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Ralph Phillips <ralphp@philent.biz>: Mar 30 11:53AM -0500 On 3/30/2021 10:21 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-Corduct-5-ft-1-Channel- > Over-Floor-Cord-Protector-Black-CDBK-5/205485211   > There are many variations of this.   To which I'd add the cheap version, Gaffer Tape.   (In a dire pinch, duck tape or even duct tape can be used ... )   RwP

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 30 10:57AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 30, 2021 at 10:43:07 AM UTC-4, Hem Jung wrote: > has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep it the way > it is. I see flat extension cords online, but price is too high. Maybe > I could make one? Thanks in advance.   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cordinate-10-ft-Tan-PVC-Cord-Cover-43002/203716817?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-203716817-_-N   here is a 10-foot (3 meter) version, and for outdoor use:   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Guardian-2-Channel-Drop-Over-Cable-Protector-Ramp-for-1-375-in-Dia-Cables-DH-CR-5/313246197   And, there are always these:   https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Hubbell-Rf151Dtr-15A-125V-Brs-Floor-Box/6159433?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmIuDBhDXARIsAFITC_51myvH7a21kPkPQ3sYCF5Ufp4EaIWFHsGLCXvf1oZ9UwnYQho4sWMaAlhqEALw_wcB   And for the well-heeled, needing flexibility:   https://www.grainger.com/product/14N918?ef_id=Cj0KCQjwmIuDBhDXARIsAFITC_5OY0fCXlVrmKLTcssTWf0bmVo-wlbPkuKjG0tVISzS0zDU8qNRZSoaAoWvEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275255!!!g!471571925921!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmIuDBhDXARIsAFITC_5OY0fCXlVrmKLTcssTWf0bmVo-wlbPkuKjG0tVISzS0zDU8qNRZSoaAoWvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds   We use a lot of the last for the mechanics. Good stuff!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Rich <rich@example.invalid>: Mar 30 06:13PM > My foot has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep > it the way it is. I see flat extension cords online, but price is > too high. Maybe I could make one? Thanks in advance.   You don't state your location, but do note that at least in the USA, it is a violation of the electrical code to utilize an extension cord as a substitute for permanent wiring. So, if you are in the USA, and if this is a temporary thing, you'll be ok. But if are in the USA and you might plan to make this permanent you will fail a future electrical inspection should one occur.

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Mar 30 05:28PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 30 Mar 2021 10:43:04 -0400, Hem Jung   >Just had to power something pretty far away from the outlet and had to >use a standard extension cord. Since this goes across the floor, I'm >wondering if there's anything I can do to make this anti-trip? My foot   Put a rug over it. Even magazines or those large padded shipping envelopes will work in a pinch.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 30 07:01PM -0400 >has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep it the way >it is. I see flat extension cords online, but price is too high. Maybe >I could make one? Thanks in advance.   I sometimes run temporary cabling above human traffic, but never anything carrying line power - There are permanent wall/cieling outlets in the lab.   For short periods, I've run flexible power cable on the floor, fixed into position at right angles to traffic by hazard tape.   For anything permanent, get the proper wiring done.   RL

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Mar 31 08:37AM > this is a temporary thing, you'll be ok. But if are in the USA and you > might plan to make this permanent you will fail a future electrical > inspection should one occur.   Strange that such a statement would be in the code. Nothing is permanent.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 31 04:30AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 30, 2021 at 5:28:38 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:   > Put a rug over it. Even magazines or those large padded shipping > envelopes will work in a pinch.   This has to be one of the most insane pieces of advice ever given - excepting those from Jimmy Neutron. This approaches the quality of advice around using aluminum cans to cover holes in an automotive firewall.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 31 08:43AM -0400 >> might plan to make this permanent you will fail a future electrical >> inspection should one occur.   >Strange that such a statement would be in the code. Nothing is permanent.   Have you read your local/national electrical code?   How about the warning tag on your last purchased extension cord?   RL

Bill Gill <billnews2@cox.net>: Mar 31 08:13AM -0500 On 3/30/2021 9:43 AM, Hem Jung wrote: > has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep it the way > it is.  I see flat extension cords online, but price is too high.  Maybe > I could make one?  Thanks in advance.   For short term use when I was displaying my book scanner at the Tulsa Maker Faire, a one day event, I plugged the extension cord into the provided in-the-floor outlet and then taped it to the floor. Gaffer tape is preferred, but duct tape or even masking tape will do.   Bill

