sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

reves.u@gmail.com: Feb 26 12:11AM -0800 Hello! Solenoid is fine; not sticking and energizes with external source. Needless to say MP feed won't pickup paper. Also the printer spits out a single blank paper from Tray 2 whenever powered. Any ideas?

Nife Sima <gorplop@sdf.org>: Feb 26 01:07PM +0100 > Hello! > Solenoid is fine; not sticking and energizes with external source. Needless to say MP feed won't pickup paper. Also the printer spits out a single blank paper from Tray 2 whenever powered. Any ideas?   Looks like it's confused about the paper sheet location, so to speak.   Check all limit switches and endstops (optical and mechanical)

reves.u@gmail.com: Feb 26 04:42AM -0800 Thank you for replying. Sensors seem to be okay. Also blank paper spitting is only at the time of powering on the printer, as if that makes any sense.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 26 07:39AM -0800 I will guess that there is a sensor jammed/clogged such that it believes there is something in the pathway that it tries to reject - spits out a piece of paper. When that sensor does not clear, it shuts down. Have you cleaned the optical sensors? Either 91% Isopropyl alcohol and a very soft cloth, or distilled water and that same cloth.   Paper dust is is a very real issue, especially on heavily used copiers. Best of luck with it.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

reves.u@gmail.com: Feb 26 08:24AM -0800 Thanks Wieck, for your insight. Optical sensors are clean, and no error code reported. Though MP feed solenoid won't energize thus no paper pickup from MP tray with error Tray 2 Jam error when print attempted with paper in Tray 1.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Feb 25 02:56PM -0800 On Tuesday, February 25, 2020 at 10:43:19 AM UTC-5, legg wrote: > disconnect the AC line and add a ground wire on the line > cord.   > . . . . of course it's still not CSA or UL.     When I started working in a TV shop in the mid '60s, every bench had a switch to shut off all power. It had two intended uses. A way to kill a bench if someone was being shocked or something was arching, and to turn off everything when the bench wasn't being used. They were mounted on the ends of the benches, where there was nothing to block access. My shop has each light fixture on its own switch, so all the tools and test equipment are powered down when I leave and turn out the lights. All of these are switched by the main door, so they are easy to get to.   This is similar to the General Electric switches we used back in the '60s. They can be padlocked if you don't want anyone to use the bench when you aren't there.   <https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-General-Duty-30-Amp-240-Volt-1-Pole-Fusible-Safety-Switch-with-Neutral-LF111N/205623361?mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT_DEVICES-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-CIRCUIT_PROTECT_DEVICES&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT_DEVICES-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-CIRCUIT_PROTECT_DEVICES-71700000033149223-58700003867184469-92700048703482864&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqNPyBRCjARIsAKA-WFzSjmPf4oH9mo9HqD0H-giB1l_uK4ZN43EVnuJb8xHeTP1UwiYu F7UaArVpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds>

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Feb 25 12:03PM -0800 Target 3001 https://server.ibfriedrich.com/wiki/ibfwikien/index.php/Reverse_Engineering has a facility that can help.   You start with an image of the board, Then add components to another layer and connect the components. The schematic then comes out as "rats nest" that you have to sort out.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 25 01:01PM -0800 On 2020/02/25 12:03 p.m., Ron D. wrote: > Target 3001 https://server.ibfriedrich.com/wiki/ibfwikien/index.php/Reverse_Engineering has a facility that can help.   > You start with an image of the board, Then add components to another layer and connect the components. The schematic then comes out as "rats nest" that you have to sort out.   It would appear that KiCAD is also a possibility for RE:   https://lists.launchpad.net/kicad-developers/msg07628.html   (I have Target 3001 as well)   John :-#)#

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 25 09:20AM -0800 a) If the landlord provides wiring that is/was to-code when installed. b) If the code states that a refrigerator should be on a dedicated circuit. c) If the tenant attempts to go around the original and proper installation and/or add additional load than just the refrigerator.   It is unlikely the landlord will get dinged 'if the building burns' - as the lawyers will go through the first-cause (you) first.   Line drop: is it 3 volts under load? Is it 3 volts in general? What gauge is the wire, and how long is the run? And are there any splices along that run? As an example, we have a 12-gauge, 20 A dedicated circuit to our refrigerator that is about 75' in developed length, no splices. Just for giggles, we have 118 V at the panel, line-to-ground, and 117 V at the receptacle, unloaded. And within the limits of measurement error anyway.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Feb 25 12:31PM -0600 On 2/25/2020 10:38 AM, Tom Del Rosso wrote:   >> Mikek   > Yeah, thanks, but I realize that. It's the landlord's fault if the > building burns. I have my own insurance. His might be cancelled.   Hope you're not sleeping if a fire starts! My problem really shook me, because of the way the wood was scorched inside the wall. If we had a hot night when the freezers had to run, a fire could have happened. It's a 45 year old house, hmm, it was only 20 years old when I moved in. Mikek

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Feb 25 12:45PM -0600 > Line drop: is it 3 volts under load? Is it 3 volts in general? What gauge is the wire, and how long is the run? And are there any splices along that run? As an example, we have a 12-gauge, 20 A dedicated circuit to our refrigerator that is about 75' in developed length, no splices. Just for giggles, we have 118 V at the panel, line-to-ground, and 117 V at the receptacle, unloaded. And within the limits of measurement error anyway.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   With a 10 Meg ohm DVM, That doesn't sound right. 150ft of #12 wire is 0.2382 ohms, add 0.1 ohms for the 4 connections and you have 0.3382 ohms, you would need 4.2 amps to drop 1 Volt. Are sure there is nothing else on that line?   Couple clarifications, What do you mean by developed? and line-to-ground? is it a two wire system? Line to ground, line to neutral should not be different, But... Mikek

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 25 11:00AM -0800 Developed length: The total amount of wire in the run. Not the direct distance between the panel and the receptacle, which is less than 60 feet.   Standard Hot/Neutral/Ground 12/2 Romex. And, as the Neutral and the Ground are bonded to the same buss-bar, the voltages are the same.   Consider a measuring device (voltmeter) - and it has a margin of error. Consider that at the panel, it is measuring at the bottom of the 118 V level, and at the receptacle, at the top of the 117 V level. That is what I mean by measurement error.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Feb 25 12:19PM -0500 > I have seen devices that require a thin tool inserted into the holes > (please, not when plugged in), to release internal tabs. Maybe that?   When I was a kid we had a vaporizer (humidifier that used electrodes in water inside a sealed container) that looked like it was designed in the 50's or early 60's. It had an excellent safety that required you to insert its own plug to unlock it to open for cleaning, and it locked the plug in place until you closed it.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.