $ 500 for this thing the least they could've done is give me full toner cartridges with it.   >"The deterioration in print quality you described was probably dirty optics."   I figured that out when I saw the rotating mirror. things have changed and them people are gone. I don't even smoke cigarettes now, and if I burn one it is out in the garage. but this does not wear the gears, so that offer it not all that bad. If you want I'll gather up everything and list it so you can decide what you want and not. Plus, all that stuff did not come from the printer I bought and used, it is from the parts printer.   >"I suggest painting the insides with alcohol until most of the residue is gone. Make sure you have a plastic catch basin to trap the dripping dirty alcohol."   I saw the innards, the nylon is still white, the grease where it is is good, I think the mirror somehow attracted that smog more than the other parts. And it wasn't that old when it was taken out of service. I thought it was running low on toner, but it wasn't.   >"I've only done this once, and have refused to do it again."   You should see some of the jobs I had to do. (not really) Bad enough cleaning capacitor crap, but sometimes there was roach and rodent feces, luckily not anything alive because they were careful about that. But it was still gross, and the PAID. I made them pay. I mean, I would wash my hand BEFORE taking a piss.   >"Most toner carts use an optical method of determining toner use."   That seems harder to implement than in an inkjet.   >"Also used are simply counting pages and declaring the toner out after some number of pages."   That is more profitable, so let's ponder just what a wonderful and benevolent company like HP would do... ... ... Done.   >"I vaguely recall that there's a setting to ignore toner out indicator or something similar, that will let you run the carts until they are really out. "   I says to buy cyan toner, it also says override in use. The two concerns are if it gets really out completely, will it stop completely ? When I unplugged the thing it wouldn't even scan so of course I cursed HP. (I worked on a couple of their scopes and they are as bad as Tek but without the good) apparently that was a different issue because now it works. It has been sitting for quite some time.   Will operating it completely out of cyan toner damage it in any way ? I don't see how but this is not my field of expertise. (to say the least) If it can tell which toners get used and I only print black and white, it should work forever right ? If so I can actually ignore the nag.   If that is the case I won't tamper with it at all. If it does run out, which I will see by the prints it makes, then I'll deal with it. That might be the best way to go.   Let me know if you want those gears and things. i cna gather up all the pieces parts and take some pictures. I might still have the whole side assembly with the gear train, but that might not fit a unit that is not all in one. I don't know. Just let me know.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 06 11:50PM -0700 >"Do yourself a favour and bin the inkjets. Once ink dries in the head they're usually a waste of time, and they'll only clog again. If you must play, try alcohol. "   I didn't buy them. It's family. I bought the LASER printer because of that after I went through a dozen inkjets or so. But they will not spend the money to print so rarely. they might end up either using mine or going to a retail place or library where they do that.   >"Opening the cart: is there really no youtube vid showing a refill/recon on your cart? "   I checked years ago and I couldn't find one. Maybe things have changed. Plus now I have the software to download it and not just from youtube.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Apr 06 10:26PM -0700 > >"I'm obviously late to this party but I found something that might help. The following link is to a manual for the Hitachi V-152F."   > Might help. Engineers to not reinvent the wheel for every different model.   > Why does that display like a Wordpress page when it is in Dropbox ?   It was programmed to. By you? Someone else? Malware?

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 06 11:13PM -0700 >"It was programmed to. By you? Someone else? Malware? "   You resurrected this thread to say that ? Are you like defective or something ? Why the fuck would I ask if I had programmed it ? And what malware in the world would do that ?   No wonder this world is so fucked up.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 06 09:59AM -0700 >Is it possible to mill out a bit of a groove in the broken area , to >allow thicker copper strip to be set in the then shallow groove of the pcb.   Good idea. However, I wouldn't do it just in the damaged area. With a thicker piece of PCB material, one could mill concentric slots (probably on a lathe or drill press). A copper or brass strip could be inserted in the slot and glued in place. Bending the rectangular strip would only work for a mounting it on edge, which might be a problem making contact with the Pogo contacts. Flat would be better, but that would require machining the circular contacts.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 06 06:53PM +0100 On 06/04/2018 17:59, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > strip would only work for a mounting it on edge, which might be a > problem making contact with the Pogo contacts. Flat would be better, > but that would require machining the circular contacts.   Worth having a go on some fresh pcb and copper. I forgot to say previously, assuming joining old and new co[per, scarfe the joins together.