Rich <rich@example.invalid>: Mar 31 01:48PM >> future electrical inspection should one occur.   > Strange that such a statement would be in the code. Nothing is > permanent.   https://www.memic.com/workplace-safety/safety-net-blog/2020/august/extension-attention---avoiding-extension-cord-hazards   National Electrical Code (NEC) does not allow extension cords in lieu of permanent wiring (NEC 400.8(1) - 2014 Version).   https://www.thebuildingcodeforum.com/forum/threads/nj-nec-400-8.5437/   Article 400   Flexible Cords and Cables   400.8 Uses Not Permitted. Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following:   (1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure   (2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors   (3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings   (4) Where attached to building surfaces   Exception to (4): Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of 368.56(B)   (5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or dropped ceilings   (6) Where installed in raceways, except as otherwise permitted in this Code   (7) Where subject to physical damage

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Mar 31 02:53PM +0100 >has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep it the way >it is. I see flat extension cords online, but price is too high. Maybe >I could make one? Thanks in advance.   I have seen flat mains extension cable for under carpets at £69 a meter. I wouldn't trust it with powered carpet tacking tools.   Steve -- http://www.npsnn.com

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Mar 31 02:34PM > (6) Where installed in raceways, except as otherwise permitted in > this Code   > (7) Where subject to physical damage   Ok the second one refers to "fixed" and elaborates that use cases where it would be like the fixed wiring are not permitted, that is reasonable.   The first one probably should have read "in lieu of fixed wiring".

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Mar 31 02:36PM >>Strange that such a statement would be in the code. Nothing is permanent.   > Have you read your local/national electrical code?   > How about the warning tag on your last purchased extension cord?   I have not purchased extension cords for several decades, but one that I have here does not mention that, it only mentions that it should only be used unrolled.   Of course I understand the use cases for extension cords, but I think the use of the word "permanent" is strange and vague, because nothing is ever permanent, and temporary solutions often last a long time (longer than some permanent ones!)

Rich <rich@example.invalid>: Mar 31 02:58PM > where it would be like the fixed wiring are not permitted, that is > reasonable.   > The first one probably should have read "in lieu of fixed wiring".   Yes, "in lieu of fixed wiring" would have used the wording from the NEC section.   Instead, it was using the "not easily removed" sub-definition of "permanant" (item 2(a) at the URL below):   https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/permanent

jaugustine@verizon.net: Mar 31 07:30AM -0500 Hi,   I have a few old VCRs. I use one with my new UHD 49" Samsung TV that has NO AV input.   I bought a AV to HDMI converter from Amazon.   ISSUE:   Sometimes, when I switch the source to the HDMI with the VCR (HDMI converter) to watch a tape, the picture has poor contrast when I play a tape. Note: At first, there is NOISE due to the VCR's analog tuner.   SOLUTION:   Change the VCR's signal source from it's tuner to AV. I have a Comcast cable converter with AV output. I use a short cable from the converter's video output to the VCR's video input.   John

bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Mar 31 02:47AM > Speed Queen still makes a commercial quality washer available to consumers. It costs more, a lot more, but sometimes you get what you pay for.   I _really_ hope that's true, because I ended up buying a Speed Queen. Whether I fell for the hype or made a good choice will take a long time to learn. Price was roughly the same from the local dealer as for an on line purchase, the dealer has a parts and service department that maybe will be helpful. For even money, I went local.   > The best way to have clothes last longer while still getting them clean is supposed to be cold water, long presoak, and short wash cycle.   I'd suggest that tumble drying is a major source of wear; just look in the lint trap. A short wash cycle won't hurt, if it gets things clean enough. On that basis I elected to keep the old dryer, which is almost never used, and spend the savings on a better washing machine.   The service manual question is still unresolved. I did notice that Dexter Laundry puts their manuals on-line gratis, but they don't have much of a dealer network and the machines are rather large. If there's need, maybe my dealer's service department will help.   Thanks to everybody who replied, this was a most interesting thread!   bob prohaska

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Hem Jung <hemjA@netco.net>: Mar 30 10:43AM -0400 Just had to power something pretty far away from the outlet and had to use a standard extension cord. Since this goes across the floor, I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to make this anti-trip? My foot has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep it the way it is. I see flat extension cords online, but price is too high. Maybe I could make one? Thanks in advance.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Mar 30 11:21AM -0400 In article <s3vddo$gnt$1@dont-email.me>, hemjA@netco.net says... > has caught it a couple of times, so not very good if I keep it the way > it is. I see flat extension cords online, but price is too high. Maybe > I could make one? Thanks in advance.   Have you seen the floor protectors ? Rubber pieces that are a few inches wide that the cord goes under ?   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-Corduct-5-ft-1-Channel- Over-Floor-Cord-Protector-Black-CDBK-5/205485211   There are many variations of this.

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Mar 29 05:26PM -0400 Mike Coon wrote:   > Ah, maybe the pigeon shit angle is a physics equivalent of an urban > myth. I believe it was the temperature spectrum of the radiation that > had to be determined, but I may actually read that article...   The excess noise measurement came first. Then Penzias and Wilson started looking for any possible terrestrial noise sources. Bird droppings are a lossy dielectric among their other less pleasant properties, so P&W cleaned their horn antenna carefully, calibrated the receiver, and so on, but the noise was still there.   There's still science today that's done that carefully, but I fear it has gotten a lot less common. (Certainly the quality of papers I get sent to review has tanked in the last 25 years or so--and yes, it's the same journals.)   Cheers   Phil Hobbs

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Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 08:44PM > Plus it must have a mu-metal shield on the tube.   > I was able to buy a spare, internal graticule, PDA CRT for it for under $200 - beautiful thing. > Eats the Rigol for breakfast for what I do.   nice. How rare/common is the fancy shielding on a scope? I don't travel with a scope so it's never been an issue for me.   A friend just got his first scope, some sort of mid 1980s Kenwood. He emailed kenwood in japan and they send a scan of the manual. Sort of jealous of it in fact.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 28 02:28PM -0700 Cydrome Leader wrote: ====================   > > I was able to buy a spare, internal graticule, PDA CRT for it for under $200 - beautiful thing. > > Eats the Rigol for breakfast for what I do.   > nice. How rare/common is the fancy shielding on a scope?   ** Low cost, Asian CRT scopes are unshielded. Everything else pretty much is.     > I don't travel with a scope so it's never been an issue for me.   ** Got nothing to do with travelling.   > A friend just got his first scope, some sort of mid 1980s Kenwood. He > emailed kenwood in japan and they send a scan of the manual. Sort of > jealous of it in fact.   ** Likely has no mag shielding.   Be a real PITA if you locate a mains transformer anywhere near the tube. Such scopes must be sited well away from the work bench and other items of test gear.   Or else the trace shimmers horribly at 50/60 Hz. Major scam, IMO.     ..... Phil

Bennett Price <bjprice@cal.berkeley.edu>: Mar 28 09:51AM -0700 On 3/23/2021 5:55 PM, bob prohaska wrote: > manufacturer's websites.   > Thanks for reading,   > bob prohaska   In re: Service / Shop Manuals To service an old Kenmore top loader that was completely dead, I searched for shop manuals as I wanted the schematic. Was able to find one for $10. But I decided to first open up the control panel and take a look.   Inside was a printed manual with schematic, timing diagrams, diagnostics for some of the controls, etc. Additionally, in tiny print a schematic was pasted to the inside rear of the control panel.   Turned out the wall socket, which I should have checked first, was dead and the washing machine was fine.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 08:51PM > was pasted to the inside rear of the control panel.   > Turned out the wall socket, which I should have checked first, was dead > and the washing machine was fine.   Even if the fault was inside the unit, you'd likely be able to easily fix the thing due to good documentation and parts supply.   I just looked at an LG electric oven service manual. It goes on and on about all the places the solder connections will crack. It's sort of sad actually. The guide is clearly written to satisfy quick and dirty warranty repairs.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 28 10:29AM -0700 On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 01:13:16 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:   >How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   >1) Laptop power supplies, when the laptop is not on? Is it different >when the laptop is disconnected?   Using my P4460 Kill-a-watt meter, I tried a mixed collection of laptops and power supplies. Since the laptop is charging the battery while it is turned off, and I didn't want to wait for the battery to come to full charge, I simply removed the battery where possible:   Acer Chromebook 14 PS only 0 watts PS with laptop turned off 0 watts   HP Pavilion dv8263dl PS only 0 watts PS with laptop turned off 3 watts HP Pavilion dv6-1253cl PS only 0 watts PS with laptop turned off 0 watts     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Mar 28 09:46AM -0700 On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 4:16:29 AM UTC-7, Peter W. wrote:   > For those of us who have the awful habit of restoring vintage equipment with non-polarized convenience receptacles and who often have a hard time finding replacements - These fit Dynaco and similar products.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Good find! I haven't seen those in years. I forgot about Philmore making them.