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 06 08:34AM -0700 >a production machine that have to rotate thousand of times daily   >Thanks again >Diego De nada. Eric

OGER <OGER@NOWHERE.COM>: Apr 06 07:56PM -0700 Is there a simple, free way to detect if a CAT5 cable has an active internet.   The problem is that the two desktops running Windows 7 PRO do not show a direct CAT5 connection, they just show a WiFi connection. Plugging in the CAT5 cable does nothing.   Either something killed the desktops ability to access the CAT5 connections or the CAT5 cable is dead.   It is an AT&T FIOS WiFi router.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 06 08:50PM -0700 >Is there a simple, free way to detect if a CAT5 cable has an active >internet.   No. Nothing is simple.   >The problem is that the two desktops running Windows 7 PRO do not show a >direct CAT5 connection, they just show a WiFi connection. Plugging in >the CAT5 cable does nothing.   That's correct. Plugging just a CAT5 cable, with nothing connected to the other end, will not produce any form of connection indication. The cable needs to be terminated by the LAN jacks on your AT&T FIOS router. The AT&T router needs to be turned on and operating. You should also see the lights on the ethernet jacks at both ends light up when the cable is plugged in.   Once you get lights on the connectors, dive into Windoze 7 and see if it recognizes the ethernet connection. Make life easy for yourself and temporarily disable the wireless interface on the computah. Make sure that the ethernet interface is enabled.   Start -> All Programs -> Accessories Right click on "Command Prompt" and select "Run as Administrator"   Get a list of interface numbers, run: WMIC NIC GET NAME, INDEX On my Win 7 machine, my ethernet interface = 7 and my wireless = 12. Yours will be different. No need to type the command in caps. Lower case will work.   To disable the ethernet interface, run: WMIC PATH WIN32_NETWORKADAPTER WHERE INDEX=7 CALL DISABLE   To enable the ethernet interface, run: WMIC PATH WIN32_NETWORKADAPTER WHERE INDEX=7 CALL ENABLE   You should be able to see the effects of enable/disable with: IPCONFIG /ALL | MORE   If everything appears to be working, try to ping your router. The IP address of the router will be: IPCONFIG /ALL | find /I "Default Gateway" Then run: PING IP_ADDRESS_OF_DEFAULT_GATEWAY If you get a return, your computah can talk to the gateway.   If that works, the rest will be determining why your AT&T FIOS gateway isn't talking to the internet.   >Either something killed the desktops ability to access the CAT5 >connections or the CAT5 cable is dead.   Or, the CAT5 cable is miswired or a crossover cable. Or, there's a box between the computers and the router that you neglected to mention. If it's a home made cable, I would be rather suspicious of the cable.   >It is an AT&T FIOS WiFi router.   Model number?   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 06 10:24PM -0500 I have a clip on light that I want to use temporarily for light in a room I am redoing. The fixture has a dimmer on it, but I dont want to dim it, just leave it on full brightness.   Can I use a non-dimming LED bulb on this fixture as long as it's left on full brightness, or will the dimmer damage something just because it's there?   I've never used a dimmer on LED bulbs, so I am not sure. If it's a problem, I'll just use an incandescent bulb, since this is only for a few days anyhow, until I get some permanent lights installed in the room.   And just for the heck of knowing, what does happen if someone dims the non-dimming LED bulbs?

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Apr 06 08:45PM -0700 > in the room.   > And just for the heck of knowing, what does happen if someone dims the > non-dimming LED bulbs?   Probably no way to know. Symptoms vary from no light to flashing to works ok. I had one fixture that seemed to work, but kept blowing the LED every few weeks. Plug one in and try it. I've had some success putting a 4W night light in parallel with the LED. Just put an incandescent in it and get on with the project.

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