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"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 28 04:16AM -0700 https://www.unicornelex.com/Non_Polarized_Chassis_Mount_AC_Power_Receptacle_p/36-3800.htm   Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, and children of all ages:   For those of us who have the awful habit of restoring vintage equipment with non-polarized convenience receptacles and who often have a hard time finding replacements - These fit Dynaco and similar products.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Mar 28 01:13AM -0400 I'd appreciate it any replies went to all three groups that this is posted to so I don't have to read all three to see all the replies. When I started in Usenet, that was considered the proper way.     How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   1) Laptop power supplies, when the laptop is not on? Is it different when the laptop is disconnected?   2) Automobile Quick Charge 3.0 ports? My car is old so I have to add one, like this one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088HJPK7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3IBRCMNGJUPVG&psc=1 Some come with a switch in them and some don't. I picked this one 'cause it has a 1.1" hole saw, not for the switch. I suppose some new cars come with QC 3.0 installed?   3) Radios, that have an on/off switch but the switch is not in the 110v. line. It's somewhere in the transistor circuitry, after the radio's power supply? Why don't they put the switch on the 110 volts?   4) Same question about TV's but since they are bigger, do they waste even more? If they have to use a relay, they could use a relay. (Yes, I agree that the remote control receiver has to be on all the time, but I don't consider that a waste. It could be the only part that is on.)   5) What have I left out? Especially something that is different in nature from the previous 4.     WRT 1, I've noticed that the black box that's part of the charging cable is not hot, not even warm afaict, when I'm not charging anything. Does that imply I'm not using much current? That I'm using no current?   WRT 2, cars, doesn't the alternator put out loads of extra electricity anyhow except that there is a regulator to stop that. If the charger I'm asking about or the lights or any accesorry (even maybe the heater fan) is using electricity, does it make the engine work harder? Is the amount significant? How many gallons an hour do all the accesories together use? Is the amount the engine would have to work to power a charger that's not charging anything even measurable with other than a galvanometer**? ** wikip doesn't say this but I was led to believe a galvanometer is an ammeter for very small currents. Was that true? Is it still? Anyhow, that's what I mean in the previous paragraph.

"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:31PM +1100 micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote   > When I started in Usenet, that was considered the proper way.     > How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   > 1) Laptop power supplies, when the laptop is not on?   What the battery needs charging wise.   > Is it different when the laptop is disconnected?   Yes, very little power is taken with a modern very small switching power supply/charger.   > 2) Automobile Quick Charge 3.0 ports? > My car is old so I have to add one, like this one, > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088HJPK7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3IBRCMNGJUPVG&psc=1   Same as the laptop.     > 3) Radios, that have an on/off switch but the switch is > not in the 110v. line. It's somewhere in the transistor > circuitry, after the radio's power supply?   It doesn't actually switch anything, it tells the radio to turn off.   How much power it takes when off varys with the design.   > Why don't they put the switch on the 110 volts?   Because the other switch is cheaper.   > 4) Same question about TV's but since > they are bigger, do they waste even more?   Yep, the worst designs can be quite bad.   > If they have to use a relay, they could use a relay. (Yes, I agree > that the remote control receiver has to be on all the time, but > I don't consider that a waste. It could be the only part that is on.)   Yes with the best designs. But some of the smart ones allow the firmware to be remotely updated so that still needs to be active to know when to do that.   > 5) What have I left out?   Everything appliance wise except the most primitive now.   > Especially something that is different in nature from the previous 4.   You can get power meters very cheaply.   > WRT 1, I've noticed that the black box that's part of the charging > cable is not hot, not even warm afaict, when I'm not charging > anything. Does that imply I'm not using much current?   Yes.   > That I'm using no current?   Nope, its never literally zero.   > WRT 2, cars, doesn't the alternator put out loads of extra > electricity anyhow except that there is a regulator to stop that.   There always is a regulator.   > If the charger I'm asking about or the lights or any > accesorry (even maybe the heater fan) is using > electricity, does it make the engine work harder?   Yep. But it isnt a fan heater in car.   > Is the amount significant?   Nope.   > How many gallons an hour do all the accesories together use?   Bugger all.   > Is the amount the engine would have to work to power > a charger that's not charging anything even measurable > with other than a galvanometer**?   It is measurable with a power meter.   > ** wikip doesn't say this but I was led to believe a galvanometer > is an ammeter for very small currents. Was that true?   Yes.   > Is it still?   Nope, we do it electronically now.

Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Mar 28 10:56AM +0200 On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 17:31:12 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:   <FLUSH more of the trolling senile asshole's always predictable trollshit>   -- dennis@home to know-it-all Rodent Speed: "You really should stop commenting on things you know nothing about." Message-ID: <pCVTC.283711$%L2.214599@fx40.am4>

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 28 02:05AM -0700 Peeler wrote: ============= > On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 17:31:12 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent > Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:   ** OH - so you know Rod fairly well then ...   > <FLUSH more of the trolling senile asshole's always predictable trollshit>   ** Must use that one, myself.     ..... Phil

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 28 10:37AM +0100 On 28/03/2021 06:13, micky wrote:   > I'd appreciate it any replies went to all three groups that this is > posted to so I don't have to read all three to see all the replies. > When I started in Usenet, that was considered the proper way.   Yup - and *much* preference to multiposting. Cross-posting to completely different or trophy groups was the annoyance, mostly done by trolls.     > How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   It's less than the electricity used when they are in use ;-)   However less - this depends on age, construction, type, and how much power/cost you believe is significant.   Find yourself an AC plugin power meter and measure?   There are other metering methods for non-AC classes of equipment, a clamp meter is a non-invasive measurer of current (and them hall-types that also measure DC current are pretty useful in cars).   -- Adrian C

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Mar 27 10:20AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 8:55:39 PM UTC-4, bob prohaska wrote: > manufacturer's websites.   > Thanks for reading,   > bob prohaska +1 on avoid the Korean brands for washers, dryers, and fridges. It used to be that sears/kenmore were built by Whirpool (for the most part). A recent investigation for a new fridge revealed it was made by a little known second tier Korean mfg (can't remember the name). Googling 'who makes sears appliance xxxx' will turn up a cross reference sheet of sears numbers to their manufactures but take it with a grain of salt as sears changes suppliers and it may not always reflect the current mfg.   I suggest spending time doing searches of '''the brand you are interested in' problems" This will usually turn up types of problems for each mfg appliance. After you get enough input, you can decide what mfg and probability and types of failures you think you want to take a chance on. My experience in both living with and repairing washers and electric dryers, my suggestions are Kenmore (if you are OK with who makes it) GE, and Maytag. The electronic control modules of 5-8 years ago were somewhat repairable depending on the failure. In almost all cases that I've seen, the cost of the control module varies from ~ $130 USD to $200. A bit ridicules for what is in there, IMHO. Throw in $100 for a repair call and just about any repair is half the cost of a new machine.   For what ever reason, the cost of GE replacement parts seem abnormally high with a wide price variability, depending on the outlet. Caveat: My sample size is from maintaining my family and some relatives machines over the last 15 years (so its small) - its not that I have a full time appliance repair biz. You may want to check out Consumer report ratings for estimated reliability which is based on historical data they have. Recent attempts to buy both a fridge and washing machine showed lead times of 3-4 months for certain brands and styles. They all blame COVID. Bigbox stores had low/bad inventory as compared to local appliance stores, but they were all saying longer delays than normal good luck J

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Mar 27 10:26AM -0700 On Thursday, March 25, 2021 at 1:01:25 PM UTC-4, bob prohaska wrote: > I take it nobody has had much success obtaining service manuals? > Thanks for reading,   > bob prohaska   My experience is FSMs are almost impossible to come by unless you are 'in the biz'. Many of the online part suppliers have diagnostic guidance for machines in general, and some provide specific mfg/model help. You tube postings can be useful....they tend to post about failure modes that are common, such as ' relay solder joints that melt away because of high current through a contact'.... Good luck J

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Mar 27 02:45PM -0500 Three Jeeps wrote:     > For what ever reason, the cost of GE replacement parts seem abnormally > high with a wide price variability, depending on the outlet. Yes, I should have mentioned before that Marcone is a great resource, they have parts for LOTS of old appliances, and the price is usually reasonable.   They are a chain of warehouses across the US, and are glad to sell to individuals.   Jon

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 04:54AM > that I already knew more about it than he did. It has some diagnostic > procedures you get into by holding down three buttons at once. Quite > helpful to figure out what is wrong.   This. Do not buy foreign made appliances. No parts, no support. Make note that the GE name was sold to the chi-coms and if the product was not made in the US, good luck.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 05:34AM > general contention is that if an appliance makes it through its first > two years, then it is not a lemon. Excepting that generation of LG > appliances that rust badly, of course.   bullshit.   30 years out of an italian designed/ made dishwasher? no fucking way, not even in a musueum. 2 years, maybe, if you replace all parts every year.   Refrigerators are the machines that need the least maintance of anything with moving parts and even the 10 years is a good run these days. Hell, many don't even make it that far before they have problems with freezing up and condensation/pissing all over the floor. This garbage design is no accident.   Residential gas furnaces are usually pretty fixable. Just wait until AC/inverter drive blower motors start to become common though.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 05:36AM > My fear with the modern versions is that with all the electronic controls they become vulnerable to power supply glitches.   > Speed Queen still makes a commercial quality washer available to consumers. It costs more, a lot more, but sometimes you get what you pay for.   > The best way to have clothes last longer while still getting them clean is supposed to be cold water, long presoak, and short wash cycle.   The dryer is where clothes fall apart. Air dry, if you can. Just check how much lint collects on a dryer screen vs. sock on the washing machine discharge hose.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 04:46AM > ...... Phil   There's definitely places making fake STK modules as well as audio ICs for arcade machines. You can bing for some amusing photos.

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Mar 27 03:45PM -0400 Phil Allison wrote:   > ** BNC plugs are metal and so are accessory connectors on the front > and back.   I get the point. Maybe not a problem with a single channel battery scope.

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Mar 27 04:04PM -0400 > Enough for now. just find transformers at least six amps with > secondaries adding up to the line voltage. Cheapest and easiest way.   Interesting...thanks.     -- Defund the Thought Police

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 27 02:21PM -0700 Tom Del Rosso wrote:   ================== > > and back.   > I get the point. Maybe not a problem with a single channel battery > scope.   ** Like multimeter style scopes?   Hate them.     ..... Phil

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 04:22AM > http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/B.W.D/bwd_821_001.pdf   > In 34 years of daily use, I have replaced 1 open 22kohm resistor and 1 pull switch mini pot.   > ..... Phil   but, but but, it's not capable of 3Ghz and sampling. It must be a useless instrument.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 27 09:39PM -0700 Cydrome Leader wrote:   ===================   > > In 34 years of daily use, I have replaced 1 open 22kohm resistor and 1 pull switch mini pot.   > but, but but, it's not capable of 3Ghz and sampling. It must be a useless > instrument.   ** Very true.....   But I needed a scope for knock down, drag out service work on all kinds of items from tube amps to 2kW SMPSs to 1kW linear mosfet power amplifiers. Plus all the small stuff like condensor mics. Plus I needed to be able to service it myself with readily available spares. Plus it must have a mu-metal shield on the tube.   I was able to buy a spare, internal graticule, PDA CRT for it for under $200 - beautiful thing. Eats the Rigol for breakfast for what I do.     ...... Phil

Hem Jung <hemjA@netco.net>: Mar 27 07:04PM -0400 Five years ago, I acquired a nice used HP DV5 laptop. Only problem is that after only running for a short time, it slows almost to the point of a crawl in speed. At first I didn't know what the reason was, but then I discovered that if I aimed a small fan at it, the problem went away. So a couple of years back, I used it for days to help nuke some hard drives that were being disposed of with no issues. Now I want to bring it out for a long term data logging project. I suppose I could put a fan on it again, but trying to cut back on electricity and also there must be a better way. Any ideas would be welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 28 08:33AM +0800 On 28/03/2021 7:04 am, Hem Jung wrote: > put a fan on it again, but trying to cut back on electricity and also > there must be a better way.  Any ideas would be welcome and appreciated. > Thanks in advance.   Have you checked the cpu fan for fluff etc ?

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 27 08:29PM In article <s3lkls$pml$1@dont-email.me>, fizzbintuesday@that-google- mail-domain.com says...   > That doesn't mention pigeons or birds. I vaguely remember there was a > connection to the need to clean out the horns, but it would seem to be > irrelevant since they would have detected the radiation anyway.   Ah, maybe the pigeon shit angle is a physics equivalent of an urban myth. I believe it was the temperature spectrum of the radiation that had to be determined, but I may actually read that article...

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Mar 27 09:46AM -0700 On Saturday, March 27, 2021 at 1:35:46 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > but am no expert on these units.   > Thanks!   > John :-#)# There is a tekscopes forum that I hang out in that can be very helpful. https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/ Suggest you post there as well. Good luck J

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 27 11:35AM -0700 On Saturday, March 27, 2021 at 12:27:09 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:   > Thanks!   > John :-#)#   > --   I have the serv manual if he ever needs anything scanned from it. In the meantime, he can always pick up a small scrapped LCD TV. Thes use external polarizer sheets that can be cut to fit.

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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 26 10:34PM -0700 A friend of mine in AU just asked me about   "Tektronix THS720 handheld digital oscilloscope. As you can see in the attached photo, the LCD module is starting to go bad. Research indicates that the problem is likely due to the polarizer films deteriorating, and they can be replaced"   Anyone have any other suggestions? The image in the photo showed a clear image, just fading on part of it. I suggested the inverter be checked, but am no expert on these units.   Thanks!   John :-#)#

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 27 07:44AM -0700 On Saturday, March 27, 2021 at 1:35:46 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > but am no expert on these units.   > Thanks!   > John :-#)#   Any way to post a pic John? I have that model and would be interested in seeing the issue.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 27 09:27AM -0700 >> Thanks!   >> John :-#)#   > Any way to post a pic John? I have that model and would be interested in seeing the issue.   Yes, of course - here is a link to the image he sent me.   https://www.flippers.com/images/delete/Tektronix_THS270.JPG   I'm sure he will appreciate any advice, he replied to me:   "Yes the display is illuminated by a small Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp which is working normally. The problem is that the centre area of the display is going darker and darker while the perimeter is still OK.   I'll keep looking for info about polarizer film...."   Thanks!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Mar 26 05:51PM -0400 Why is it still necessary to worry about probing a floating ground?   Most digital scopes have power requirements like high-end laptops, so why can't they have a battery option?   They all have plastic cases, so why can't they have isolated supplies and no earth connection?     -- Defund the Thought Police

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 26 04:56PM -0500 On 3/26/21 4:51 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote: > They all have plastic cases, so why can't they have isolated supplies > and no earth connection?   Because ungrounded equipment is always a bad idea.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 26 03:14PM -0700 Tom Del Rosso wrote: ====================== > Why is it still necessary to worry about probing a floating ground?   ** Errr - user safety ?   > Most digital scopes have power requirements like high-end laptops, so > why can't they have a battery option?   ** Battery scopes are potentially lethal.   > They all have plastic cases, so why can't they have isolated supplies > and no earth connection?   ** BNC plugs are metal and so are accessory connectors on the front and back.   FYI   My 1987 analogue scope ( 10x8 cm, 50MHz, dual trace) draws the same power as my 1052E   ..... Phil

RosemontCrest <rosemontcrestwinery@post.com>: Mar 26 05:38PM -0700 On 3/26/2021 2:51 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote: > why can't they have a battery option?   > They all have plastic cases, so why can't they have isolated supplies > and no earth connection?   I believe that Tektronix still offers the TPS2000 Series.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 26 07:43PM -0700 Phil Allison wrote: ====================== > FYI   > My 1987 analogue scope ( 10x8 cm, 50MHz, dual trace) draws the same power as my 1052E   ** Just rechecked, the Rigol uses 18W and the trusty BWD 825 only 15.   It don't need a noisy fan either.     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 26 07:45PM -0700 RosemontCrest wrote: --------------------------------------   > > They all have plastic cases, so why can't they have isolated supplies > > and no earth connection? > I believe that Tektronix still offers the TPS2000 Series.   ** Not the same idea and very exxe.   Float the DUT - not the damn scope.     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 26 10:08PM -0700 Phil Allison wrote: ================   > > My 1987 analogue scope ( 10x8 cm, 50MHz, dual trace) draws the same power as my 1052E   > ** Just rechecked, the Rigol uses 18W and the trusty BWD 825 only 15.   ** Bugger - its a BWD 821   http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/B.W.D/bwd_821_001.pdf   In 34 years of daily use, I have replaced 1 open 22kohm resistor and 1 pull switch mini pot.     ..... Phil

"jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Mar 26 10:31PM -0700 Well for one I think it voids most scope warranties.   Now look, floating the DUT makes much more sense, there are very very few instances where you have to create that hazard, and anywhere civilized with regulations on this shit will require your area to be cordoned off so people cannot wander in. Grounds can be a very complex topic.   Now one thing, if you find two 100WPC amps that are really fried out you can probably make an nice isolation transformer out of them. the voltage might not be perfect but god enough for testing.   Some people may disagree here, but once you re out of the hot side you no longer need the isolation. for example I am working on a Crown and it has a SMPS power supply. I have to fix that. then Iher a something little wrong in it and now I am working on the cold side. now as long as you have your wits, and are not going to fsall and drown in a bowl of soup (Mary Hartski) you know where the hot side is, if not forget working on this shit. Where the cord goes ??? MAYBE ?   I was working at a place, cement floor and on BIG TVs, many ties working on the floor. Well shit happened and I made them get an isolation transformer. "You get a isolation transformer in here NOW. WHY ? If you don't I am going down to the hospital after a shock and claim I can never work in my field again for fear and sue you for every fucking thing you got, BECAUSE YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO HAVE ONE !". Two days.   Th only time you really have to float the scope, and there are, if you are in an industrial setting working on ike Fanuc or some type of NC or CNC, or on something in the plant like some thing that controls motors n shit. the need COULD arise. But you are not doing that. If you were you would not be here asking.   In any unit you ever work on, of course if you have to work on the hot side get the transformer. And you make sure you know where the hot side is inside.   Enough for now. just find transformers at least six amps with secondaries adding up to the line voltage. Cheapest and easiest way.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 27 08:51AM -0400 On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 17:51:59 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso" >why can't they have a battery option?   >They all have plastic cases, so why can't they have isolated supplies >and no earth connection?   There are scopes with battery power. I bought the Owon DS8202 for that reason, along with good memory depth.   It's just one way of increasing measurement flexibility and of monitoring ground loop effects, but requires care in use. Even low voltage circuits can present energy hazards to technicians and their test equipment.   For AC measurements, ground is everywhere, so your isolation should be limited to low frequency nodes.   Can't say much for the scope - it has the usual triggering and noise issues as most of the present digital offerings.   The battery can be expected to last ~3yrs. I refurbed the pack using cells from offshore and added a balancing circuit. Hopefully this will increase their lifetime.   There are "handheld" scopes with internal batteries as well (Wave2). These can make low-frequency monitoring a bit less invasive and replace expensive differential probes, in some applications.   Holding them in any energised circuit application is not advised.   You need internal waveform memory to save data, if you want to process it on a grounded PC, later.   RL       RL

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Mar 26 05:45PM -0400 Mike Coon wrote:   > But then pigeon shit on the antenna might lead to discovering Cosmic > microwave background radiation > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmic_microwave_background ...   That doesn't mention pigeons or birds. I vaguely remember there was a connection to the need to clean out the horns, but it would seem to be irrelevant since they would have detected the radiation anyway.     -- Defund the Thought Police

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